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| fix one problem just to find another. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 30 2014, 08:06 PM (1,362 Views) | |
| Cyborg | May 30 2014, 08:06 PM Post #1 |
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McDumbass
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So I post a while back that I had an exhaust leak, I took the cat pipe off and doing so, found the weld connecting the 90 degree bend to the cat was rusted so bad that it actually broke while taking it off. Well since funds are tight I decided to grind off the old weld, and re-weld it. I ended up cutting about an inch off the pipe and welding a new piece back in. It worked perfectly. No I dont have any pics of it after, I was going to take pics but in the middle of the welding process my daughter walked in and i dropped the gun so she didnt get welders-flash. I walked over to her to tell her daddy was almost done and she could come in while daddy was working so she didnt get hurt. I was completely off my game, walked over and my stupid hand grabbed right where I just welded. Luckily I dropped it before it burned me to bad, it was just enough to hurt and like make my skin dry up a little. Anyways, today went ahead and put the pipe back on. I took the heat shield off so I could make sure the pipe lined up with the exhaust manifold properly. Doing so I noticed underneath the heat shield, there was a crack in the exhaust manifold (pics below). Well despite that, everything fit perfect. I went and started her up, everything was fine and I noticed that there was smoke rising off the ex. manifold.... Also the car seems to run fine for a few seconds then it sounds likes its about to stall out and kinda shakes a little. Then it runs fine, then repeat. Sometimes it sounds like its going to just shut off. I HAVE NOT reconnected the downstream 02 sensor which I am pondering if that not being attached is making the car run like that....?? the crack ![]() the video So, is what could the smoke be? It looks to be rising off the entire manifold, not like its coming out of the crack. I havent spilled any oil or anything on it so I dont think that its burning off anything. Its really starting to bug the hell out of me because I dont know how long its been cracked or smoking.... is it safe to drive or will it catch fire? Also, would it be the 02 sensor missing that is causing the car to sputter and shake?? thanks in advance. Edited by Cyborg, May 30 2014, 08:10 PM.
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| Cyborg | May 30 2014, 10:34 PM Post #2 |
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McDumbass
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| aaronvincent | May 30 2014, 10:56 PM Post #3 |
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Mr Mojo Risin'
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That engine of yours sounds funky, like a walrus with a bad case of the poots. Not having your O2 sensor plugged in certainly isn't helping it run any better. Engines will become "choked" when an 02 sensor is unplugged or not working properly because the computer is just running off of what it knows. You should obviously plug the O2 sensor back in and probably replace that manifold. You don't want to weld something too many times, you can cause stress points that will crack more. If you can't find a new manifold I suppose you could weld it but I would think it easier to simply replace with a known good piece. As for the fixing one problem and finding another right away, welcome to the freakin' club. That's what happens when you own a used metro
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| Cyborg | May 30 2014, 11:16 PM Post #4 |
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McDumbass
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I have been searching my @$$ off for a replacement manifold. nothing on ebay. I have been messaging sellers that have used 1.3L to see if they have any, no replies yet. If i dont hear anything the only thing I think ill be able to do with manifold is weld it. What type of material is it? Metal? Cast Iron? |
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| Cyborg | May 30 2014, 11:27 PM Post #5 |
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McDumbass
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Well I found the old 02 sensor, i had to cut the old wires and solder and heat shrink in the new sections from where they were melted. I went, plugged it in, and started it up.... no more weird "walrus with a bad case of the poots" sounds. Sounded better then she has in a while. no more exhaust leaks or holes where 02 sensors popped out. Still working on the fix for the exhaust manifold. i do have this major fear, if i go to remove the manifold, i am almost certain the bolts will snap, they are rusted and corroded like crazy. |
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| Metromightymouse | May 31 2014, 04:20 AM Post #6 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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It's cast iron, not really weldable according to what I've read. If I was gonna redneck it, my first attempt would be exhaust patch kit and then a wrap to try to keep everything in place. |
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| Hotrodray1 | May 31 2014, 05:39 AM Post #7 |
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Over Educated parts guy
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It can be welded but not easy. Have to drill hole at each end of crack so crack will not go any further then groove manifold the full length of crackin a v shape. Then heat manifold red hot where you are going to weld it and use cast iron rod to weld. Been doing it for years. Blocks and hard to fing manifolds. Has always worked and never cracked. Mainly been on very large engines like Cat,Cummins blocks and Manifolds. Have welded hard to find manifolds on big block fords and dodges. it can be done just a lot of work to do!
