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No torque wrench available for 11ft.lb water pump bolts & 17 ft. lb water pump pulley bolts
Topic Started: Jul 21 2014, 11:44 AM (2,755 Views)
bluestone
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I'm replacing the waterpump on my 92 3cyl. Geo and the torque for the water-pump-to-engine-block bolts is 11ft-lbs. and the torque for the water-pump pulley bolts is 17 ft-lbs. according Haynes. The torque wrench I have goes down to only 20 ft-lbs and autozone does not provide a loan-tool torque wrench that goes any lower.
What solutions work for this situation where no torque wrench for that low torque is immediately available?
Thank you.
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Old Man


bluestone
Jul 21 2014, 11:44 AM
What solutions work for this situation where no torque wrench for that low torque is immediately available?
Thank you.
Inch/pound torque wrenches are available for cheap on the internet. If you cant wait for delivery then go to Local stores and ask for purchase price.

To change Foot/pounds to inch/pounds you must multiply by 12 so your 17 foot/pound measurement will become 204 inch/pounds
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Yep, you need an Inch Pound Torque wrench. :thumb

The FSM, factory service manual says this. :news

Water Pump to Block----------------------------------------115 in-lbs
Water Pump Pulley Bolts----------------------------------17 – 18 I question this! 12 is plenty(144 in-lbs)
Thermostat Housing-----------------------------------------15 (180 inch pounds)
Thermostat Housing to Block------------------------------20
Coolant Inlet Pipe Nuts-------------------------------------14 (168 in-lbs)

:gamerz :cheers
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bluestone
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Whoa! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! This is very essential info that I had not anticipated! I've been learning as I go along and the generous and patient help of the more experienced GeoMetro owners on this forum here has led me to suspect that there IS a difference between GeoMetro owners and the rest of the I-don't-give-a-damn world! :P
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perfesser
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Elite Member - Former Metro owner

When I was rebuilding my engine, I bought both a 3/8" inch-pound and a 3/8" foot-pound torque wrench. My 1/2" torquer lacked the precision for torquing camshaft caps and other important stuff. So now I have the full spectrum covered. Just be sure that what you're buying is actually the torque wrench you need.

The cost of a new torque wrench pales when compared to the cost of an engine failure due to leaking (too little torque) or broken (too much torque) fasteners!
Edited by perfesser, Jul 21 2014, 12:38 PM.
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rmcelwee
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I believe torque wrenches are designed so that you have to hold them in a specific place (length from head) to get the selected torque. Moving your hand away from the designated handle (closer to or further away from the correct place) should change the torque. There should be someone here that could help you figure out how to get 17 ft/# from a 20 ft/# wrench.


One caveat - I own several beam type wrenches and two clicker type wrenches. The clickers were from HF and I have had one of them fail briefly. 17 ft/# is not much torque so if it feels wrong (won't click) STOP before you break something.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

man, for small torque applications i don't even worry with a torque wrench. :P

i have calibrated forearm and wrist muscles. ;)

17 ft/lbs is about all you can generate with a 10mm wrench. you don't need to crank on water pump bolts or water pump pulley bolts anyway. just snug them up.
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perfesser
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Elite Member - Former Metro owner

t3ragtop
Jul 21 2014, 04:23 PM
man, for small torque applications i don't even worry with a torque wrench. :P

i have calibrated forearm and wrist muscles. ;)

17 ft/lbs is about all you can generate with a 10mm wrench. you don't need to crank on water pump bolts or water pump pulley bolts anyway. just snug them up.
I agree, but if the man feels the need to ask the question, it's entirely possible he hasn't had the chance to develop that muscle calibration like you and I have. Better to work to the specs than to screw it up! I can respect a novice asking before he gets into trouble!! (That (asking) is so rare anyway, we need to encourage more of it!!) :D :D
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

you betcha'. ;)

a more "calibrated response" - 17 ft/lbs won't be exceeded if you use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket or a regular 10mm combination wrench on the boxed side.

on the water pump to the block, it's more important to have all the fasteners close to the same tightness. on the water pump pulley, the bolts thread into a steel flange and as long as the pulley installs nice and flat against the flange that drives the impeller, you're good to go.
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bluestone
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I tried the 12 ft-lbs recommended by Snowfish, rather than the 17-18 ft-lbs listed in Haynes on "Torque specifications" p. 3-1. I converted the 12 ft-lbs to 144 in-lbs and it still sheared. My concern is that even 144 in-lbs maybe too much for the bolts or do similar flukes occur? I hadn't reached torque when it happened. The problem now is finding a replacement bolt but hopefully, through this forum, I might be able to. If not, is there a "generic bolt" for this particular part?
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David95237


Just take a sample down to the hardware store and match it up. they are 6 mm not sure how long.
Edited by David95237, Jul 22 2014, 01:31 PM.
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socal geo garage
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Sears has one for 23 dollars bar type guage.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

you are making this way harder than it needs to be. ;)

if you use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket and just draw all the bolts down evenly until they are snug, you won't snap any bolts.

i have built a bunch of g family engines and changed 50 or so water pumps and i have never snapped a bolt or had a failure even though i never used a torque wrench.

there's no need to pull on that wrench until the bolts scream to do that job! :D
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rmcelwee
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bluestone
Jul 22 2014, 01:27 PM
I tried the 12 ft-lbs recommended by Snowfish, rather than the 17-18 ft-lbs listed in Haynes on "Torque specifications" p. 3-1. I converted the 12 ft-lbs to 144 in-lbs and it still sheared. My concern is that even 144 in-lbs maybe too much for the bolts or do similar flukes occur? I hadn't reached torque when it happened. The problem now is finding a replacement bolt but hopefully, through this forum, I might be able to. If not, is there a "generic bolt" for this particular part?
As I said yesterday " 17 ft/# is not much torque so if it feels wrong (won't click) STOP before you break something. " Yes, it is easy to be an armchair quarterback. Unlike T3Ragtop I have snapped a ton of bolts. We've all been there and it always sucks.

Anyway, there are markings on the head of bolts that tell what strength/grade they are. My guess is that it is not some super strong bolt but if it is you might want to get one with the same markings.

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don_dowdy
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Harbor Freight has a 1/4" Torque Wrench.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
But I'm like t3ragtop. I just use a box end wrench.
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