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2001 timing belt questions
Topic Started: Jul 23 2014, 05:00 PM (1,297 Views)
Jess
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Hey guys! I have been poking around this site for a few days and it has been a lot help to me. I have learned so much more about my car!

Here is my scenario:

I have a 2001 Chevy Metro that I purchased 11 months ago. At the time of purchase, the timing belt, water pump, a/c and alternator belts, spark plugs, and O2 sensor were all replaced. since that time I have had a rough idle and a cylinder #2 misfire off and on. Replaced the spark plugs again but saw no change.

Fast forward to now- the timing belt has gone out again. It has eaten through the cover and the belt is exposed. I can't understand why, other than that the tensioner was not replaced by the shop when the belt was replaced months ago.

Since the car has 240,000 miles, I wanted to research if it was even worth replacing the timing belt. Shops were quoting me $750 for the job and warned me that with an interference engine I would likely be looking at a 3,000 valve replacement. Obviously not worth the value of the car.

I have now discovered through this site and Wikipedia that these cars have a non-interference engine. (this IS the case, right?) My question is that most auto parts stores have the timing belt kit for this car listed as for an interference engine. Will this type of belt and tensioner still work for this car? Or can somebody point me in the right direction of what to buy?

Edited by Jess, Jul 23 2014, 05:05 PM.
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allmountain40
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What engine do you have? 3 cylinder or 4?
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Jess
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4 cylinder
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allmountain40
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3 cylinder is non inetrference. I am not quite sure about the 4 cylinder, haven't dealt much with those. I know the G13B (swift GTi engine) is an interference engine. can one of you G13 guys answer this? Anyhow, 750 is assenine to replace a timing belt on one of these. It is easy and there are plenty of guides on here to help you do it yourself. If it is an interference engine, you need to change your belt.
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Jess
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I am looking for someone who will do it for cheaper. I have seriously considered changing it myself using one of the guides on this site, but I don't even own the tools that are required. It might be worth it to at least try it myself, as long as I know which belt to get and interference versus not for sure.
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allmountain40
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Found this on a Suzuki site;
IMPORTANT: Your 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 1.3L Suzuki Swift -Chevy Metro engine is an interference engine.

So that answers that. Still, changing the timing belt on these, interference or not, is a pretty easy procedure. The 1.3 is a little harder than the 1.0 only because you have less room to work. tools required are minimal ( a 10mm and 12mm wrench, 10 mm socket and extension, 17mm wrench) you may also need a screwdriver (for popping plastic push pins) to remove plastic cover under fender well and you need your jack and tire iron to remove the wheel. The most important thing to remember is once you have timing belt back on, before you install cover, rotate crank 2 turns (cam will rotate one turn) and recheck your alignment marks to make sure you are not off a tooth. You could also look in the geo mechanics section on portal page to see if there is someone close to help or start a new thread titled help wanted in (name of town) North Carolina. you should be able to get help from someone on here. :thumb
Edited by allmountain40, Jul 23 2014, 07:51 PM.
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2000Firefly1.3L
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Bullshit. All of the G series engines are non-interference. Set the first cylinder to TDC, set your E notch on the cam to the notch at the valve cover and your crank pulley notch should be pointing to the notch on the oil pump. there are many good threads on this forum on how to do the install with pictures and links so i suggest OP should go find them.
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allmountain40
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As stated above G13B DOHC is an interference engine. So Bullshit on your all G engines statement. There are 2 different G13 SOHC engines, an 8 valve and a 16 valve. I know the 8 valve is non interference, but was not sure on 16 valve, and I assumed that is what suzuki site was referring to. OP has found the guides, but has never done this before and is ASKING for help. Instead of lurking and jumping in trying to slam people, how about you try to help? Posts like yours are exactly why I was gone for a year, I see little has changed.
Edited by allmountain40, Jul 23 2014, 08:15 PM.
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Jess
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Thank you for all of your help, Allmountain! As far as I know, though, my engine is a SOHC. I only say this because from my understanding of the pictures on this site, mine looks to be a single. I could be wrong though. I will try to get a picture up, it is pretty interesting looking the way the belt melted away at the plastic of the cover.
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Jess
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SOHC?
Edited by Jess, Jul 23 2014, 09:36 PM.
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allmountain40
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It is SOHC. DOHC only came in the 89-94 Suzuki Swift GTi/GT. I did more digging and both the 8 valve and 16 valve are listed as non-interference on MOST websites. Either way, you should replace your belt to keep from ending up stranded on the side of the road. If you ask for a belt at autoparts store, you should get the right one just based on year and engine. They may list it as interference but that will not affect the part number (I have had autoparts stores try to tell me the 3 cylinder is interference). Timing belt replacement is pretty easy on these, but if you are not comfortable, I'm sure you can find someone on here to help you do it. 750 is waaayyyy to much to pay for a 1 hour job.
Edited by allmountain40, Jul 23 2014, 10:50 PM.
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Jess
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Thanks! I knew I was getting screwed with that price, after seeing how easy it looked to do. I have already been stranded with it as the belt is definitely broken and the car will not crank. Any thoughts on why the belt would break after less than a year since being replaced? I am hoping it is just a fluke and I don't have a more major issue going on.
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allmountain40
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You said it was rubbing on the cover. If so this heats the belt and weekens it. Also, if you have an oil leak on the front main or cam seal, this can cause the belt to fail prematurely as oil causes the rubber to deteriorate. Or if you drive like me, redline shifting all the time, they don't last more than a year. I just replace mine every fall. The belt only costs 19.99 anyway.

EDIT. just looked at your pics again and I can see where it has worn thru the cover. Usually a blet will wear thru a cover because someone didn't put all the bolts back in so the cover warps from the heat and lack of anything holding it in place to keep its shape.
Edited by allmountain40, Jul 23 2014, 11:42 PM.
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Jess
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Is it unrealistic to just leave the cover off after replacing the belt? I can't seem to find a replacement cover and clearly mine is broken.
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allmountain40
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Your belt will just wear quicker because of grit and gravel on the road will get in there. Check junkyards, you can usually come up with one.
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