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The WOLF CUB (1993 Suzuki Swift/Metro)
Topic Started: Jun 25 2014, 03:15 PM (14,634 Views)
Greywolf
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Mostly Harmless

BREAKING NEWS!!!
FINAL FORM NEAR COMPLETE... Details at eleven.


I couldn't leave it alone, so I continued for a few more hours. I know that a lot of you have experience at concepts, and visualising what a 'thing' is going to look like at the far end of a lot of processes, but many people just don't have that. For quite a few, I bet they have been seeing this, and nodding their heads when they connect with how I do this, how I work with that, what this does - but what you are about to see is a giant leap. Even I couldn't be really sure what I'm about to show you folks here because it could have gone in so many different directions at different points.

NOW finally - a thing I saw only in my imagination SO LONG AGO... It is SO CLOSE to becoming a reality...
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NOW you see it too, don't you?

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I visualised this when a silly piece of tin was covering up the mess that had been made of the grill - 2007 it was.

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With a clean knife-edged intake floor, looking like something from some kind of hi-tech racing division

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Above you see the reason for the "END CAPS" I made. Even IF the glass resin fails to work completely - this is structurally sound enough that with a few more pieces it will work...

My GOD! I can hardly believe it.

If there is any decent weather at all today I am going to bolt the whole business together and do an ON-CAR fit test, fenders and all, especially since I want to see what the spacing needs to be for some parts.

But mostly just to see the whole thing almost together, this daydream of mine that has just about come true...

I think I need that just as a "MOTIVATOR", and I hope I have enough metal left to replace the floor panel. I want it to have built-in splitters at the corners

** For turn signals I'm thinking 1" diameter 'BULLET' lights

The last two times I had the whole dog and pony show together looked like this;
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What do you think? Is this what you thought I was doing all this time?
Edited by Greywolf, Oct 15 2014, 05:08 AM.
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evmetro


It looks to me like you are having fun, and that you are ambitious. It makes my day to see this kind of energy put forth into a project like this. You had a vision, and you are building it! In my opinion, this stage of your project is more important than the if you get the results that you were after. After all, if the results are not what you were after, you can always go back in and modify it some more... Anyway, hats off to you for digging in and building your vision. Don't ever give up on that.
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Greywolf
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Okay, next update. First the "Work" pictures- needed measurements and checks that will determine what happens next:

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* In the center above - you see a slight downward dip under the crossmember. That is a prime JACKPOINT,
and I need to slot the bottom panel so that it can CONTINUE to be a prime jackpoint...
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* The original center mount bracket is going BYE BYE! In the second pic the flange that the arrows point to is where I will attach a "False Floor" to the bottom of the air duct the full width, and probably curving up at the rear on the sides.
This piece will add a lot of support, the four arrows are the approx. places I will run self tapping screws through the piece and down into the flange.

The sides of the duct will be worked out with that in mind.

The 'construct' is going to be outdoors for a few days while I look at everything I can and figure out how to pull it together as tight and seamlessly as possible.

and now for the FUN PICTURES...

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Is it just me, or does it look like the car has a happy expression? :nfs

Sad but: I don't have enough metal right now to re-make the bottom plate the way I wanted it to be. But sooner or later I'll find some the right thickness and size. For now I'll trim it, and add splitters to the bottom of it.

* COOL! I think I just found the turn signals I wanna use. 1 inch round, flush mount 3-LED super brights:
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NOTE on EDIT: Paste the CORRECT images, dipstick!
Edited by Greywolf, Oct 17 2014, 04:24 AM.
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Greywolf
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Mostly Harmless

MATERIALS NOTES and LINKS:


POLYPROPYLENE

1) What it is/ Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polypropylene

2) How to repair
Many objects are made with polypropylene precisely because it is resilient and resistant to most solvents and glues. Also, there are very few glues available specifically for gluing PP. However, solid PP objects not subject to undue flexing can be satisfactorily joined with a two part epoxy glue or using hot-glue guns. Preparation is important and it is often helpful to roughen the surface with a file, emery paper or other abrasive material to provide better anchorage for the glue. Also it is recommended to clean with mineral spirits or similar alcohol prior to gluing to remove any oils or other contamination. Some experimentation may be required. There are also some industrial glues available for PP, but these can be difficult to find, especially in a retail store.

PP can be melted using a speed welding technique. With speed welding, the plastic welder, similar to a soldering iron in appearance and wattage, is fitted with a feed tube for the plastic weld rod. The speed tip heats the rod and the substrate, while at the same time it presses the molten weld rod into position. A bead of softened plastic is laid into the joint, and the parts and weld rod fuse. With polypropylene, the melted welding rod must be "mixed" with the semi-melted base material being fabricated or repaired. A speed tip "gun" is essentially a soldering iron with a broad, flat tip that can be used to melt the weld joint and filler material to create a bond.


