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| break in oil | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 19 2014, 12:54 AM (1,295 Views) | |
| freegeo | Aug 19 2014, 12:54 AM Post #1 |
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I remember reading that Geo Glenn used 3 in 1 oil for assmebly of pistons but what oil do most of you use on initial break in on the motor? |
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| Cubey | Aug 19 2014, 12:55 AM Post #2 |
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You could use... http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/break-in-oil-%28sae-30%29/ |
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| Justahoby | Aug 19 2014, 03:35 AM Post #3 |
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Unqualified informant
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Freaking wal mart oil! small cap oil derived from Werner oil. Cheap,decent...I use a basic non synthetic for at least 10,000 miles , nothing fancy, basic oil and drive easy, if rings aren't seeming to seat, then drive hard! First oil change well before 1000 miles get any rebuild coodies and grit out.. 3 or four regular intervals after that , buy the snake oil of choice advertised. I use either mobil1 or Werner oil lubraGold. I wouldn't make it more complicated than that.. |
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| myredvert | Aug 19 2014, 04:58 AM Post #4 |
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myredvert
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BIG mistake! Too late. The key seems to be getting and keeping the cylinder pressures up while keeping the temperature down in order to develop higher pressure behind the rings, to help them seat and wear the cylinder wall in well, while minimizing the potential for cylinder glazing. Use medium to higher load accelerations followed by deceleration in gear.Here are a couple of articles for you to consider that describe the concepts involved in engine break in and some recommended procedures. FWIW, a version of these principals/procedures has been used on aircraft engines for a very long time, where optimal (and timely) ring seating is critical. link>>New or Rebuilt Engine Break-in Procedure link>>How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear ! |
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| Justahoby | Aug 19 2014, 09:36 PM Post #5 |
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Unqualified informant
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Good point, and good call. Come to think why I never had problems on my engine builds I never really ran them easy. I always was aggressive from the start. Even though many recommend to break things in easy. If the rings dont seat right away the walls would glaze , and then possibly never seat. |
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| myredvert | Aug 19 2014, 10:12 PM Post #6 |
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myredvert
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Good thing you were a "do as I do, not as I say" kind of guy!
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| crispycritter | Aug 19 2014, 11:08 PM Post #7 |
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Member
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It is often said to vary your speed and avoid cruise control especially at first, but this is getting away from the original question of which kind of break in oil so sorry about that. |
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| freegeo | Aug 20 2014, 12:22 PM Post #8 |
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I don't mind the break in procedure talk. That would of been the next question. Do most just run the regular 5-30 conventional oil of good quality? |
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| cwatkin | Aug 20 2014, 09:16 PM Post #9 |
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I have always heard that a good conventional oil is in order for break in. My favorite conventional has always been Castrol GTX but anything meeting the specs of the engine should do. I have also ready about additives for extra anti-wear to add to the break in oil of choice if you don't buy one just for that purpose. I have read about the high but quick revs and then deceleration in gear. I have used it newer engines but most recently, a new to me Geo that was burning some oil. I suspect the rings were stuck as it has quit burning oil after this treatment. I don't know but suspect something worked. Conor |
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small cap oil derived from Werner oil. Cheap,decent...
The key seems to be getting and keeping the cylinder pressures up while keeping the temperature down in order to develop higher pressure behind the rings, to help them seat and wear the cylinder wall in well, while minimizing the potential for cylinder glazing. Use medium to higher load accelerations followed by deceleration in gear.


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3:49 AM Jul 11