Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
What oil do you guys run?
Topic Started: Aug 18 2014, 08:16 PM (4,293 Views)
elijah
Elite Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Not trying to be nit picky, but when it was ironic that I used gallon instead of quart, either way no biggie. The blind comment was based off of other info being said as well, that I addressed. I was just wanting to correct the terminology and make sure there wasn't any false, pertinent info being spread, as often does. Nothing personal bro.

Here's a good link, No I don't use amsoil. Just good info.
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Freeman
Member Avatar
The Family Man

Cubey
Aug 20 2014, 01:24 PM
elijah
Aug 20 2014, 12:49 PM
Oil velocity definitely sounds pretty ummmmm, like you don't know what you're talking about.
I knew what I was talking about. I just kept using the wrong word. Big deal. You're being REEEEEEEEALLY nit-picky if misusing one word is the only thing you can find wrong in allllllllllll the stuff i said in this thread.
I*

That's two things, at a minimum. :whistle
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
myredvert
Member Avatar
myredvert

Quote:
 
At any ambient temp, the lower the w number, the less resistance to flow at that ambient temp.
At least according to the SAE rating system, this is not true. The ratings refer to specific characteristics such as viscosity at specific temperatures (not just "any"), and there are two separate ratings for "higher" and lower" temperatures.
Quote:
 
I'm not sure I could ever think of a reason where it would be better to have a higher w number, anywhere. You?
Absolutely. for one, when the engineer who designed the system recommend it for a specific reason that I do not presume to know and understand better than they did. For instance, in the transmission of my JD manufactured garden tractor when "Bob" isn't offering to pay for a new transmission if I ignore their recommendations.

Whether or not I have a use for xW50 is irrelevant. What may be relevant is if you help me understand your position by explaining how your explanation explains why 5W50 would have "less resistance to flow" than 10W30 at any "ambient" temp, specifically at higher temperatures when the SAE system says _W30 will have lower viscosity at higher temperatures and therefore flow at a higher velocity through the viscometer than _W50. And vice-versa for lower temperatures where 5W_ will flow better then 10W_.

By the SAE rating system, at colder temps the 5W50 will have less resistance to flow, and at higher temps the 10W30 will have less resistance to flow. "Any" ambient temperature includes both cold and hot temperatures and oil will perform differently at each end of the ranged, depending on their specific 'Winter" and non-winter ratings - which may be a coincidence, but I think it might have something to do with why the SAE system is a "two number" system that does not make an "at any ambient temp" generalization - because it isn't true. Out of curiosity, does "Bob" actually make that same exact statement and explain how it fits the dual Rating System? Instead of having to dig through the entire website, it would be most helpful if you could provide a direct link to it if it's in there.

I'm not discussing marketing hype or old wive's tales, I'm referring to the actual rating system, and think you possibly may be taking Bob's educated generalizations to mean more than they do, then maybe even putting your own "spin" on them using some slightly "loose" terminology, and I'm hoping if you are indeed correct that you will kindly correlate your "at any ambient temperature" generalization to the "dual rating" SAE rating system that measures oil performance at very specific temperatures on two different ends of the spectrum for me.
:cheers
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Justahoby
Unqualified informant

Last few posts by myredvert... Tell you about oil viscosity .. Almost to the "t" . If you deleted most of the non sense in this thread , and left his posts, I could show you in my texts from college side by side, what he is saying is accurate. I would be all ears at what he is saying.

Ps:And I am quite aware what the w means, not my first trip around the oil block.
My personal preference for where I live is 5w30, the need for a thinner start up oil , except in December is useless, especially when the warmer viscosity rating is more dependent on VI improving additives
Edited by Justahoby, Aug 20 2014, 03:11 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Cubey
Member Avatar


Justahoby
Aug 20 2014, 02:58 PM
Last few posts by myredvert... Tell you about oil viscosity .. Almost to the "t" . If you deleted most of the non sense in this thread , and left his posts, I could show you in my texts from college side by side, what he is saying is accurate. I would be all ears at what he is saying.

Ps:And I am quite aware what the w means, not my first trip around the oil block.
My personal preference for where I live is 5w30, the need for a thinner start up oil , except in December is unless, especially when the warmer viscosity rating is more dependent on VI improving additives
What he and I said are about the same thing pretty much.... save for me mixing up the words "viscosity" and "velocity". I meant "viscosity" but my brain kept telling my fingers to type "velocity". :lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
cwatkin


I have been running the Mobil 1 0W40 European formula. This is the cheapest oil that meets the more stringent European ACEA specs suggested by Geo Glenn and MWebb. The best part about this oil is that is is the same price as all the other M1 products even though many will suggest it is quite a bit better. The base oil is supposed to be of a higher quality. It is my understanding that any 0W(anything) oil usually comes with a pretty tough base stock to provide adequate film strengths at such low viscosities.

These little engines seem to be hard on oil so I feel it is worth spending a little extra on the good stuff which isn't really all that much more than conventional oil, especially when on sale. IT goes for the same price of all the other M1 products when on sale at Wal-Mart or parts stores from what I can see. You can't beat this.

