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| It ain't pretty(yet), it ain't fast(yet), but it's a CONVERTIBLE!!; A faded, rust-free Arizona convertible finds a home in Wisconsin | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 2 2014, 09:57 AM (5,352 Views) | |
| ZXTjato | Oct 3 2014, 09:19 AM Post #16 |
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bass heads
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I agree, a clean car has no smell. |
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| davegran | Oct 3 2014, 09:24 AM Post #17 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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OK, I've covered all the positives and warm fuzzies, and now I'll disclose what makes this a "Project Car". In no particular order:
![]() I then cleaned all the surfaces with liberal quantities of brake cleaner and starting fluid (ether) and filled it with polyurethane roofing caulk. ![]() I'll give it the whole day and then some to cure as it is in the low 50's and rainy around here.... Back to building the shop.... |
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| 1DCGUY | Oct 3 2014, 01:18 PM Post #18 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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OK, it's official, there will be a vert section at the Minnesota meet next year!! For all of you that are attending and don't have a vert, get busy, Slackers!! (Snowfish with only one Metro!!)
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| iwantageometro | Oct 3 2014, 01:30 PM Post #19 |
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nub
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| t3ragtop | Oct 3 2014, 07:52 PM Post #20 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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on my job i use an industrial strength microbial type disinfectant that smells like cherries. it actually uses little critters that eat every organic crumb they touch. for touch ups i like a squirt of ozium before i close my door. the next time i get in there's a very neutral scent. it's easy for a vert to start smelling like an old gym sock. |
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| davegran | Oct 3 2014, 10:03 PM Post #21 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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This just in: I used Loctite PL S30 roofing caulk because that's what Menard's had; and according to the data sheet, the So even if this "easy fix" works, it isn't a roadside repair to instantly get you on your way....I put an old fashioned trouble light with a 100 watt incandescent bulb right by it to take the chill off (down to 37° tonight) but I'll try not to touch it for a week. For you technical types, On a side note, I was surprised by the thickness of the pad under the carpet! No wonder the convertible seems so much quieter going down the road than the hatch.
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| ZXTjato | Oct 4 2014, 10:31 AM Post #22 |
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bass heads
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Maybe the pad in the vert has had less feet on it to smash it down. Also maybe since it's an Arizona car it has not had a bunch of water under there to further compact the pad. If it were my car tho I would scrape ALLLLLLLLL the pad off serilize the carpet pressure wash clean it super nice and install new pad with anifungal spray. "Edit" I forgot it's not 100° where you live.....October is "fall" not summer
Edited by ZXTjato, Oct 4 2014, 10:32 AM.
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| t3ragtop | Oct 4 2014, 11:40 AM Post #23 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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dave, your fix for the shifter spider will most likely have almost the same feel as the oem shifter. 28 to 32 shore a hardness is pretty soft. i used 80a poly on my last couple of shifter mods as well as engine mounts. the harder poly changes the compliance and conducts more vibration but it also very tightly controls movement or motion. in the case of the shifter the tighter motion control makes for more repeatable and positive movement. i like the less noodley feel. tied to the twincam power unit i get more vibration at the knob partly due to the decreased slop created by using ball bearings instead of the plastic bushings at the bottom of the shifter. the hard poly engine mounts limit movement of the power unit and that keeps the shifter mechanism's geometry the same instead of following the torque of the power unit rocking in it's mounts. dave, now is the time to consider everything else you are going to do to this car. it's a clean slate and your opportunity to consider almost every mechanical process. take time to think all this through so that you can plan for efficient re-assembly with parts you specify and order. i took a full 21 months just planning my blue vert project along with ordering the build parts. my red vert was a rolling build where i did work in stages over an 18 month period. after you have that garage finished i would suggest that you put that car up on jack stands and completely disassemble it. that takes hours. i would typically bring assemblies into my house where it was warmer and work on them until i had a renewed unit. i had stacks of better than new parts on my shelves in the basement waiting for a nice spring day to start bolting everything back on. don't forget metro mighty mouse's powder coating service.
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| whitetop | Oct 5 2014, 05:01 AM Post #24 |
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I Can't Find My Tent...
