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2 years of torment!; timing issues?
Topic Started: May 30 2014, 12:58 PM (5,724 Views)
nixmixin
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WE MIGHT HAVE A SOLUTION!!!
I started rechecking and retesting everything as if I had never seen the car before. yada yada yada... I had rechecked the IAC valve and it was great....still. But after the engine was warm, that valve being open makes a vacuum leak, causing high idle. My thought instantly was, something is giving the wrong information to the ECU to tell the IAC to be open. So back to the sensors....This time I decided to start with the MAP. I now have the IAC vacuum line plugged, thus having a normal idle. When I stab the throttle, like the video I posted, the same results are happening. I unplug the electronic connection of the MAP, the engine stumbles to almost dying but I keep it going by manually messing with the throttle. I then, rev the engine with the MAP unplugged.... NO BOGGING!!! ^o) I unplug the vacuum line of the IAC and the idle is restored without stumbling. I rev the engine again, still with the MAP not plugged in and it sounds like a BEAST! :D
I plug the electronic part of the MAP back in and the bog/flooding instantly returns.

SO, I am ordering a new MAP this week.
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clarkdw


Get one from the wreckers. Denso part # 18590-60B00 (interchanges with part #'s 1007983700, 1850060810, 1859060E00, 1859060E10, 213376, 30007761).

I could try 5 of them from the wreckers for less than the price of one new one for my 94 upgraded emissions. I got one from ebay and it has served me well for 50k miles.
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

start searching threads with mwebb talking about the map sensor.......theres one in the last week or so, he talks about the proper voltages and how to test.
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evmetro


Don't forget the last sentence in post 38. I would observe the results cold and warm as a reference.
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nixmixin
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I haven't checked the vacuum with a gauge yet. What numbers are good/normal?
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nixmixin
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I tested the vacuum pressure and it was between 18 and 20 depending on which vacuum line I tested. I checked the MAP, distributor advance and the intake manifold lines.

I did "search" for a write up on "how to test the MAP" and found a small post that I didn't fully understand. Please post a link to an easy to follow guide on testing the MAP. I have looked every where without success.
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clarkdw


Follow this link and go to page 6E2-A1-46. FSM diagnostics.

When my MAP sensor went bad it tested ok by every measure. I replaced it and my problem disappeared. The only way I could keep the car running was to do a tap dance on the throttle continuously.
Edited by clarkdw, Jun 17 2014, 11:11 PM.
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nixmixin
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Update: still same bogging/flooding after warmed up. 20 MPG average.

List of recently replaced parts:
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap/rotor
Distributor igniter coil (air gap set to spec)
Air Filter
PCV
o2 sensor
all vacuum lines

List of recent tests, calibrations and alterations:
rebuilt intake manifold, throttle body, EGR, EGR passages
Cleaned/rebuilt/calibrated the Fast Idle Air Valve to factory spec
Removed Cat & muffler to confirm no exhaust blockage
timing set to 6 DBTDC
checked for consistent vacuum (no flutter)
checked vacuum advance mech. (with 15" vacuum added, timing advances to 22 DBTDC)
Checked IAC valve (engine/key off = cannot blow through/valve closed .... engine warmed up/running, valve OPENED causing high idle, pinch vacuum line, idle drops...when engine is cold, valve is closed/no affect to pinching vacuum line.)

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nixmixin
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brand new MAP sensor too.
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nixmixin
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doing more reading...
my distributor has a igniter/pick up coil that I just swapped in a new one... but I don't thing it has a "CMP"? Is it supposed to have one? When I bought the entire new distributor a while back, I was focused on making sure that it had 2 vacuum advance ports but never checked the insides...??
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nixmixin
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Did more research and testing today.
The CMP is not on my car.
Took apart distributor again. Followed Hayne's Manual instructions and tested the pickup coil and module separately. Both are within the range of operating correctly. Reset the air gap to spec.
Tested the grounds all over the engine for continuity. I had previously put 8 gauge grounds on the engine in several places but I wanted to double check per suggestion.

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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

if only you were in alaska........
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nixmixin
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I finished doing the testing and put the car back together I noted in Post #101 and I started and ran the car and had no change or improvement. This morning I tried to start it and now I cant even get it to start. It turns over a few times and eventually back fires. I confirmed good spark in all 3 plugs and sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body while the car is being cranked and that did nothing. I put a timing light on it during crank, and the timing mark is showing almost 90 out of alignment?!! The line is showing at 3 o'clock vs 12 noon for TDC with the timing light?
I then checked the cam and crank for the possibility of a timing belt jumping a tooth.... everything looks correct and on point.????

AAAAAAARRRRRGH!

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Memphis metro


Look at the bright side of it. It will not be much longer and you can change the title of the thread to 3 years of torment.
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Coyote X


did you check the fuel pressure to see if it was right and the fuel return line to make sure it is not clogged or accidentally swapped with the vent line for the tank? My best guess with the car other than the timing issue it just developed is that the fuel system is not right somehow.
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