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| Lazarus; 1996 1.3...no longer an auto, now a manual, wait no it's an auto. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 12 2014, 12:35 PM (10,030 Views) | |
| M4tthewd | Feb 2 2015, 09:15 PM Post #76 |
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Matt
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So I was wondering if the 5 speed transmission from this geo metro ![]() I don't know the year, but I'm sure you guys know what year this is. It's first gen 91/92? 4cyl. I'm curious if it will bolt up to my 1996 1.3 suzuki swift engine, does anyone know? |
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| t3ragtop | Feb 2 2015, 09:59 PM Post #77 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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what do you mean by "first gen?" 86 to 88? that would be a mk1. |
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| M4tthewd | Feb 2 2015, 10:05 PM Post #78 |
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Matt
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Sorry I guess second generation? I'm pretty sure it's a 1990s something. Do you know of the transmission will fit in a 1996 1.3L? |
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| M4tthewd | Feb 6 2015, 02:51 PM Post #79 |
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Matt
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I've always wanted a tachometer in my car, but I've never seen a cluster in a junk yard that has had one. Last night I had the ambition to put a tachometer in my car, I really don't like the aftermarket on the dash tachos. Yet that's the only tachometer I could put in... Last week I bought a parts car, so I went to it and pulled out the instrument cluster to see if I could possibly put the tacho in there like it was stock. I was looking and then I came up with the conclusion that it would fit perfectly in my temperature gauge area... Luckily I have a scan gauge, so I can still view my temperature...![]() I removed the back circuit, and I actually had to cut into it :/ ![]() I Dremelled a hole into the back, so the cluster would fit properly. I also had to trim the tachometer circuit board quite a bit for it to sit proper as well. ![]() I thought the face plate needed some paint.... But then after all that hard work, I decided it looked stupid. So I just painted it black. ![]() The ProTach has it's own lights and needs a ground and tacho signal. Red + white - ignition 12v Black- ground Green-tachometer signal (brown wire from right side plug) |
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| M4tthewd | Feb 6 2015, 04:02 PM Post #80 |
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Matt
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Short video of it, very pleased with with outcome! |
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| snowfish | Feb 6 2015, 05:03 PM Post #81 |
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Basic GearHead
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Some pretty great engineering there. Very nice.
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| M4tthewd | Feb 6 2015, 07:23 PM Post #82 |
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Matt
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Thank you
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| t3ragtop | Feb 6 2015, 07:38 PM Post #83 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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your tachometer mod is slick! on the transmission you should be able to use anything from 89 through 2000. they were all the same except for the various gear ratios and speedometer drives. mechanically, they are all the same. |
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| M4tthewd | Feb 6 2015, 11:48 PM Post #84 |
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Matt
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Thanks! I love it so far! And sweet, I look forward to swapping the transmission over now I should have lots of photos of that. I'll keep an update.
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| M4tthewd | Feb 8 2015, 12:42 AM Post #85 |
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Matt
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So as fate would have it, the day after I finish my custom tachometer mod, I see this at the scrap yard....![]() It's from a Chevrolet Tracker. Fits right in no problem, but the circuit board is a little different. So a little modding will have to take place. I have technically have a Canadian suzuki swift, so the following instructions may not apply. This is just what I figured out. 1. Put electrical tape over pin 6 on the left connection. This is a ground circuit, the wires will be switched (you'll see, but I didn't want any accidental connections. Lol) ![]() 2. Make a jumper from the middle screw on the temperature gauge and connect it to the middle screw on the fuel gauge. This is our new ground, for the temperature, tachometer and speedometer gauges. ![]() 3. (In the car) Take the left connector (looking from the back, the right connector looking from the front) and remove pin 6 and put it into pin 5's place. I did this because my car sends a signal through to pin 6, but the new cluster needs it in pin 5. ![]() Use a small screw driver to push in the edge and pull out the pin. ![]() 4. Remove warning light cover from Tracker cluster, and replace with the original one from my car. (To be honest, I only think the battery and oil lights actually work but I'm more concerned with the gauges then anything. If you want to spend the time figuring out what to do, by all means, I do not. Lol) 5. Hook up connections, plug the speedo cable in. And you're done
Edited by M4tthewd, Feb 8 2015, 12:56 AM.
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| M4tthewd | Feb 9 2015, 03:59 PM Post #86 |
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Matt
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I saw this the other day and thought I'd share. Should be very helpful with me because all my nuts and bolts are rusted lol
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| M4tthewd | Feb 10 2015, 06:23 PM Post #87 |
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Matt
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So last night I did a little thinking again, and I came up with the idea for a warm air intake, to really help my engine warm up to the proper temperature. I'll let the pictures do the most of the talking....![]() Interior fan was perfect diameter... ![]() Then soldered some wires on.. ![]() And heat shrink... ![]() ![]() Had to make a thinner nozzle part.. ![]() ![]() ![]() This is the box part, I forgot to take an after picture, but I riveted it together, etched it, and then painted it black. ![]() And it all together.. ![]() ![]() Pretty happy with this. Kind of a common mod, but the fan should really help 'catch' the warm air. And if the fan burn out, or anything, it cost me $2 at a thrift store. I'll just get another. Lol |
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| GTluver | Feb 11 2015, 02:36 PM Post #88 |
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The MN welder.
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Just wondering but why don't you just hook up the whole hair dryer and run the hot air from that? |
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| M4tthewd | Feb 12 2015, 09:17 AM Post #89 |
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Matt
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The amount of power it takes would probably decrease my mpg a lot, strain my electrical system, and cost a ton for a inverter! The hair dryer was a 1600 watt heater. |
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| ZXTjato | Feb 12 2015, 09:48 AM Post #90 |
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bass heads
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![]() My warm air Intake
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7:24 PM Jul 10