3) CHEMICAL and PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:
Most commercial polypropylene is isotactic and has an intermediate level of crystallinity between that of low-density polyethylene (LDPE) and high-density polyethylene (HDPE). Polypropylene is normally tough and flexible, especially when copolymerized with ethylene. This allows polypropylene to be used as an engineering plastic, competing with materials such as ABS. Polypropylene is reasonably economical, and can be made translucent when uncolored but is not as readily made transparent as polystyrene, acrylic, or certain other plastics. It is often opaque or colored using pigments. Polypropylene has good resistance to fatigue. The melting point of polypropylene occurs at a range, so a melting point is determined by finding the highest temperature of a differential scanning calorimetry chart. Perfectly isotactic PP has a melting point of 171 °C (340 °F). Commercial isotactic PP has a melting point that ranges from 160 to 166 °C (320 to 331 °F), depending on atactic material and crystallinity. Syndiotactic PP with a crystallinity of 30% has a melting point of 130 °C (266 °F).[2] The melt flow rate (MFR) or melt flow index (MFI) is a measure of molecular weight of polypropylene. The measure helps to determine how easily the molten raw material will flow during processing. Polypropylene with higher MFR will fill the plastic mold more easily during the injection or blow-molding production process. As the melt flow increases, however, some physical properties, like impact strength, will decrease. There are three general types of polypropylene: homopolymer, random copolymer, and block copolymer. The comonomer is typically used with ethylene. Ethylene-propylene rubber or EPDM added to polypropylene homopolymer increases its low temperature impact strength. Randomly polymerized ethylene monomer added to polypropylene homopolymer decreases the polymer crystallinity and makes the polymer more transparent.

4) PLASTIC WELDER TOOLS available at AMAZON
(not a promotion, just a helpful link for reference)
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=plastic+welders&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=30942413421&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10582211665336362979&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8xz1qkxkjc_b

* 2), and 3) are taken directly from the article listed as 1) above. 4) was an internet search of my own.


It looks to me as if 350 °F is about the right working temperature for a "Plastic Weld" tool. Some of the ones I was looking at at the link I copied are as low as $20 or so, they go right off the scale for more sophisticated kits.

This plastic is also used for lead-acid battery cases, and is identified as recyclable plastic type 5 (small triangular marking with a number 5 inside it)

Tools range from simple "SOLDER PENCIL" types that look like they would be only partially effective($15 - $25) to something like a specialized heat gun ($70 - $250), a heating element that uses 4 - 5 PSI air from a compressor and regulator with an adjustable temperature (between $70 - $100) - and then jump to industrial units costing several thousands.

PROBLEM: A normal 250 to 500 degree F heat gun would have too wide a nozzle, the melted zone would be too big. The Plastic Welding specific heat guns have a much smaller nozzle. Looks like about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

It looks to me like one of the electric hot air types is going to be essential.

~I'm guessing that one of the specialized heat guns will be needed to melt the surrounding plastic, and one of the solder pencil type will have to be used to work the donor plastic into the repair.

No matter what, the ticket is going to be at least a kennedy bill if I want to seriously ride this train...
Still, it seems interesting. I'd appreciate some guidance here from somebody who has gotten into this.

I think I'll get a "Speed Tip Gun" ($25 or so) just to start with.


PS, Mike (myredvert):

Not the best sketch I've ever done - it was late/early morning as usual and I'm getting kind of foggy. But it shows it -

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Assuming pressure from forward motion, and some of the airflow going into the cooling section, the outer airflow stream should be able to expand downward a little better if I do this to the splitters.

Either way - it will look kinda cool

~Dutch
Edited by Greywolf, Oct 17 2014, 03:40 AM.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

This is the one I have,

http://www.hejetproducts.com/product/hejet-plastic-welders/

I got it for around $100 when JC Whitney decided they weren't going to be a dealer anymore. You might check ebay, although one I saw there for $70 was missing the small nozzle. I have repaired several types of plastic with this gun and it is durable and effective, as long as you have good access to the seam on the back side. It failed at repairing a radio surround because you can't get the right amount of heat into the little cavity. I have repaired several bumpers and had them stand up to abuse. Made enough money fixing bumpers for other people to pay for the gun. I don't use the speed tip and it is not necessary, but would be useful occasionally to position the rod. You really have to be able to push the rod into the repair to get a good weld. The split in your bumper would be no issue to repair with this tool, especially since you are going to paint it. I do most repairs on the back and just close up the gap so they don't have to pay for paint and the bumper looks normal and is structurally sound again. Feel free to PM me for tips or questions.
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evmetro


I just repaired a long crack out to the edge, and reattached 2 mounting tabs with this. Not exactly a plastic welder kit, but it got the job done in in a way that is true to the Metro culture since I already had it... I used the sharp edge to bevel the crack, and then the flat edge as a hot spatula to smooth the hot plastic around. The inside of my bumper repair is a little rough since I added plastic filler (bits and pieces from another bumper), but the outside of that long crack did not even need any body filler.