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Not a truer thing could be said. Every time I meet someone new in the Metro world I feel like I've met an old friend. There is something about owning one of these cars that makes you an instant part of a brotherhood of people looking out for each other and preserving a piece of lovable automobile history. Congratulations on the find. I look forward to seeing your progress. |
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| davegran | Oct 7 2014, 10:23 PM Post #25 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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I was in a hurry to fix the shifter so I grabbed the first poly product I saw. I have since found some better stuff for subsequent repair jobs. I would think that the Shore 68 might stiffen up the shifter pretty well but not transfer as much vibration as your Shore 80 sealer. It might work pretty well for motor mounts, too. Thanks for the outline of how you achieve such beautiful cars! Since we are short on working cars right now I will do a rolling build; but it won't be a show-stopper like yours or turbogts22's cars. I am instead shooting for a reliable, fairly fast, good handling machine on a budget.... Aiming for the highest fun factor/expense ratio that I can manage. I am really fortunate to have the combined knowledge of all you convertible owners who have already done everything imaginable to these cars. What a great resource! Luckily, I will have heat in the shop so I can work out there during the Wisconsin winters. I have installed radiant heat tubing in the slab and put insulation around all the concrete so the mass will act as a heat battery. Also, I am designing an interface to accept multiple heat sources. Wood boiler, solar, waste oil, wood gasifier cogeneration and electric backup are all on the table. |
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| davegran | Oct 8 2014, 12:56 PM Post #26 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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As a new convertible owner I have lots of questions about my '93. Here's a few:
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| myredvert | Oct 8 2014, 01:48 PM Post #27 |
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myredvert
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(link >>) (forum library) 92 Vert Handbook supplement Convertible top instructions begin on page 25. |
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| 1DCGUY | Oct 8 2014, 03:30 PM Post #28 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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There are 2 more screws on the other end that hold it in. You will need to take the header cover off, or at least loosen it to access them. Be very careful as it's very brittle stuff up there, ask me how I know.
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| Old Man | Oct 8 2014, 06:04 PM Post #29 |
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I have the top instructions as a jpeg file. if you want it PM me your email addy. I use 8 ounces of MMO in the oil at a oil change, and 4 ounces in a gas tank fill up---Check your oil after about 500 miles cause the MMO will go away and leave you a little low on oil. |
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| t3ragtop | Oct 8 2014, 06:07 PM Post #30 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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there's no difference in the dash cover between the 92 thru 94 hatchbacks and you can swap them. there is a difference in the steering columns, though, and they won't swap. on the dome light, there are 2 screws that hold the mirror under a little removable cover. there are 2 more screws under the lens. all 4 of those screws need to come out. to remove the trim cover at the top of the windshield you have to remove the sun visors and the keepers as well as the dome light. like dcguy said, that trim is sort of fragile so be gentle. there is no difference between the 92 and 93 verts and 92 and 93 hatchbacks as far as the engines. there are minor differences in the chassis wiring that are vert specific. you use the fsm for the specific model year and fill in the gaps using the vert supplement which largely just refers to the top, the brakes, front wheel bearings, and the sir (supplemental inflatable restraint) system (air bag.) edit - old man hit the enter key in the time it took me to hunt and peck my response in. ![]() on the marvel mystery oil, run a capful in the fuel tank for every 8 gallons of gasoline and 8 to 16 ounces in the oil at every oil change. i have used mmo in my personal cars for 30 years. when i had carburetors the mmo kept the working bits nice and clean. in my modern fuel injected cars the mmo keeps the injector pintles lubricated. mmo works great as a top end oil (talking about the top ends of the valves, lifters, etc.) i also use mmo in my transmission gear lube, usually to make up the difference after adding 2 quarts of syncromesh. the lighter oil will splash oil the transmission gears in very cold weather until the the gear lube warms up. it helps to make shifting easier when it's 20 degrees outside and keeps the seals from drying out but mmo's real value in the gear box is from keeping the gear stack lubed when winter cold tends to run them dry until the gear lube warms up enough to be thrown into the drip galleys. on the last g10 engine i installed a head on i filled the lifter pockets with straight mmo before i bolted the valve cover down. the initial startup used the pools of mmo to pump up the hydraulic lifters and that worked marvel-ously.
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