It was also my understanding that these cars spec 5W30 from the factory. I have been told that running 10W(anything) or thicker on the low number can lead to overpumping the lifters and burning valves, especially in cold temps. If you live in Texas or Arizona and/or do mostly long trips where the engine stays in a warmed up condition, 10W30 probably won't hurt a thing. It does sometimes get quite cold here in MO so I like the 0W40 option for both extremes. For now, it is projected to be 100 or hotter this week and next!

One of my Geo's started out burning a little oil but quit after one change of this oil. I also did what I have heard called an "Italian tuneup" on this engine. I don't know if the IT or this oil had more to do with the car no longer using oil but I plan to keep using this oil. The European specs call for a greater emphasis on cleanliness. This also means that if you do happen to have an oil burner, it will not foul emissions systems components quite as fast or be nearly as big of an issue for combustion chamber deposits.

COnor
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Cubey
Member Avatar


cwatkin
Aug 20 2014, 03:22 PM
I have been running the Mobil 1 0W40 European formula.

One of my Geo's started out burning a little oil but quit after one change of this oil.
Jumping to 40 weight might be why your oil burning stopped. Sometimes that helps to run a heavier weight oil on a worn engine, at least for a while. I throw in MaxLife 10W40 (or 10w30 if I find it) in my oil burning Dodge engine but then again it's a 35 year old 5.9L 360 V8, not a 22 year old 1.0 3cyl. It's a much more robust, heavy duty engine which a lot more years of age on it. It also probably has a lot more wear but it runs like a beast on the highway weighing about 6,700lbs, according to the title's vehicle weight number. I don't know if that's with full fuel, RV water and propane tanks or not. If not, add a two or three hundred more pounds easy.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
cwatkin


I think I might have had a stuck ring or two. It burned about a quart over the 1st 1000 miles on this oil and then I haven't added a drop for the next 1000 miles and the level hasn't dropped. Sure, it may be slightly worn but I think something came "unstuck" in the engine. It burned this 40W oil and then stopped all during the same change.

Conor
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Cubey
Member Avatar


cwatkin
Aug 20 2014, 03:50 PM
I think I might have had a stuck ring or two. It burned about a quart over the 1st 1000 miles on this oil and then I haven't added a drop for the next 1000 miles and the level hasn't dropped. Sure, it may be slightly worn but I think something came "unstuck" in the engine. It burned this 40W oil and then stopped all during the same change.

Conor
It's too bad they can't make transparent engine blocks and heads so you can look into them to see what they are doing without tearing them apart. :lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
ZXTjato
Member Avatar
bass heads

Posted Image

Yo, got oil? :shake
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
myredvert
Member Avatar
myredvert

Quote:
 
What he and I said are about the same thing pretty much.... save for me mixing up the words "viscosity" and "velocity".
I agree. I made nothing of the word mix up, just like I honestly thought nothing about mixing up gallon for quart. I never would have posted a word had you not been "wrongfully accused" of not knowing what you were talking about simply because you used "velocity' for "viscosity." :cheers

And I still maintain that velocity is a good substitution for viscosity. :thumb

What I learned reading this morning about the SAE system that there is quite a bit of similarity in the purpose of additives used in oil and the pour point depressants used in jet fuel to prevent gelling while sitting in tanks for hours on end at altitude - which also has little or nothing to do with its "flowabilityness" at higher temps.

And before I fogeeeeeet about it, I use the Valvoline Syn-Power in the 5W20 velocity :D that guy who rebuilt my engine recommended I use.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
cwatkin


I know what you mean. I did an "Italian tuneup" which means you basically drive the car like it is stolen in an attempt to free sticky rings. I basically ran it up to 6000 RPM in 3rd gear and let it slow down in gear. The closed throttle deceleration of engine braking is supposed to be good at freeing stuck rings. The oil consumption stopped after this trick. I don't know if the oil has anything to do with it or not but I figure a good synthetic will help prevent them from re-sticking. I figure that something worked if I went from a quart every 1000 miles to no perceptible drop in oil level the next 1000 miles. I had also changed every gasket and seal besides the head gasket so it wasn't a leak. It was burning although not enough to generate smoke.

Conor
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
elijah
Elite Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Maybe I need to learn something new then, is it not true that a a 0w-(whatever) will not move more freely than a 5 or 10w-(whatever) when the engine is first started up and cold, whether the outside temp is 30 degrees or 100 degrees? I'm only referencing cold startup here, where more wear and tear occurs then when engine is at operating temp.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
elijah
Elite Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
And as vert states, I'm in agreement with the operating temp number being as low as 20 as many new cars like to recommend, though that is only the case here in the states for gov mandated mpg specs. Most of the same vehicles outside of the US, the manufacturer recommends an SAE operating temp (the second number in the spec rating) at 30 or above.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
nathan298
Member Avatar
Geo Resurrector

I use Pennzoil synthetic blend. 5w30 like it says on the 710 cap. I usually use conventional, but the synthetic blend is only a dollar and some change more per 5 quart jug.

I use whatever filter I can find that doesn't say "Fram" on it, and change it every 3,000 miles. Why so often? Because my car has 220,000 miles and therefore it tends to dirty the oil rather quickly. :lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · The Geo Metro Lounge · Next Topic »
Add Reply