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Greywolf
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I'll be damned! I have the same soldering iron in an old toolbox out in the dining room. I also have a few spare soldering pencil types and a big old heat gun (metal case - in '77 it cost me $35). I'll try to get my camera cable to cooperate one more time.

*What seems to be strange hours for me to be posting is my preference for avoiding summer heat and a lifetime affinity for nights and midshifts because it is peaceful. I am a "NOCTURNAL" person... This does not mean I am gothic.


I have a lot of misc. plastic inner and outer body parts out in the shop, and it occurred to me that an electric range/oven could easily maintain 350 degrees to melt scraps into sheets using a nonstick baking pan.

(I used to make things from acrylic tube and sheet AKA plexiglass a long time ago)

You don't want to use a gas oven because of the volatiles given off. But then - who has a gas oven in the modern age?

Looks like no more pics for a while, my camera patch cord has gone to pieces on me :banghead

EDIT: 12 noon, october 19th. Inner side and bottom duct templates made, construct brought back indoors for more work.
Edited by Greywolf, Oct 19 2014, 12:15 PM.
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Greywolf
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I tracked down some different tips for the weller gun - they will be on order at the first of the month. The "SMOOTHING" tip looks like it will be perfect, nothing more really needed.

Meanwhile I experimented with the solder gun as-is, and got a pretty solid but not pretty repair done. All of the zipties are now gone and the holes filled in.

The difference between my gun and the one in evmetro's pic above is that mine has nuts holding the tip in place, where the above gun looks like it has set screws.
Edited by Greywolf, Oct 22 2014, 02:13 PM.
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

Looks like the bumper could have a huge turbo intercooler in the gap :drool
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Greywolf
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What it needs is a span of 'expanded metal mesh' to prevent rocks and debris from slamming into the radiator and condenser.

I've been putting the word out to some of my buds that if they spot a piece about 3 feet wide, by 1 foot tall that isn't doing anything to think of me...

I also started thinking about the towing hook points. I could make a duct that helps direct air back into the brake rotors that also provides access to them in case of trouble.
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Greywolf
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Man! I was sweating a bit over the new camera. The new patch cable came, and it turns out the cable was all that was bad, if it was the camera-side connector it would have been more expensive to fix than replace.

Below is a pair of tools I bought 'way back in the mid seventies. An old weller solder gun I never use for anything, and a Dayton Heat gun that I'm not sure is even made anymore.
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Going one step further, I got this accessory tip from an amazon seller for about five or six bucks. It does such a smooth job there isn't even that much to sand when it's over - with practice I think I can make fixes absolutely smooth.
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The turn signals arrived, they can be connected as both turn and marker lights, but I think I'll set them up as pure turn sigs.
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Below is a panel I'm fitting to help support and stiffen the upper airflow duct. This thing IS going to be heavier than what was originally there, so I'm sandwiching the plastic it will be attached to between this piece, and an interior strip. I'm still not sure what I want to do about the front edge where it comes out to the front panel.
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Mythstae
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Greywolf
Nov 8 2014, 03:06 PM
Man! I was sweating a bit over the new camera. The new patch cable came, and it turns out the cable was all that was bad, if it was the camera-side connector it would have been more expensive to fix than replace.
Fantastic! Glad the cable was your only problem. It's nice when things work out in your favor. :)
Greywolf
Nov 8 2014, 03:06 PM
Below is a pair of tools I bought 'way back in the mid seventies. An old weller solder gun I never use for anything, and a Dayton Heat gun that I'm not sure is even made anymore.
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:drool It probably ISN'T made any more; that looks like a really nice heat gun!
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Greywolf
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When I was just out of High School - my first really good job was at an air-cooled VW shop in Spring Valley CA. I had it mind that I could maybe make custom bongs out of plexiglass on the side and sell them at swap meets or whatever :ashamed and I bought it off one of the tool trucks that came around

But it never really worked out... (the bong thing. Some stuff you just can't do if you are living at your folks house)

That one is exactly like the ones used at Progressive Plastics in Rockville Maryland, and I should know because my FIRST job that I got after high school was working at the US BONGS factory. I crossed country a few times back in the day.

Just a deep dark little secret from my ancient past...


Anyway, it's adjustable from 250 to 500 degrees F. That makes it perfect for bending plastic, and lots of other uses.
Edited by Greywolf, Nov 8 2014, 03:35 PM.
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Mythstae
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:lol That's pretty funny...
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Greywolf
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Yeah well ya know - it's there, and it's true. Suffice it that when it came right down to joining the navy as a last resort I was one worried kiddo. I knew they did background checks...
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