Edited by Hotrodray1, May 31 2014, 05:39 AM.
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| Metromightymouse | May 31 2014, 05:54 AM Post #8 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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There ya go, drop by Hotrodray1's place and he can weld it up, free of charge I'm sure. So many specialized skills here and they all drive simple little Metro's. It's funny sometimes. |
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| Cyborg | Jun 1 2014, 01:54 PM Post #9 |
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McDumbass
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since I have been unable to find a replacement, i talked to a buddy of mine who had something similar happen. he said he used high temp jb weld and it worked fine. Its going to be a temporary, patch (rather than a fix). The stuff I got wasnt actually jb weld, it is CarGo Thermosteel Thermosteel 2400°F Cold Weld. It says "Thermosteel is engineered to withstand temperatures up to 2400°F and to withstand direct flame. Use Thermosteel to repair furnaces, BBQs or other high-heat item to fill cracks, holes and pits. Strength is designed to increase with heat.".. which doesnt always state the 100% truth. Reviews on there seemed good, most of what I read on google seemed like its a decent product. I got home, cleaned the area around the crack, mixed it up real well then applied. At first I seemed very skeptical, it seemed like water with finely ground steel in it. Within a few minutes it started to thicken. By the time I got cleaned up, the stuff was already hard to the touch. I will update when I find out the true results of this. Unfortunately I wont be able to drive the car to work for a few days because I wasnt able to have it inspected on Friday. So hopefully Wednesday when our DMV closes at 8pm, I will be able to swing through and get it inspected and tagged. Until then, I have no idea how I am getting to work Mon-Wed. Not a good start to first day back to work. |
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| truckjohn | Jun 1 2014, 05:05 PM Post #10 |
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Why not just braze it? You can do that with a good hot torch... But... That's probably not the only reason your engine is running terrible.... It sounds to me like an EGR stuck open or something like that... |
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| Bjetmech | Jun 1 2014, 08:36 PM Post #11 |
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I had the same issue when I did my 1.3L rebuild. Every 4 cyl at the PnP was cracked and like you have found eBay is no help there. I ended up getting one from the gm parts giant. Link Here |
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| redwaffles | Jun 2 2014, 01:47 PM Post #12 |
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Hobby Mechanic
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The manifold bolts always rust up like crazy. the night before you plant to remove it spray some liquid wrench on them and let it soak in. Then do it again about 5 minutes before you plan to take them off. When you put it back on use new bolts, you should be able to get a manifold bolt set at any auto part store for around $10. That is of course if you still plan on replacing it after you got that liquid weld stuff.
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| Cyborg | Jun 2 2014, 03:48 PM Post #13 |
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McDumbass
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i plan to replace it when i can find one cheap. for now ill see how this liquid weld stuff works out. on another note, i am going to go ahead and replace the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the cat pipe, so the flange gasket. Edited by Cyborg, Jun 2 2014, 03:53 PM.
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| Cyborg | Jun 2 2014, 03:50 PM Post #14 |
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McDumbass
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found one on rockauto, but not sure which is the correct one? CORTECO Part # 131561 WALKER Part # 31320 FEL-PRO Part # 60816- Converter? BOSAL Part # 256036 other?? Edited by Cyborg, Jun 2 2014, 03:56 PM.
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| ronniew | Jun 26 2014, 01:43 PM Post #15 |
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Fresh Fish
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Hello all, I have the same issue with my manifold. I was wondering what problems you have with a cracked manifold ( inaccurate air/fuel readings to the computer) or anything else. I only drive it 6 miles a day and was trying to delay fixing until I can come up with a few bucks for a new one. ( I dont want to buy a junkyard part that would be prone to cracking again). By the way, the car runs great with no issues- I have logged roughly 39-40 mpg in my city commute the last two fillups. Thanks |
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