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three into one.. actually happening?; taking three sprints, some money and oodles of time to make something awesome
Topic Started: Aug 31 2014, 11:45 AM (5,357 Views)
hdsheena
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Still new, but learning...

Yeah, I know all about that.. My car I sent to the junker had bad frame rot.
Internal frame spray.. I know everyone has their own preferences, but I need a starting point to pick a product!!
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CAMI MAN
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CUSTODIAN OF THE MR.SUZUKI CONVERTIBLE

I use Krown spray on my car yearly . :thumb
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hdsheena
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Still new, but learning...

The photos in this post ended up in reverse order. The comments go from the end to the beginning. Sorry!



All important!
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Removing the throttle body and head? All those hoses and wires!
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This valve cover did NOT want to come off.
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Disconnect all the things!
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Hoses, wires, tubes. All important!
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Goes to this plug which plugs into this one. This is important!
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This little black wire...
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Memorize all the hoses and wires!!
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Radiator is out, maybe?
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We labelled some wires. Mostly ones I already knew what they were for. Ah well.
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Different lighting to show detail.
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Closer from the other side.
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From the other side.
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Another shot of the same area, different angle.
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Hoses and wires. under the air filter.
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And more.
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More details of wires
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These wires go into the intake guy.
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Map sensor wire. This is important. Leaving it unplugged for months makes the car run funny.
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And remember where all this stuff goes!
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"Don't forget where these wires go!"
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Battery, battery holder and coolant resevoir removed.
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Hinge and dirt.
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From above.
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Passenger side hood hinge area.. I pulled off this rubber seal thing shortly after this pic.
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Hood hinges. Also, dirty!
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Couple more pics of the little screw windshield thingies.
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The pass side wiper holder.
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I don't know what these little clip/screw things are. Windshield holding stuff?
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Windshield wiper mounting spot, Driver's side
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I pulled the louvres off and the windshield wipers, to clean in there. There was all manner of wet and oily gunk.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

I have seen Eastwood interior frame spray/ coating used by many forum members in the rust belt. On sale on ebay for 15.00 usd. I am in California and will do mine.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Quote:
 
Map sensor wire. This is important. Leaving it unplugged for months makes the car run funny.
:rofl Posted Image I bet it does! :lol

Way to go after it. :gamerz Project is coming along nicely. :cheers
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hdsheena
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Still new, but learning...

So I pulled the drivers side fender off and there is a true rust hole under there :( how do I know if the area is 'structural' in the 'bondo repair isn't safe' sense?
Have pics but need to upload from my laptop or something. Phone won't do the forum photos
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Basically all non-body skin is structural. :smackface Question is, how structural? :hmm I'll wait for a picture to take a better look. :news One can actually "get away" with more than you think. ;) Great project. :cheers
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hdsheena
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Still new, but learning...

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The joint for the windshieldwasher fluid hose is right near this spot. Coincidence perhaps..

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Trying to see it from the inside:

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I think the black hole is the hole itself. This is where the light was coming through.. photos are hard!
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

Long as the electronics stay dry?????
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Piece of cake! ^o) Knock off the big stuff, neutralize the rust with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, Permatex Rust Treatment, Rustolium Rust Reformer, etc, fiberglass, grind, bondo, sand and paint. :gamerz
As long as that's it, you're golden. :cheers
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hdsheena
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Still new, but learning...

Welding isn't necessary here? Because it won't make the wheel fall off? Will it affect (significantly) structure in case of an accident?
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idmetro
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hdsheena
Dec 28 2014, 10:43 PM
Welding isn't necessary here? Because it won't make the wheel fall off? Will it affect (significantly) structure in case of an accident?
If you get into an accident where that's a critical factor you've got much bigger issues to worry about... No wheels will be affected by what you've got there.
Edited by idmetro, Dec 29 2014, 09:00 AM.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Welding would be the most correct answer. ^o) Be sure to remove the ECU though. That's too close for comfort. :oshit

Personally, if that's the extent of the rust, I'd clean it up & fiberglass as previously mentioned :thumb Impact protect would be better if welded. But not much. :shake

You've seen my Little Red with Heart project.

http://geometroforum.com/topic/3709763/1/

Still running strong. The neighbor drives the heck out of it and loves it. :drivin I'm really enjoying following your project. :popcorn
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hdsheena
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Still new, but learning...

So I've been working away at this without posting. At the point where I've got parts of the inside cleaned up and want to paint or.. Something.
I got a little cute sandblaster doohicky and it's pretty cool. Also using what Kirin calls a 'cookie disc'.. Like a scotch brite pad for a little tiny spinning thing that seems like a combination of angle grinder and dremmel? Anyway, it works pretty well for getting the rust down.
On the inside where the rust is very minor, I'm thinking to sand it all, rub the paint/rust off completely on the rusty bits, put rust converter on the rusty(but hopefully now bare metal) bits, then paint. Rubberized rockerguard like this http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rubberized-rockerguard-undercoating-0477935p.html
Holds appeal but I've read warnings about stuff holding moisture and making bad rust problems. Input appreciated!
Pics to come when I'm at my laptop later.
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M4tthewd
Matt

That's the exact same rocker guard coating I used. Works fine! Used it all on my vehicles. I wouldn't get the big can though, at the Canadian tire in Winnipeg, they sell a 550g container for about $10, but they also have a smaller can, 500g for $3.99. No joke! When applying the undercoat, I would recommend taking a wire brush to the whole underside.. Pain in the ass but makes sure there's no rust flacks or dirt that will ruin adhesion.
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