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| Bucking Metro | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 1 2014, 09:00 PM (2,336 Views) | |
| Idahogeo | Nov 1 2014, 09:00 PM Post #1 |
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Hello, long time lurker, new to asking for help. I just replaced the engine in my 1998 Chevy Metro, which has the 993cc engine. This was a Japanese exchange engine. I replaced about everything you can. This includes a new EGR, Fuel injector, fuel pump, strainer, etc. I have a "buck" often upon acceleration, cold or hot. I have searched the forum and tried about everything. The final straw was when I replaced the MAP with no effect tonight. Timing is dead on. It will do this even when crushing at speed (steady throttle). Got shocked when I grabbed the distributor when car was running. Mpg is 44-46. I am getting the low EGR code, but I have checked for vacuum leaks and like I say, replaced the EGR with a new one. I'm a longtime Metro guy back to the Sprint days (man I wish I had my Sprint). I am stumped on this one. I'm going broke driving that gas hog Swift of mine. Any suggestions? |
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| Mrbreeze | Nov 2 2014, 06:44 AM Post #2 |
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I know that when mine does that "buck" thing it's time to replace the spark plugs, what concerns me more is the leaking distributor, may want to investigate that.. You did jump the plug to check your timing right? |
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| Old Man | Nov 2 2014, 06:57 AM Post #3 |
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You said you replaced the EGR but did you clean out the EGR passageways? replace the dizzy cap, plug wires, plugs and rotor button--at the least it will stop your dizzy from 'leaking' |
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| Woodie | Nov 2 2014, 07:26 AM Post #4 |
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Are you using the distributor that originally came in the car? The distributor from the Japanese Take Out engine will almost certainly not work with your '98 computer. While poking around there, check the wire coming from the Cam Position Sensor inside the distributor, they sometimes rub up against the inside of the distributor housing and short out. Also, make sure your distributor has a good ground, there's usually a separate ground wire going to the housing. Your Throttle Position Sensor could cause a symptom like this, if it's occasionally telling the computer that the throttle is closed, then the computer will cut off the fuel injector completely. This could be either a bad TPS or bad wiring for the TPS. I don't think your TPS looks like the one in the below picture, think it's a different setup. Did you reconnect a bundle of ground wires to this bolt on the back of the intake manifold? Very common mistake. ![]() Edited by Woodie, Nov 2 2014, 07:28 AM.
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| Idahogeo | Nov 2 2014, 10:34 AM Post #5 |
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Thanks for all the suggestions! yes, it "bucks" without movement of the clutch. It is a buck, and it will do it during smooth cruising (constant at speed movement no throttle change). It has a new cap, rotor and plugs, but I did not replace the wires. Tomorrow I will replace everything for a try. I will recheck timing again. I did clean out passages of EGR, I had read the various posts here about doing so. EGR tests ok, but I can't clear the code, I think it is P0401. I am using the original distributor. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and vacuum lines. I haven't checked the TPS. I have some spare TPS'S on parts rigs so I can replace it. I assume it is easy to do? You guys have really go me wondering if I don't have |
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| Idahogeo | Nov 2 2014, 10:37 AM Post #6 |
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Continued. - a grounding issue. I think I will work on this too. Thanks again! |
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| David95237 | Nov 2 2014, 11:02 AM Post #7 |
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Bad spark plug wire. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Nov 2 2014, 12:23 PM Post #8 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Sounds like ignition cutting out. Or a bad fuel injector. |
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| Highwayman | Nov 2 2014, 12:24 PM Post #9 |
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Hey fellow Idahoan; I believe you are up north where It is always cold. I am in the toasty TwinFalls area. When I get those bucks it is because the water in my fuel filter is too full. I have to change my fuel filter once a year. Though my son never has to change his. Must be different gas stations. My son uses premium only since I overhauled his engine. Claims to get 20% better mileage on premium. I use only alcohol free fuel as mine is a 92, otherwise the service engine light comes on and car is hard starting and pings on alcohol fuel. |
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| Highwayman | Nov 2 2014, 12:37 PM Post #10 |
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I just remembered, my 99 and 2001 metro 4 doors dont have an external fuel filter so cant be changed. 1 will have to go out and look under the left rear side of my 96 2 door to see if it still has a filter bolted to the frame next to the gas tank. I am not sure when they stopped using an external fuel filter on these geos. |
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| Highwayman | Nov 2 2014, 12:42 PM Post #11 |
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just remembered, when my daughters 91 had stumble problems it was because the hot wire on her alternator was loose which allowed a symptom of a bad ground or low battery. I tightened the nut without shorting out my wrench then the car started running perfectly. |
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| Highwayman | Nov 2 2014, 12:47 PM Post #12 |
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Last but not least; check the fuel pump plugin connection under the rear seat passenger side as mine was burnt black when I tryed to unplug it to change my fiel pump this summer. turns out I didnt meed a fuel pump at all; just a splice/repair at that bad connection. |
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| Idahogeo | Nov 4 2014, 11:44 PM Post #13 |
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Well I added two new grounds, the first from the throttle body to frame, and the second from the distributor to frame. One of the two made it almost not run at all. Will remove the new distributor ground first. |
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| Idahogeo | Nov 4 2014, 11:48 PM Post #14 |
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I checked the wiring to the new fuel pump, it is ok. I changed the strainer in tank when I changed the fuel pump. I also saw my timing mark was "jumping" around. Any thoughts on this ( in other words, not staying static). |
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| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 11:50 PM Post #15 |
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You have to jumper a connector to steady the timing for use with a timing light. On the older cars, it's on the firewall. On the newer ones, I think it's hidden behind the glovebox?
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