Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
update on no start; no start
Topic Started: Aug 9 2014, 06:27 PM (1,417 Views)
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
ok my 98 chevy metro ran great for 2 miles then 9 miles let idle for about 10 min to 15 min thought i got the stall and no start fixed hoped in car took it to a gas station didn't fill it all the way up put 9 gallons in it drove about 1 mile started to run like i had it in the wrong gear stalled was able to start right back up when i got it home would idle but would surge moved the injector wires around would stop surging then start back up would this be due to faulty electrical wiring some one please help this is driving me mad :banghead
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
ok let the motor cool down for 2 hrs started right up seems to run just slightly rough i am going to put new plugs in it and see what happens if anyone can help it would be great thanks
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

It also could be a clog in the fuel system. Did you confirm the screen was on the fuel pump? And there was no crap in the bottom of the fuel tank? If it has a fuel filter, (not sure what year they dropped them) has it been replaced? Clean the injector and check the fuel pressure. Probably not a bad idea to check the compression as well.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
no fuel filter screen is on fuel pump nothing in bottom of tank took out plugs late last night they were fouled black as the night fuel did spray out when i turned on the ignition will check fuel pressure as well and will be pulling the injectors as well to see what thay look like
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
ok cleaned the plugs # 1 plug is wet and # 2 plug fouled again replacing plugs and going to check injectors
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
can someone help put in 4 new plugs ran great the car is a man tranny would jump while driving like i put it in the wrong gear it also stalls but can start right back up can anyone help thanks
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

Time for a compression check. Also some 4 cyl have to have the valves adjusted on occasion, not sure which years that applies to.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
ok compression is 120 to 130 on all so thats good it does smoke on start up then goes away maybe the valves need to be adjusted
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

Actually those are pretty low. Did you do the test with the throttle wide open? Generally Metros will run down to about 90 psi but good compression numbers are up around 200.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
tested it with it closed it has 212000 plus for milage i got some used injectors and fuel pressure reg wiring to the injectors will install injector and reg tomarrow to see what happens hope that works and on the compression test i only cranked the car for a couple of sec if that matters let me know
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
also when i pulled new plugs out they looked good nothing abnormal about them thats after 12 to 15 miles of driving which they should of showed something
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


Here is a link for how to do a compression test.

http://geometroforum.com/topic/2574993/1/

Was the engine running rich but not now?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crazywolf
New Member
[ *  * ]
ok thank will have to redo it later tonight just got off work :thumb
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


120 - 130 with the throttle closed is probably alright, more like 160 - 170 when done properly. Valves can be adjusted, but I doubt that has anything to do with your problem. Smoke on startup is usually valve seals. Bad for the cat, but it won't hurt anything as long as you keep an eye on the oil level.

Your "come and go" problem sounds electrical to me. Unplug every connector you can find and plug it back in. Then find all the ground wires, loosen them and tighten them back up again. Main computer and sensor ground is on the driver's side of the engine head, at the Camshaft Position Sensor housing. Some 98's had the coils mounted there, some had them on the plugs.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
myredvert
Member Avatar
myredvert

Quote:
 
i only cranked the car for a couple of sec if that matters let me know
The engine should be cranked only long enough for the compression to build as high as it will build, so this is one of those things where you need to observe the gauge while it's cranking (if possible) to see when the reading stabilizes.

Shouldn't take much more than 3-5 seconds or so. Crank long enough to ensure you get the highest stabilized reading it will produce, without cranking too much longer than it needs to get there.
Edited by myredvert, Aug 15 2014, 05:00 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply