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| No spark, 2000 metro Help !; 2000 metro 1.0 liter no spark. replaced crankshaft position sensor still nothing | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 9 2014, 10:19 PM (1,406 Views) | |
| metroman83 | May 22 2014, 05:18 PM Post #16 |
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New Member
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Anybody ? |
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| m4ick | May 23 2014, 05:01 PM Post #17 |
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The relay will see power but the computer drives the relay to ground, it does not supply 12v+ to the relay. If I'm not mistaken the 12V comes from the main relay which clicks on when you turn the key forward, this relay should turn the ECM on which will drive the pump relay to ground and turn the pump on. I looked briefly for the wiring diagram to the ECM but couldn't find the one with color coded for your 12v+ connections and ground connections which are what need to be checked. This could be anything from a loose wire to ignition switch to bad ECM. Although, the ignition switch seems to be activating the main relay (because you have lights, radio, etc.). Have you checked each fuse under the dash as well? Also try turning the key on and getting under the hood and giving the wires under the fuse box a good push, pull, wiggle and listen for relays clicking. Edited by m4ick, May 23 2014, 05:04 PM.
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| metroman83 | Jun 3 2014, 08:11 AM Post #18 |
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I found the wiring diagram in my manual, the wire to the ignition coil is sending an interrupted pulse to the ignition coil but still no spark. Have not checked the fuel pump wires yet. If the pulse is being sent to the coil and it is, I also checked at the coil is there a problem with the distributor ? Thank you for the help btw |
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| BillMan | Jun 8 2014, 09:19 AM Post #19 |
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Coil will not get power until you try cranking the engine over. Just having the key on, will not give it power. THe car is backwards in a sense, but will get power, when you try to crank it. |
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| BillMan | Jun 8 2014, 09:21 AM Post #20 |
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Elite Member
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Have you fixed your problem? We are both in the same boat. I replaced my distributor and still no luck |
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| Woodie | Jun 9 2014, 04:25 AM Post #21 |
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The coil should read 12V on both sides with the key on but engine not turning. |
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| metroman83 | Jun 14 2014, 01:04 AM Post #22 |
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I tore apart all the wiring under the hood folowing all the blue with white stripe wires. they all had 1.5 volts not 12, they all come from the main relay and supply power to several relays which included the fuel pump and ignition. after all that work I found a wiring harness right on top in plain view where the main relay power comes from the computer through the firewall had a severed wire. it was in plain view if I had just visually looked ! anyways soldered it together and started in half a revolution with 1 1/2 year old gas and runs great. no headlights but I found a white/clear harness under the dash with two burned out connectors. soldered those together bypassing the harness and headlight are there. hope that helps and good luck |
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| metroman83 | Jun 14 2014, 01:05 AM Post #23 |
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thank youvto everyone that helped me out
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| 1DCGUY | Jun 14 2014, 07:53 AM Post #24 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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Good job Metroman!!
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| metroman83 | Aug 7 2014, 03:14 PM Post #25 |
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thank you, it feels soooo damn good to buy a car for $200, work on it for months, figure it out and be driving as to this day but not as good as it did to tell my wife see I told u it wasn't a waste of money so shutup ! hell yeah I got to be right for once besides the junkyard gives $325 for any car
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| Bad Bent | Aug 7 2014, 09:39 PM Post #26 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Be careful though. I got mine for $300, engine in pieces in the hatch. There was some speculation as to if it would ever run again. I installed a JDM engine off eBay. Drove the Wife around all summer and that Winter she spotted a $600 Geo parked in a snow bank. Two guesses who's account that $600 came out of.
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| ssssteve | Aug 12 2014, 09:56 AM Post #27 |
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Elite Member
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Check wires behind drive side fender. Have to take fender off and check wires coming out of firewall from fuse box. Rubber groment can slip out and wires rub on body. |
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| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
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