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| 2 years of torment!; timing issues? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 30 2014, 12:58 PM (5,728 Views) | |
| nwgeo | Jun 1 2014, 05:55 PM Post #31 |
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I like TruckJohns Logic-- Yeah. Looking forward to the answer on the problem. |
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| nixmixin | Jun 1 2014, 07:37 PM Post #32 |
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Well, I started on it again. Decided to do a little side project in the process. I dropped the gas tank and blew out every line in the fuel system. There is a little plastic thing on the top of the tank that I assume is a vent check-valve. I cleaned it up too. But when I tested it by blowing through it on both sides, it blew easily in the direction of from the motor toward the tank and allowed very little/restricted airflow in the opposite direction. Is that supposed to work that way? I am taking a food break and then jumping back on it. My plan is to reconnect the lines and see if that did anything. If that doesn't do anything, I will connect the fuel pressure gauge on the supply line just before the throttle body and see if I get any new info ..... |
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| nixmixin | Jun 1 2014, 08:02 PM Post #33 |
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Quick question. . It there a way to check or clean our the evap purge box thingy? Can that clog? |
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| Hanuman | Jun 1 2014, 08:15 PM Post #34 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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i doubt thats the problem, but....while running apply power to the vacuum solinoid valve that activates the evap system. another thing to try....before car is warm and running crappy, disconnect vacuum lines from both egr solenoid valves, and run a line from one to another...or just plug each one. see if car runs ok when fully warm. |
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| Hanuman | Jun 1 2014, 08:16 PM Post #35 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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your o2 sensor may be bad or a shitty connection telling the computer to run way lean/rich |
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| nixmixin | Jun 1 2014, 09:18 PM Post #36 |
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Put everything back together. .. nothing changed. How do ..."....while running apply power to the vacuum solinoid valve that activates the evap system."? |
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| evmetro | Jun 1 2014, 09:41 PM Post #37 |
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Did it help to re stab the distributor? |
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| evmetro | Jun 1 2014, 09:54 PM Post #38 |
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I have not worked on an 89 with vacuum advance, but I have worked on other cars with vacuum advance. Have you taken your distributor cap off and witnessed advance action inside while applying vacuum with a hand pump? Have you checked your vacuum pressure with a vacuum gauge? |
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| nixmixin | Jun 1 2014, 11:23 PM Post #39 |
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there aren't splines for the distributor to be re-stabbed, it only goes in one way. I haven't done the vacuum pump to the advance setup of the distributor either. haven't thought of that either until now. I can try that tomorrow. |
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| Hanuman | Jun 1 2014, 11:50 PM Post #40 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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this isnt a problem that would only effect the engine while warm, timing is timing in your case....... the temp doesnt matter.......suggest moving to other ideas. |
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| Hanuman | Jun 2 2014, 12:01 AM Post #41 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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grab two wires with alligator clips on each end. attach one end of each wire to battery connections, unplug wire connector from evap purge control solenoid. attach one alligator clip to the exposed terminal inside the solenoids connector, take the second alligator clip and touch to other terminal to activate. dont just clip it on, just touch it to activate so you can instantly "deactivate" your test. do test with engine cold, note results, repeat with engine warm and note results.....compare and post any changes between the two results. do the same with egr. between the two tests.......your far more likely to have a malfunctioning egr that's dumping to much while warm. post...and lets go from there. some one else will have a better idea on how to test the o2 sensor.....i could give you a few ideas...but theres better experts......one will be along shortly...(i hope you have a scope)....lol |
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| nixmixin | Jun 2 2014, 03:33 PM Post #42 |
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So, I started here...The vacuum action worked perfectly with either of the 2 ports on the the distributor. ...but I got curious and it may have paid off... I took out the distributor and took it apart. This is what I found.. ![]() ![]() one of the wires is exposed. I would imagine that is not on purpose and could easily cause arcing and misfires? Hanuman: While I wait for responses on the pics above, I will be doing your tests too. More data on the way! |
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| Bad Bent | Jun 2 2014, 03:37 PM Post #43 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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I had some rough running symptoms and figured out that the timing was not advancing - in spite of clear vacuum lines. I took a can of spray carburator cleaner, pulled the lines to the vacuum advance and sprayed some cleaner into the hose. It will sit on the 'Gas Filter" until the engine is started, which is a good thing, and it will vacuum into the TB also. I found the weights in the vacuum advance were OK but I added a little grease to the moving parts. |
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| evmetro | Jun 2 2014, 04:35 PM Post #44 |
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I have never messed with the weights, so I have no advice to offer on this. It sounds like bad bent has a pretty good idea with greasing them though. I am probably not going to have much more to offer, but I would do a vacuum test on the car to make sure that there is something to operate the vacuum advance with as long as you have come this far. If you need any parts, let me know. I have plenty of parts laying around from converting my Metros to electric, but they are from '93 and up. I do not recall seeing a vacuum advance on the '93... |
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| Hanuman | Jun 2 2014, 04:52 PM Post #45 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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89-91 on lsi. base and xfi got computer controlling timing earlier |
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3:50 AM Jul 11