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| self adjusting airdam/ grill block.....in progress!!! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 4 2014, 03:55 PM (2,307 Views) | |
| faygoninja | May 4 2014, 03:55 PM Post #1 |
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so im in the works on a self adjusting airdam and grill block all in one item. so i looked at what others have done. i think they are all great. so i went and started buying stuff for an airdam. and i got home and was looking it all over. then i realized that it would completely block the grill. what to do? so i thought about it a bit and was like, ill just cut some holes i guess. then a few minutes later i got the idea for a self adjusting combo to do both without choking my engine to death. im currently working on it, and i dont stop to take pics. ill put something up when i got the prototype done. it will adjust by the speed of driving. its not really that complicated and once i put it up. anyone should be able to duplicate or modify it to their needs. |
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| Reista | May 4 2014, 04:50 PM Post #2 |
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Clutzy Shadetree
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It's going to have to be open at slow speeds and closed/choked at high speeds. To me that sounds like a servo application. You COULD have a spring operation but that would just be closed at low speeds and open at high speeds v.v unless you build some stupidly complicated actuator system lol |
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| faygoninja | May 4 2014, 06:36 PM Post #3 |
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youre in the neighborhood of what im doing.... it will be open at a stop, close around 10-15mph, and two ports one for ac and one for radiator will open hopefully around 45 ish. there are no electronics of anykind in my system. its pretty basic. all based on the air hitting the bumper area. i took a break, i been working on it for a while. i have to go get a few new parts from the hardware store in the a.m. |
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| myredvert | May 4 2014, 06:54 PM Post #4 |
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myredvert
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Can't wait to see it! |
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| faygoninja | May 4 2014, 07:05 PM Post #5 |
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ok so here is the work so far, be nice its not done yet ![]() ![]() with the main flap closed ![]() side view flap down ![]() now, i have to get some different springs and hinges, for the two ports. they weren't strong enough to hold it in place. ![]() more coming soon
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| idmetro | May 5 2014, 07:33 AM Post #6 |
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Interesting idea - Looking forward to your review after using it for a while. |
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| faygoninja | May 5 2014, 11:53 AM Post #7 |
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i ordered a scan tool. i want to get before and after temps and mpgs. so as to know what is gained and what is lost. i am having some trouble with the port hinges. i got the hindges, they are tiny. more so clearance and the springs. i got some now, but have to tweak it a bit. even if it doesnt quite function the exact way i want, it should be fine. by that i mean the ports may not sit flush on the main flap when its down but all will pop back up once moving. |
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| Bad Bent | May 5 2014, 12:11 PM Post #8 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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I was thinking of a piano hinge at the top with weak, recessed springs. Springs push the door out when going slow and compress due to air pressure. And at that, maybe the door would not entirely close at speed, allowing some air in.
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| faygoninja | May 5 2014, 12:31 PM Post #9 |
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ok this is what it looks like now. i have to trim some of the screws for clearance issues, but it looks ok. may have to tweak the springs as well.![]()
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| faygoninja | May 6 2014, 11:03 AM Post #10 |
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so im going to hold off on the third stage of the block for now. the ribs in the plastic cause all kinds of little issues. if i had some of that Solmax stuff another guy used i think it would go alot smoother. anyhow, im going with the two stage. open at stop, and ports at whatever speed the main flap closes. its still an partial grill block. ill put it on the car sometime after i get my scan gauge so i can get a-b readings.
Edited by faygoninja, May 6 2014, 11:04 AM.
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| myredvert | May 17 2014, 01:21 PM Post #11 |
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myredvert
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This^^^^^ At the most! LOL Faygoninja I admire your creativity and determination, but in my opinion you are over-"engineering" a "fix" to a problem that hasn't even been shown to exist at the level of complexity you are making it. Is there actually evidence or data to support your "design theories" about why it may be necessary to start with something this complicated from the beginning? And you're approaching it backwards from the way good "automatic" systems operations are designed and tested, which is to start from the simple and only work towards the complex (or automatic) after its been proven exactly what is really needed, and preferably by first using manual systems to identify an appropriate operating sequence that defines what the automatic system needs to accomplish, i.e., if, when, and how much doors might need to open. Saying that you'll "use a Scangauge and do "A-B" testing" may sound "technical" on paper (onscreen?), but it just isn't what you think it is. I'm just sayin'. A-B means one (1) variable. You already have a lot of them right from the start, and probably even more than you realize. And to get meaningful data, you would need a video camera mounted out in front of your bumper to record actual door positions to correlate to temp readings, and the ability to synch the video of the door positions at various speeds with the temp readings over time, otherwise you will end up with nothing but more unsupported theories to explain your temp readings. A Scangauge is great for reading temps, but if I recall from using mine for few years, it doesn't have the ability to indicate your door positions to go with those temps. And these are just a few of the challenges I see with testing this type of system, but believe me there are several more! |
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| faygoninja | May 17 2014, 03:25 PM Post #12 |
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well number 1: i have time and patience 2: i am fixing a known issue, full blocks over heat the engine, partial are not as aerodynamic. so i wanted an airdam, but the one i wanted to build would cover the grill. so i figured to put some holes in. but while i was doing that, i started thinking about this. now yes, are there complexities that i will overlook, yes. does that mean i wont have better mpg when im done, no. my goal is to clean up the aero in the front while not over heating my engine. if i can get this on and get 2 better mpg average im happy with it. i like building stuff and testing them out. its not for everyone. plus i have seen some crazy stuff on here, that someone had to try first. at least im not just taping siding to my car and praying for better mpg. people agree full blocks get better mpg, partial do too but save from overheating. so im attempting to split the difference. i could see if i was bleeding money into a dying cause, to warn me. its just $20 bucks and my entertainment we are talking about for sure, and maybe a couple mpg's
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| myredvert | May 17 2014, 08:34 PM Post #13 |
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myredvert
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I was just trying to offer some friendly professional advice on more logical and effective ways to approach designing and testing a system like that, but I'll refrain now that I know its in the "$20 entertainment category!"
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| evmetro | May 17 2014, 11:59 PM Post #14 |
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I still scratch my head on this and have done the testing, so I know that items 1 and 2 that you listed are true. I have considered routing the coolant to additional cooling with a full grill block, and I have considered making a grill block with water cooling capability built in. I am glad to see somebody else trying to come up with something, because this opening does create a remarkable amount of drag. |
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| rbell2915 | May 18 2014, 09:46 PM Post #15 |
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Fiero
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Why not control it thermally? As the engine is cold, the block is shut. As it heats up, it will automatically open at varying degrees (angles, not temperature) until it cools down again. In which case it will fully close at operating temp. In theory, you won't have to do anything to control it as it's self-adjusted by the engine. |
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Can't wait to see it!






I was thinking of a piano hinge at the top with weak, recessed springs. Springs push the door out when going slow and compress due to air pressure. And at that, maybe the door would not entirely close at speed, allowing some air in.



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7:09 PM Jul 10