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dim right headlight
Topic Started: May 10 2014, 01:01 AM (1,955 Views)
mlillie
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Being from the coast of Washington State also. I usually find the same problems from mostly bad grounding caused by corrosion and occasional corroded plug. If the light is dim and you can see both hi-beam and low-beam filaments are on, it is a grounding problem. Thank the good ol' damp salt air.
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ptcapboy


Didn't know that mlillie-thanks for the tip-
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ptcapboy


looking at my wiring diagrams today-power going into fusebox from engine fuse box-power to left headlight fuse, no power to right headlight fuse-to me that tells me the fuse box may be bad-checked ground connections and all other plugs, wires, etc. no obvious problems visible. I also disconnected the plug that goes to the combination switch and jumped terminals on the fusebox end-I could hear relays clicking but no headlights-it is my thinking that the headlights would have come on with the jumper wire if the combo switch was bad-still have both headlights out-read FSM troubleshooting but I don't know what backprobing is and I don't know what terminal B+ is-all I can see are numbered terminals-what a pain
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

If we could work out a day and you were willing you could bring it to Longview and we could sort it out. Heck, you got a shot at Wire for Hire joining in, so 2 for the price of one.
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Mrbreeze


Just a thought, when I picked up the 99 the DRLs worked but no head lights, hi or low, I thought it had a bad switch on the column, went to the jy and got a suitable replacement, so I started unplugging wires at the bottom of the column, the 8 pin plug had 2 burnt connectors on each side, replaced plugs and connectors and the lights worked.. Just my experience, thought I'd share..
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ptcapboy


Thanks guys-actually had the lights fixed when the switch was turned on yesterday (complication of the original dim headlight problem)-now today I really screwed up things by opening up the harness from about the engine fuse block to 5 inches or so from the firewall looking for a broken white red wire at the splice-(trying to fix the original dim headlight problem)found the splice but don't know if it was bad-quite a bit of moisture inside the harness-now tons of things on my car don't work and strange sounds coming from the relay box-think I screwed up some ground splices-anybody know of some grounds in the harness in the area I opened up as decribed above?
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ptcapboy


well fixed my headlights using the brillant Geo Rating repair-couldn't figure out the dim right headlight problem so fixed by running my own fused wire-after studying the FSM wiring diagrams I am baffled why I have no power in the underdash 15 amp fuse when the left headlight fuse and hazard fuse have power-the wire from the 40 amp engine compartment fuse is feeding power to the fusebox so I figured my fusebox was bad-a replacement fusebox had the same dead 15 amp fuse-could a broken white/red wire further down the power path cause no power where the fuse goes? when I checked the splice of the white/red by the left side frame rail the wire leading across the upper firewall to the right light was hot-keep in mind I have a dead 15 amp fuse-how can that be? my understanding of the white/blue white/red wires are power to fusebox from main light fuse power at all times from fusebox to headlights via these wires-
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

Not looking at the diagram at the moment so I won't swear to this being the issue here, but the Metro uses a switched ground, so the wiring is kinda backwards a lot of the time. The switch provides the path to ground, not the positive 12v to the component.
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

:gp
I'll swear to it! :thumb
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Memphis metro


The white/red and white/blue are constant fused hot wires. Corrosion/resistance on a hot wire or a ground wire can cause a dim lamp.
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ptcapboy


thanks for the responses guys-
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