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| Need some fuel system help! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 6 2014, 12:32 PM (1,120 Views) | |
| nerys | Jun 6 2014, 12:32 PM Post #1 |
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Grr
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Ok trying to get my orange metro going. what I know is he claims it was running and the fuel pump died. I got a fuel pump mechanic is trying to install it its a 93 XFI but it has a Swift 1.3 Drivetrain in it (in case that matters) What wires goto the fuel pump? sender? colors? schematics? there are 4 connections on the fuel tank itself. what are they for? Obviously one is the fuel pump out and another is the return line. what are the other 2 (or 1 might have been 3) vents? where do they go? any help greatly appreciated! |
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| snowfish | Jun 6 2014, 12:41 PM Post #2 |
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Basic GearHead
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Fuel in, Fuel out, Evap, & filler neck vent.
That should all be in your FSM.
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| nerys | Jun 6 2014, 01:24 PM Post #3 |
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Grr
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I dont have access to my fsm till next wednesday. |
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| 3cyltom | Jun 6 2014, 01:35 PM Post #4 |
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Metroxfi.com coyotex's site has wiring diagrams. I use them all the time. |
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| Hotrodray1 | Jun 6 2014, 01:43 PM Post #5 |
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Over Educated parts guy
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Evap canister! |
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| Memphis metro | Jun 6 2014, 02:15 PM Post #6 |
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If your mechanic does not know these things, you better fire him. He should just be able to look at it and tell what is what. |
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| nerys | Jun 7 2014, 01:07 AM Post #7 |
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Grr
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The car is an electrical nightmare at this point. lines where missing (found them in a bag in a box) wires were spliced and changed nothing "matched" what it should be. |
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| snowfish | Jun 7 2014, 10:46 AM Post #8 |
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Basic GearHead
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Good thing you're the electrical Guru! Perfect man for the job. You'll figure it out. Just breath, take a logical approach, and process of elimination.
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| greatdadto2 | Jun 7 2014, 11:18 AM Post #9 |
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Member
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One should read voltage, one should be direct short to ground because it is ground. If you mechanic cant figure that out be leary.. |
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| nerys | Jun 7 2014, 03:06 PM Post #10 |
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Grr
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I HATE electrical. man do I hate electrical. and please stop shitting on my mechanic. he has saved my ass more times than I can count. I owe him more than I can ever repay. he knows I like things really "stock" and "proper" so diags woud let him restore it to the way its supposed to be. not just "make it work" which yes would be easy. I would prefer all the right connections right sizes and right colors so if "I" ever have to work on that part I can look in my FSM and make out what the frack it is I am looking at. |
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| mwebb | Jun 7 2014, 09:33 PM Post #11 |
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FOG
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![]() from a 1996 should be similar to yours in the fuel pump assembly flange the line from the fuel pump pressure tap goes to the large injector / fuel rail connection 8mm or 5/16" the return line from AFTER the pressure regulator returns to the fuel tank in the fuel pump assembly flange 1/4" about |
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| GeoMojoe | Jun 7 2014, 11:58 PM Post #12 |
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Member
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You should have 3 wires that run thru a hole under the right side of the rear seat. There should be a 2 conductor plug, (pink and black) and a single conductor plug (yellow). Yellow is for the fuel gauge, pink and black is for the fuel pump, pink is hot+, and black is ground-. You should be able to use your test light on the pink wire and it should light up for about 3 seconds when you first turn the key to the run position. (That is on the '93). However, when the engine is running, the fuel pump will be on all the time. You can verify this with your test light. Tip: I like to test the pump and fuel gage sender assembly by pluging it in while it is out of the tank. Your not going to hurt the pump by running it dry for just a couple of seconds, and you can slowly move the sender arm up and down, and watch the fuel gage to see if there are any "dead spots". Also I pretty much agree with Big Rhino. If your mechanic has a hard time figuring out this simple stuff then you may be wasting time and $.
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| nerys | Jun 8 2014, 01:23 AM Post #13 |
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Grr
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wow. yeah he has a yellow a blue and a black white stripe wire :-) just gonna replace with correct colors :-) HEY great idea about testing the fuel gauge sender out of the tank first. I think he already has the unit back in the tank but definitely good to remember that trick!! |
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| t3ragtop | Jun 8 2014, 09:22 AM Post #14 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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nerys, the big issue is that a fuel pump for a g10 won't provide fuel flow or pressure required by the g13. use an e8023 aftermarket replacement pump and adapt the fuel door mounting to accept the bigger pump. i have done it a number of times, perparatory to turbo3 and twincam engine swaps. |
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| nerys | Jun 8 2014, 11:19 PM Post #15 |
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Grr
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I did upgrade the pump (aftermarket performance pump) but that is a damned good point T3 something I never thought of. I had simply assumed the "right" pump was in their since he claims it "ran" before the pump died. of course he could have been talking out his you know what. is there really that big a difference between the engines fuel flow wise? or is it the kind of thing its fine until you romp on the gas then you don't get enough? (I know nothing about these systems hence my potentially silly questions :-) |
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Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.






Perfect man for the job.
You'll figure it out.


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7:29 PM Jul 10