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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 5 2014, 03:22 PM (478 Views) | |
| buford_jm | Aug 5 2014, 03:22 PM Post #1 |
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Well, I'm officially stumped. I have been through Blue a time or two, and not sure where to check next. Initially it seemed like a clutch issue, as I had to use more gas than usual to get any power, we were very gutless. As I was replacing the clutch, the throw out bearing looked like it had jumped out of place, and the clutch surfaces still had life to them. I ran along with Blue for a bit like this, until he died while my wife was driving. Tried jump-starting, didn't work, added fuel, didn't work, called a tow truck and got Blue into the driveway. While cranking the engine, noticed that there wasn't a fuel odor, and figured fuel filter could be the culprit, changed that, still won't start, still no fuel odor under the hood. Changed fuel pump, still no start. I finally got an inkling and opened distributor to find that rotor wasn't turning. Just replace timing belt, triple checked the alignment as described in the How To, still not starting. It's cranking over, getting fuel, timing belt appears to be adjusted correctly, what is next move? 95 Metro 1.0 |
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| ptcapboy | Aug 6 2014, 12:48 AM Post #2 |
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was your timing belt broken? have you checked for spark? I have found out by experience if your camshaft sprocket is 180 degrees off there is no spark-I had 2 marks on my camshaft sprocket 180 degrees apart- |
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| allmountain40 | Aug 6 2014, 03:43 AM Post #3 |
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Have you checked compression? If compression checks good and a recheck of timing belt alignment checks out, Another issue that pops up every once in a while is the timing belt gear on crank. If center bolt loosens, the gear will slowly beat key to pieces and also ruin key slot in crank. As wear progresses, car will become harder and harder to start as timing between crank and cam slowly retards as key and crank wear, eventually it will no longer start. If after double checking your timing belt alignment you still have the same problem, try advancing cam gear one tooth. If car starts you definitely have a messed up key and/or crank slot. I have had it happen to me. |
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| Old Man | Aug 6 2014, 03:56 AM Post #4 |
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double check your timing (with an open mind that it might be off) go here and scroll down to the 4th and 5th pic: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/1/ |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 6 2014, 04:33 AM Post #5 |
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Pull the spark plugs and see what they look like. Are the wet with fuel? Are they fouled with oil? Are they nice and clean and gapped right? Not that they are the problem but they can tell you a lot about what your engine is doing. Have you ever done a tuneup on the engine? Check and recheck the timing marks. How many miles on the engine? Does it smoke? How did it run before the timing belt broke. Now you have the timing belt replaced, you should verify your fuel pump replacement was correct and verify you are indeed getting fuel to the throttle body. Remove the fuel line to the throttle body and turn the switch on and see if fuel is indeed pumping fuel to the throttle body when ignition key is turned on. Maybe something was not right in the fuel pump replacement. Do the compression test. Next steps in order 1) Check and recheck the timing marks. Crank gear and cam gear marks. If not sure, take a picture and post it for us to see and we can tell you if it is right or not. 2) Remove inlet fuel line to throttle body and turn switch on. Fuel getting there? 3) Remove spark plugs and inspect. Check for spark at plugs while cranking engine. 4) Do an engine compression test |
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| buford_jm | Aug 17 2014, 10:43 PM Post #6 |
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It would appear that there are 2 possible timing marks for the camshaft, and the one that it needs to be set to is the one that says 80C, not 60A. All is on the right path now, thanks to all for the input and advice. |
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| rv93 | Aug 22 2014, 11:16 PM Post #7 |
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make sure your bottom timing gear is tight and in good shape. i bought mine with a bad one. it ran like crap, then stopped running altogether. |
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