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| 95 metro lsi manual 1.0 3Cyl no spark, no check engine light | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 15 2014, 10:03 AM (2,599 Views) | |
| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 10:03 AM Post #1 |
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Metro Newbie
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Hello all, I have a 95 lsi 1.0 that died on my girlfriend when she stopped at a light. we brought it to the house and while i was at work she replaced the fuel pump, still no go. I got home and replaced the cap and rotor, ignition coil and cables. still no go, I then checked my timing belt and decided to replace it, it turned on, i shut it off and put everything back together, then tried to start and same problem. I check for spark and dont have any, I figured since the check engine light is not coming on that my fuel pump and coil are not kicking in. so i decided to trouble shoot the ecm, I check cavity a2 and a15 on connector one (C1) going to the ecm with a test light and found i had no voltage coming in from the main relay. I was told to backprobe the main relay with a test light from cavity 3 but i am not sure which cavity is that. there is no marking and i cant find any info on it. On another note, i did clean the ground to the manifold, and i check cavities a13 and a26 at the ecm connector one and found that proper ground was getting to the ECM. any help will be appreciated. Thanks |
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| geogonfa | Aug 15 2014, 10:13 AM Post #2 |
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First off, Welcome to the Fun...now onto the problem...when the key is in the run position does the check engine light come on? and does the fuel pump come on for a few seconds?...and have you checked the distributor wiring...
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| Memphis metro | Aug 15 2014, 10:35 AM Post #3 |
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Koodos to the fuel pump replacing girlfriend! Keep that in mind. She might have made some mistakes. Could be an additional problem than the original problem now. Have you checked ALL fuses under the dash and under the hood? How was the car running before it died? Ever done a compression test on the engine. Low compression leads to all kinds of problems. Not saying that is why your car died but just saying. Cavity 3 is the white/blue wire. First check the f1 fuse under the dash for power on both sides of the fuse contacts. Then check the white/red wire at the relay for power at the relay. Then check the black/white cavity 1 for power when ignition switch turned on as well as the ig fuse under the dash.
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 06:51 PM Post #4 |
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Metro Newbie
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Thanks for the welcome. when the key is on the check engine light does NOT come on neither does the fuel pump. yes distributor wiring is good. Thanks |
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 07:20 PM Post #5 |
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Metro Newbie
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First off thanks for your help. havent done a compression test, car was driving great before it died, i removed all fuses, under the dash and under the hood and checked each one, they are all good. checked the white/red cavity 4 wire and it does has power, checked the black/white and it also has power. i also checked the wht/blu from cavity when i turn the switch to on and it also has power. I removed fuse and relay box from under the hood and all wires are good, now removing the fuse box from under the dash to make sure all wiring is good. |
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| dayle1960 | Aug 15 2014, 07:24 PM Post #6 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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Do the headlight work with the key off? Have you cleaned the battery terminals? Corroded terminals will create a no-start condition. Did you look at the Main fuse (large yellow) under the hood? Could be burnt. Have you cleaned ALL of the grounds? There is one below the rear hatch. Edited by dayle1960, Aug 15 2014, 07:28 PM.
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| Memphis metro | Aug 15 2014, 08:10 PM Post #7 |
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You should pull up the back seat on the passenger side and check to see if the fuel pump is getting power when switch first turned on. Pink wire I believe. This thread is for fuel gauge but the other wires besides this are for the fuel pump. Do you hear or feel the fuel relay click when switch is turned on? http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=881109&t=4464045 Or connect a fuel pressure gauge and test for fuel pressure when switch first turned on. http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=543442&t=4464045 |
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 08:19 PM Post #8 |
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Metro Newbie
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main headlights low beam and high beams are not working with the key off or on, the orange lights by the main headlights to light up. when i pull the headlight handle to spark the high beams they come on. cleaned all terminals, main fuse is good, cleaned all grounds. UPDATE. while running a bunch of test on the wires, i plugged the ecm back in and my check engine light came on for about 3 seconds then i heard a click like a relay and it shut off. I checked the fuse box under the dash and found that the headlight RH fuse blew. replaced the fuse and back to no check engine light. Edited by nvargas, Aug 15 2014, 08:20 PM.
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 08:23 PM Post #9 |
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Metro Newbie
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I do not hear it turn on, i am taking the back seat off and testing that now. i do hear clicking on the relay. I also noticed that the main relay is a bit hot when the switch is set to on. |
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 08:29 PM Post #10 |
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Metro Newbie
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took the bact seat out and check for power on fuel pump, no power going into it. |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 15 2014, 08:55 PM Post #11 |
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How did you test it under the seat? The fuel pump wire under the seat will only get power for about three seconds when you first turn the igntion switch on. Do you have a test lamp? |
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 08:59 PM Post #12 |
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Metro Newbie
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multimeter on it, while my girlfriend hit the switch. |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 15 2014, 09:01 PM Post #13 |
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Red multimeter wire to pink wire. Black multimeter wire to a good ground. (preferrably the battery ground post). Multimeter to 12volt scale. |
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| nvargas | Aug 15 2014, 09:04 PM Post #14 |
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Metro Newbie
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yup thats what i did, but if check engine light aint coming on that means ecm is not on which means no signal will be sent to fuel pump? right? |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 15 2014, 09:05 PM Post #15 |
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Go back and make double sure you did not leave a intake ground off when you cleaned them. Do these test,
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