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Need to identify this part; Need to identify this part
Topic Started: Jul 7 2014, 04:24 PM (798 Views)
xt1956
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I have a switch of some sort attached to the firewall behind the throttle body. This is on a 1994 Geo Metro base model 5 spd. One of the hoses broke off with a piece of the plastic inside. I need to know what part this is and the part number if possible. Also, does this switch snap out of the metal housing? I am unable to loosen the screws that hold it to the bracket on the firewall, so I can't look for the part number on the back of the part.

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Memphis metro


Evap cannister purge valve. Look here http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=882266&t=4464045

A walk around your local junkyard would likely be the easiest way to obtain one or post a wanted thread in the wanted section and someone will likely help you out. As for removing those screws, be sure you are using a good fitting screwdriver and tap the screwdriver lightly to break them loose. A impact screwdriver if they are really hard or drill or cut the heads off. Or if looks mean nothing to you. Just leave it and tie the new one to it and connect your hoses and wiring connector to your new one and leave the old one hanging. A little manly help might be your best option to get those screws removed.
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xt1956
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Appreciate the info! I did all I could to try to remove the screws. Liquid wrench didn't help, and vice grips kept slipping off. The problem was the tip of my screwdriver was slipping in the slots. It wasn't a tight fit. I tried 3 different Phillips screwdrivers and couldn't get the screws to budge. I was just at the pull & pay in Orlando yesterday getting some items for my other car, but they didn't have a single Metro in the yard. I will put the word out. Thanks again!
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Memphis metro


Just to tell you of a tool that helps in these kinds of situations, I will show you this youtube video about how to use a impact screwdriver.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og0wilzMtXY

You have probably seen the commercial on tv that talks about screw extractors. I have not used them so I cannot speak as to their effectiveness but here they are as well.

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/2011/03/grabit-screw-extractor/

As for your car, if I were you I would consider taking it to autozone and asking someone working at the counter if they would break the screws loose for you so you can remove them.
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4950cycle
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That if you didn't know already is you evap canister purge valve. The tit that's busted off should have a hose connected to it that go'es to the bottom of your throttle body / intake manifold. With that open without at least having it being pinched off (the hose from your throttle body to this part) causes a major vacumme leak. This should at very least make your Metro idle high or maybe not even run ? Hows the geo running with this part busted ? Hows the motor act while running ?
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xt1956
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What happened was I just got my car back from having the transmission rebuilt (by j63812f- who did an excellent job by the way) and reinstalled. I got home ok, shifting great and all. The next day I was on my way out and ran back into the house for something and left the car running, and when I got back out to the car, the idle was surging, high to low, high to low, in a cycle. So I ran my errand with my other car. The next day the Geo started up ok so I drove it down the highway 50 miles to Tampa and got there without incident. When I got in the car to come back home, the temp gauge was moving up. My coolant was okay, but the fan was not turning, so I shut off the a/c and tried to make it home. I had the windows cracked and after driving about 5 miles I could smell something burning, so I pulled off at a rest area. As I was coasting in, the idle started cycling again like before. I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. When I started it up again, it was at like 3500 RPM and sounded like I had my foot on the gas down to the floor, so I shut it off and had it towed home. It was a Friday night so there was no shop to drop it off at. We thought the problem was the throttle body so I changed out the throttle body with the help of Geo Glenn. It wasn't until I was installing it and hooking all the hoses back up that I noticed that little hose was disconnected and the plastic nozzle was broken off inside the hose. I had taken photos before swapping out the throttle body so I would make sure I hooked everything back up correctly and when I looked back at the first photos I took, that hose was already broken off, so maybe that was the cause of the idle problem. I did have other idle issues 5 years ago before the car broke down & needed an engine & transmission. My mechanic had screwed around with adjusting the idle & never got it right, so I probably needed another throttle body anyway. I ordered a used vapor canister purge valve for cheap today, so once I get it on, I can check the idle. But I will still need another fan or else the car is gonna overheat. When my mechanic put in the used engine & transmission, afterward the fan stopped turning on when it was supposed to and he couldn't figure out how to fix it, so he hard-wired it to come on when I turned the car on. So the fan is gonna be another issue I am going to have to deal with.
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Greywolf
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Mostly Harmless

For what it's worth - THIS is what Chiltons thinks the circuit for your fan looks like:

Posted Image

1) Why there should be a Radiator Fan Motor Switch in the circuit I have no idea. Realistically it should be a temp sensor on the engine
2) The relay or the fuse might be possible causes, but the fuse is unlikely if the ignition works.
3) The fusible link should only go bad if the motor burns out or the wire shorts somewhere.

Of them all - I would figure the relay as the bad actor. Whoever looks at it in detail should trace 12 volt availability from point to point.

If the fan has 12V and won't turn (assuming a good ground) it's fried.
Edited by Greywolf, Jul 12 2014, 09:55 PM.
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don_dowdy
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To use an impact scredriver you would probably have to pull the engine. No room to swing the hammer otherwise. :)
You can try using a screwdriver bit in a socket, that gives quite a bit more leverage and fits in tight spots.
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xt1956
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Greywolf
Jul 12 2014, 09:42 PM
For what it's worth - THIS is what Chiltons thinks the circuit for your fan looks like:

Posted Image

1) Why there should be a Radiator Fan Motor Switch in the circuit I have no idea. Realistically it should be a temp sensor on the engine
2) The relay or the fuse might be possible causes, but the fuse is unlikely if the ignition works.
3) The fusible link should only go bad if the motor burns out or the wire shorts somewhere.

Of them all - I would figure the relay as the bad actor. Whoever looks at it in detail should trace 12 volt availability from point to point.

If the fan has 12V and won't turn (assuming a good ground) it's fried.
I got the throttle body swapped out. Now waiting on the radiator fan, which should arrive mid-week. Thanks for the diagram & the tips!
Edited by xt1956, Jul 19 2014, 06:09 PM.
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