Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2
| dim right headlight | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: May 10 2014, 01:01 AM (1,955 Views) | |
| mlillie | May 21 2014, 04:54 PM Post #16 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Being from the coast of Washington State also. I usually find the same problems from mostly bad grounding caused by corrosion and occasional corroded plug. If the light is dim and you can see both hi-beam and low-beam filaments are on, it is a grounding problem. Thank the good ol' damp salt air. |
![]() |
|
| ptcapboy | May 22 2014, 08:47 PM Post #17 |
![]()
|
Didn't know that mlillie-thanks for the tip- |
![]() |
|
| ptcapboy | May 24 2014, 02:44 AM Post #18 |
![]()
|
looking at my wiring diagrams today-power going into fusebox from engine fuse box-power to left headlight fuse, no power to right headlight fuse-to me that tells me the fuse box may be bad-checked ground connections and all other plugs, wires, etc. no obvious problems visible. I also disconnected the plug that goes to the combination switch and jumped terminals on the fusebox end-I could hear relays clicking but no headlights-it is my thinking that the headlights would have come on with the jumper wire if the combo switch was bad-still have both headlights out-read FSM troubleshooting but I don't know what backprobing is and I don't know what terminal B+ is-all I can see are numbered terminals-what a pain |
![]() |
|
| Metromightymouse | May 29 2014, 08:10 AM Post #19 |
|
Powdercoat Wizard
![]()
|
If we could work out a day and you were willing you could bring it to Longview and we could sort it out. Heck, you got a shot at Wire for Hire joining in, so 2 for the price of one. |
![]() |
|
| Mrbreeze | May 30 2014, 12:22 AM Post #20 |
![]()
|
Just a thought, when I picked up the 99 the DRLs worked but no head lights, hi or low, I thought it had a bad switch on the column, went to the jy and got a suitable replacement, so I started unplugging wires at the bottom of the column, the 8 pin plug had 2 burnt connectors on each side, replaced plugs and connectors and the lights worked.. Just my experience, thought I'd share.. |
![]() |
|
| ptcapboy | May 30 2014, 01:32 AM Post #21 |
![]()
|
Thanks guys-actually had the lights fixed when the switch was turned on yesterday (complication of the original dim headlight problem)-now today I really screwed up things by opening up the harness from about the engine fuse block to 5 inches or so from the firewall looking for a broken white red wire at the splice-(trying to fix the original dim headlight problem)found the splice but don't know if it was bad-quite a bit of moisture inside the harness-now tons of things on my car don't work and strange sounds coming from the relay box-think I screwed up some ground splices-anybody know of some grounds in the harness in the area I opened up as decribed above? |
![]() |
|
| ptcapboy | Jun 1 2014, 01:20 AM Post #22 |
![]()
|
well fixed my headlights using the brillant Geo Rating repair-couldn't figure out the dim right headlight problem so fixed by running my own fused wire-after studying the FSM wiring diagrams I am baffled why I have no power in the underdash 15 amp fuse when the left headlight fuse and hazard fuse have power-the wire from the 40 amp engine compartment fuse is feeding power to the fusebox so I figured my fusebox was bad-a replacement fusebox had the same dead 15 amp fuse-could a broken white/red wire further down the power path cause no power where the fuse goes? when I checked the splice of the white/red by the left side frame rail the wire leading across the upper firewall to the right light was hot-keep in mind I have a dead 15 amp fuse-how can that be? my understanding of the white/blue white/red wires are power to fusebox from main light fuse power at all times from fusebox to headlights via these wires- |
![]() |
|
| Metromightymouse | Jun 1 2014, 06:13 AM Post #23 |
|
Powdercoat Wizard
![]()
|
Not looking at the diagram at the moment so I won't swear to this being the issue here, but the Metro uses a switched ground, so the wiring is kinda backwards a lot of the time. The switch provides the path to ground, not the positive 12v to the component. |
![]() |
|
| Stiffchezze | Jun 1 2014, 12:41 PM Post #24 |
|
Sir Metrologist
![]()
|
![]() I'll swear to it!
|
![]() |
|
| Memphis metro | Jun 1 2014, 12:53 PM Post #25 |
![]()
|
The white/red and white/blue are constant fused hot wires. Corrosion/resistance on a hot wire or a ground wire can cause a dim lamp. |
![]() |
|
| ptcapboy | Jun 1 2014, 02:48 PM Post #26 |
![]()
|
thanks for the responses guys- |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Electrical Systems · Next Topic » |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)







7:30 PM Jul 10