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| It ain't pretty(yet), it ain't fast(yet), but it's a CONVERTIBLE!!; A faded, rust-free Arizona convertible finds a home in Wisconsin | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 2 2014, 09:57 AM (5,351 Views) | |
| davegran | Oct 8 2014, 10:47 PM Post #31 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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Thanks for taking the time to respond, guys! Lots of good stuff for me to ponder.
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| davegran | Oct 9 2014, 12:42 PM Post #32 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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The questions just keep coming.... Something I've never tried is paint buffing. I was going to plan on a repaint down the line, but Justahoby mentioned buffing so I thought I'd investigate. Except for the fading, the paint is really in good shape with no rust, big dings, or missing paint. When it's wet with rain it shows its potential.![]() Is there any other way to evaluate the potential for buffing other than to do it? I know that it is very easy to wreck a paint job with a buffer and I hesitate to learn on a car that probably only has one chance to be buffed after spending most of its life in paint-fading AZ. turbogts22 is the closest member I would trust with a buffer and I could might be able to hire him to do it, but he is 3 hours away and pretty busy, although it would be worth my piece of mind to have an expert like him do it. Anybody out there learned buffing on their own? Would I need a variable speed buffer?
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| econoboxer | Oct 9 2014, 12:45 PM Post #33 |
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I am the one on the left.
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do it by hand- those variable speed buffers aren't for novices- you can burn a section easily because its so thin. that car is beautiful. |
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| snowfish | Oct 9 2014, 01:03 PM Post #34 |
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Basic GearHead
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I agree. Do it by hand, little by little, until you like how it looks. Lot's of elbow grease. Plan on about 4 hours, start to finish. Start here. ![]() Followed by this. ![]() Finish with this. ![]() And enjoy the view. ![]()
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| t3ragtop | Oct 9 2014, 05:33 PM Post #35 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i concur on the hand buffing and waxing. just remember, "wax on.....wax off."
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| myredvert | Oct 9 2014, 05:46 PM Post #36 |
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myredvert
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on the hand job recommendation. It's always best to get someone else who has already learned how fast you can burn through old paint than for you to learn it on your own with your own cars, especially your new pride and joy . Besides, you can always get it buffed later if you aren't happy with your results, or you have a different Metro with similar (red) paint you can practice on before attacking your new Vert that you deservedly have big plans for. Isn't it great to have a car that gets you so excited you can't even wait for the wax to be removed...
Edited by myredvert, Oct 9 2014, 09:13 PM.
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| Justahoby | Oct 9 2014, 05:56 PM Post #37 |
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Unqualified informant
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i bet a little elbow by hand would do wonders...
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| turbogts22 | Oct 9 2014, 08:46 PM Post #38 |
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Dean
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While I agree hand buffing is the safest option, I don't feel that machine buffing is something to be intimidated by. I have buffed many cars over the years and never once had a burn through issue. The main thing is to not start with a super aggressive compound. Also use light pressure, especially near edges and keep the machine moving. I just use an cheapy Black & Decker 2-speed electric buffer with either a wool or foam pad. Works great and saves a ton of time! |
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| Old Man | Oct 9 2014, 08:54 PM Post #39 |
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I have a better plan than any of you.....I just play dumb and have the wife show me how |
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| davegran | Oct 9 2014, 09:08 PM Post #40 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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Once again the Geo Village responds to a question with a comprehensive answer that has actually been proven in the real world. Hand buffing is a method where I could feel in real control of the process rather than trying to wrassle a buffer with a mind of its own.... I'm watching the Meguiar's clay bar video now.... |
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| davegran | Oct 10 2014, 01:13 PM Post #41 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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That's because you have skills!
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| davegran | Aug 4 2015, 03:23 PM Post #42 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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A couple of obscure questions for you 1993 Convertible experts: 1.) What is the manufacturer's body code? 2.) What is the 5-speed transaxle code? M58, MV2, or M42?
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| myredvert | Aug 4 2015, 04:18 PM Post #43 |
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myredvert
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I don't qualify, but since you said "obscure," I'll bite... ![]() Transaxles All 95 and earlier manual transaxles were RPO code MM5 (3.42 1st gear, same individual gear ratios as the later M58 RPO) All 95 and earlier automatic transaxles were RPO code MX1 (2.81 1st, 1.55 2nd, 1.0 3rd, same individual gear ratios as the 96+ M60 rPO) 96 and on manual transaxles were either: M42 5 speed manual (3.58 1st gear, 0.757 5th) M58 5 speed manual (3.42 1st gear, 0.757 5th) M59 5 speed manual (3.65 1st gear, 0.86 5th) 96 and on automatics were M60, same individual gear ratios as the earlier MX1 Body Styles (all years) M (or MR or 1MR) 08 is 2 door hatch. M (or MR 1MR) 68 is 4 door hatch. M (or MR 1MR) 69 is 4 door sedan. M (or MR 1MR) 67 is Convertible MS (or 1MS) 08 is XFi. MT (or 1MT) is Sprint 2 door MT (or 1MT) 68 Sprint 4 door Engines LP2ENGINE, GAS, 3 CYL, 1.0L, TBI, OHC, SUZUKI L72ENGINE, GAS, 4 CYL, 1.3L, TBI LS3ENGINE, GAS, 3 CYL, 1.0L, MFI, OHC, TURBO, SUZUKI LY8ENGINE, GAS, 4 CYL, 1.3L, MFI, OHC [edit] I apologize Dave for not answering your entire question. I may have seen MV2 somewhere associated with Metro data, but GM's Master RPO list shows "MV2" as being a manual, 6 speed, F19, 3.91 1st gear)
Edited by myredvert, Aug 4 2015, 04:51 PM.
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| 1DCGUY | Aug 4 2015, 04:45 PM Post #44 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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OMG!! You just entered MWEBB status with that post!!
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| davegran | Aug 5 2015, 06:00 AM Post #45 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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And bite you did! Very comprehensively! Thanks!
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Plan on about 4 hours, start to finish. 




on the hand job recommendation.
i bet a little elbow by hand would do wonders...
6:44 PM Jul 10