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| The Red Baron; It's about to get nasty up in here. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 5 2014, 11:26 PM (14,356 Views) | |
| t3ragtop | Aug 10 2014, 09:51 AM Post #76 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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the secret to making the tube reinforced axles work is to cut the ends of the pipe in sine wave shapes. that maximizes the surface of the weldment and changes the circumferential weldment into a longitudinal weldment which is structurally more robust. |
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| Metromightymouse | Aug 10 2014, 12:36 PM Post #77 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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If I was making an axle like that I think I would weld the tube in 4 spots at both ends and then cut a slot all the way down to the axle in between the welds and then weld those slots up. Ought to be plenty strong. |
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| ZXTjato | Aug 10 2014, 02:50 PM Post #78 |
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bass heads
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Crazy crazy you guys are |
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| t3ragtop | Aug 10 2014, 03:09 PM Post #79 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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you want to be careful about where you add the welds. the axle really wants to be balanced to a certain degree as it has a considerable mass and that will be spinning pretty fast. |
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| dueces | Aug 12 2014, 04:55 PM Post #80 |
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Advanced Member
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It does have a decent mass, but it's torque arm is at .5 inches from centerline, meaning it will take a lot of off-balance to cause too much of an issue. the axles only spin as fast as the tire rotates, and this thing wont see over 45mph for the first part of it's life. I thought about drilling holes through the tube and the axle, and pinning them as well, but I don't plan on beating this thing too much right now, I just need it running. currently I am trying to start the motor, which for some reason isn't getting spark, and I don't think it's getting fuel either. ecu is turning on, I'm an not sure what I am missing yet. Grounds are mounted, fuel pressure is there, just no injector pulsing or spark... |
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| calrenman | Aug 22 2014, 04:34 AM Post #81 |
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Just another wrench.
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| dueces | Aug 27 2014, 09:01 PM Post #82 |
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Advanced Member
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Long time no post. We have been in and out of the hospital trying to keep my baby boy from being born too early, so I have only gotten to work on the car here and there... After many hours of trying to use the stock wiring harness, I have thrown in the towel. If this were a honda chassis it would be an easy swap, but since the chassis doesn't share anything, it's almost impossible for me to get it wired correctly. Honda - tech guys are no help, not understanding what I'm really up against, so last night I purchased a MegaSquirt MSnS extra. Comes with the stand alone ecu, and an 8 foot wiring loom. I have cut off all the important connectors off of the crv wiring harness, and will wire them one by one to the new loom. It will be a little time consuming, but in the end it will give me all the control I need over the engine, as well as a 4 bar map sensor! Meaning all sorts of boost! Now this may seem counterproductive, but I am familiar with this unit as it's what I used on my twin charged 11 second Probe. Also, this unit was $421 shipped, which is about a half of what I would have invested in a Hondata, so I feel it's a good move. The unit should be in on Saturday, so I will try to hhave all the sensors on the engine ready to be soldiered in. Thanks for looking, even though there are no new pics.... John Edited by dueces, Aug 27 2014, 09:03 PM.
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| ZXTjato | Aug 27 2014, 09:04 PM Post #83 |
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bass heads
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I hear you on things that are familiar. Some times just doing things the way you know how is the best. Been wondering were you were. Nice you checking in we need pics man
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| t3ragtop | Aug 28 2014, 01:17 AM Post #84 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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megasquirt is the way to go. ![]() i have 2 megasquirt engine management systems, one on my turbo3 and one for a twincam g13b. |
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| dueces | Aug 28 2014, 11:16 PM Post #85 |
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Advanced Member
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Very nice! Yeah the only thing that is skeptical is the VA sensors in the disty. If it were a hall effect sensor, the MS would run perfect right off the bat, but since the signal from VA sensors is a sine wave, it is harder for MS to pick it up. We will see though, should be here Saturday |
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| t3ragtop | Aug 29 2014, 02:00 AM Post #86 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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right on. i developed hall effect device timing bits for my turbo3, a gear sensor with a 36-1 toothed wheel on the crank and a magnet embedded in the cam gear so i could run in full sequential mode and delete the oem distributor. i used outboard signal conditioning circuits that feed the megasquirt nice clean square waves with nonvarying amplitude. i tested the timing set up to 19,200 rpm and it's rock steady. the megasquirt is extremely happy with those inputs. the variable reluctance sensors they were using at the time acted like a generator. at idle the timing signal was in the mud but at 6000 rpm the timing signal was at 70 volts. that was causing timing resets and farts that were not a good thing, especially at 21 psi boost pressure. the one thing that a megasquirt needs is a rock steady ignition timing system, especially if you plan on turbocharging an engine.
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| dueces | Aug 29 2014, 08:28 AM Post #87 |
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Advanced Member
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Yeah, I wouldn't mind if they had that, lol. Also, my phone auto corrected me, I put VR, and it changed it to VA, sometimes I hate this thing. |
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| dueces | Aug 29 2014, 04:05 PM Post #88 |
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Advanced Member
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![]() ![]() First pics in a while, good ones though.... |
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| t3ragtop | Aug 29 2014, 06:33 PM Post #89 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i built my own hall effect stuff. the resolution is better if you develop a trigger wheel system and then sequential injection combined with multi-channel direct fire ignition opens up previously greyed out injection tables in tuner studio. ![]() the ms controller you bought is already set up to run the engine so that saves a lot of development time. i used the ms2 version 3 kit and then engineered it to run the 3 banger the way i wanted things. my problem was mostly that the megasquirt isn't all that 3 cylinder friendly. at first while i was running in batch fire i had to "spoof" the firmware to think it was running a 6 cylinder engine. i used injectors that were so big that the shortest squirt i could coax out of them was too much fuel for any idle below 1200 rpm and pig rich at that. i had a certain hp output in mind and i crunched numbers on everything from the fuel injector size to thermal output that needed to managed. single squirts from each injector at the right time under sequential control let me get the idle down to 1000 rpm but i can still smell fuel in the exhaust. my afr indicates 12 to 1 at idle with a 14:1 target in the tuner studio setting. the numbers on the water/air intercooling proved out. the blanket on the turbo worked. the oil cooler worked. the megasquirt controlled fan relays worked. the wiring and programming was a monster bitch. ![]() it looks like you pretty much have the mechanical stuff in order. have fun with the wiring. i hope that the wife's pregnancy settles. |
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| dueces | Aug 29 2014, 06:49 PM Post #90 |
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Advanced Member
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Thanks for the kind words for the wife! My unit isn't setup yet to run my motor, unless if your referring to it being a 4cyl. Since no one uses these on hondad, it will take me a little while to find maps to compare to and build my own. And I don't think mine is capable of sequential firing, just batch or bank.... but ill look into that more. If I can't get a good signal with the VR, I will look into designing my own hall effect as well. |
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7:23 PM Jul 10