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| issues removing gauge cluster | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 2 2014, 09:17 PM (997 Views) | |
| Cyborg | May 2 2014, 09:17 PM Post #1 |
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McDumbass
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I have a light in my gauges out, I have a few blue 194 LEDS that i was going to use on another car. Tonight I was planning to yank out the gauge cluster and pop these in. I went through, and have everything ready, when pulling the cluster out, it feels as though the wires on the right are snagged on something. I feel like I prob could give them a hard enough tug and pull it out but I have a horrible habit of breaking stuff. I have already taken the little clips off the wires in the engine bay so they should be able to pull. Any thoughts? |
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| Mythstae | May 2 2014, 09:28 PM Post #2 |
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I always snake my hand into the opening (very small) on the side and reach back and unplug all the plugs from the back of the cluster... Oh, and it'll move forward a bit more if you unplug the speedometer cable from the transmission and push the cable through the grommet in the firewall a bit... |
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| Cyborg | May 2 2014, 09:38 PM Post #3 |
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McDumbass
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thanks, tomorrow morning I will do that. I actually may run back to advance or auto zone and get the red leds, if thats the colors I am going with, might as well only do it once. i will post results afterwards. thank you |
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| mjspiess | May 2 2014, 09:40 PM Post #4 |
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Do you want to upgrade to a cluster with a tachometer while you have it out? I have one sitting on the shelf. If you want an OEM instrument cluster with a tachometer, I have one from a '98 Tracker. They will swap right in with a little modification. The dummy light strip is shaped differently from the Tracker vs Metro, so you'd have to remove both & lay the Tracker strip over the Metro strip & trim the Metro strip to shape. Then move the dummy lights accordingly. Also, the coolant temp. gauge will not work initially. The temp. sending unit wire gets grounded on the Tracker cluster so that wire needs to be moved over one pin in your wiring harness. After removing the wire from the plug & moving it over one slot, the temp. gauge will work just fine. I did this mod on my dad's '93 XFi. Sounds like a lot of work, but it wasn't too bad. I was going to sell it for $65 shipped to a member, but he never came through with the money. |
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| Cyborg | May 2 2014, 09:48 PM Post #5 |
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McDumbass
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Not right now, the one that I got works fine, just a light out. If it weren't working I might but this car has so many issues that I am trying to concentrate on spending what little money I have on stuff that has to be fixed. I appreciate the offer. If I were a little more financially set, I would consider it. |
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| Cyborg | May 3 2014, 03:54 PM Post #6 |
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McDumbass
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Success removing it. I managed to slide my hand behind and disconnect the one right side connector, then while disconnecting the speedo, my hand got stuck. I had to call the Mrs and she brought out some petroleum jelly and lubed me up, slid right out. Scratched the crap out of the tattoo on my wrist (I had my kids names tattooed on my wrist less then 2 months ago). I didnt get the new gauge lights yet, I stopped into autozone and looked, they wanted $10.99 for 1 freaking 4-led light... they also had a cheaper pair that was 2 for $12.99. Forget that, I have an account with superbrightleds.com, I will just order a bunch from them. Ill post pictures after I am done. |
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| davegran | May 4 2014, 09:10 AM Post #7 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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Did you know that certain dash lights have to be special, side-illuminating LED types to work properly in the dash?
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| 1991 xfi | May 13 2014, 07:37 PM Post #8 |
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Fresh Fish
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Hi i have a question i have a 1991 xfi and i had the right side balb go out right when i bought the car which is the back lighting for the temp guage i tried to take it out finally yesterday to replace the balb i had a hard time gettinfg it out like the other gentlemen did but i got it finally i tried to switch tje good balb to the bad side then when i put it back together now none of the dash lights work when you turn on headlights any thougjts thanks? |
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| Cyborg | May 13 2014, 08:17 PM Post #9 |
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McDumbass
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Did you make sure you plugged all the connectors back in the cluster? Make sure the bulbs you used are good. |
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| Jake_ | Aug 20 2015, 04:07 PM Post #10 |
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New Member
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I'm going to be undergoing this project in a few. Just removing it so I can clean up all the gear oil that was leaking from the speedometer cable. Just got the new cable in today. Should be a blast. Did you ever take pictures of gauges after you put in LEDs? I considered changing mine as well. |
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| Stiffchezze | Aug 20 2015, 05:47 PM Post #11 |
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Sir Metrologist
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Welcome! ![]() Lots of us Alabama Boys on here; What part of Bama are you from? Also, be aware that your gear oil in the speedometer cable is from a failed seal in your speedometer gear, not the cable. If you just replace the cable, it will still leak, and possablly pump your transmission dry with a quickness!
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| Jake_ | Aug 25 2015, 11:54 AM Post #12 |
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New Member
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Just seen your reply, I replaced the cable and no more leaks though! The casing that surrounds the magnetic spring had cracked and that was where it was leaking from. I'm from Blount County in Alabama. Although now that I have replaced the cable with a new one, I'm now having leaks from the transmission side, where the speedo cable clips into it. I posted a thread in the transmission section with pictures, if you think you can help! Thanks for the welcome btw, this site has a lot of knowledge and helpful threads. |
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| Woodie | Aug 26 2015, 04:39 AM Post #13 |
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Your problem has nothing to do with the cable, it's a failed seal in the speedometer cable drive. There was a TSB about it, they redesigned th.e housing so that less oil pushes against the o-ring. Lihtan posted this on TeamSwift:
What you really need here is the seal and the o-ring. |
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