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| Repainted Exhaust Manifold [With Pics] | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 3 2014, 08:57 PM (824 Views) | |
| GoingGranola | Nov 3 2014, 08:57 PM Post #1 |
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Advanced Member
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[http://imgur.com/a/Y9EmC] I am new to this thing so any suggestions are appreciated. |
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| nathan298 | Nov 3 2014, 09:26 PM Post #2 |
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Geo Resurrector
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Nice!
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| McZukee | Nov 3 2014, 09:31 PM Post #3 |
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Protagonist
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Looks fantastic. What solution mix did you use? Amperage? Polarity? |
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| Nappers | Nov 4 2014, 06:08 AM Post #4 |
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that is awesome, saw a guy on The High Road do that with a Colt .45 he found a foot or more under the ground and made it fire with very few replacement parts. Awesome! Let us know on above question. I would like to do that with my exhaust manifold. |
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| GoingGranola | Nov 4 2014, 09:20 AM Post #5 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54ADeB6V1rQ I used this video. 12V, 2A car battery charger. Get the manual one because you have to trick the automatic ones like I did to make them work. |
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| perfesser | Nov 4 2014, 09:45 AM Post #6 |
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Elite Member - Former Metro owner
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It's nice to see a new, innovative technique. If I'd known about this when I did mine ... |
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| arudlang | Nov 4 2014, 03:12 PM Post #7 |
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Andrew
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That is awesome! I think I might give that a shot I haven't put my exhaust manifold back on yet and have a few other rusty things that could use some deep cleansing. I don't have a charger that will work I'll have to figure something else out there. What paint did you use? |
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| GoingGranola | Nov 4 2014, 08:39 PM Post #8 |
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Advanced Member
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Hey Arudlang! thanks I used VHT High Temp (2000 degrees) spray paint from autozone. Only problem is, is that it started to crack on the mainfold in one spot. This might be from not "baking" it right away. I waited around a night or two before baking on my vehicle. I am going to try and spray paint it on the vehicle, let it dry for around 2 hours then do the baking cycle. We shall see... Another thing, if anyone knows of this. My alternator is hot to the touch after a short drive (50-100 feet if that) and also their is a deafening noise coming from around there. Side note. I took apart the alternator and had to solder one of the stator coils back in place. I feel like this noise is coming from the alternator from it either internally rubbing and creating friction or the pully is bad. I put a mechanics stethoscope to it but dont really know what I am looking for or nothing is obviously wrong. I also replaced that belt but still the fucking loud shit luls. The bearings might be out. It made this noise before I dissasembled and reassembled the alternator; However, was a little quieter. Anything on this is much appreciated. Edited by GoingGranola, Nov 4 2014, 08:43 PM.
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| perfesser | Nov 5 2014, 10:46 AM Post #9 |
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Elite Member - Former Metro owner
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Sounds like it's time to research the CS130 alternator conversion! |
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| arudlang | Nov 5 2014, 12:53 PM Post #10 |
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Andrew
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Bearings very likely. If you have any good alternator/starter shops around they might be able to fix it up for you on the cheap but if you have some spare money the CS130 alternator conversion perfesser mentioned is a great long-term solution for a car you want to keep around. Thats what I will be doing as soon as my stock alternator craps out. |
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| t3ragtop | Nov 7 2014, 10:02 PM Post #11 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i'd like to be able to use that technique on entire rust belt cars. ![]() the cs130 alternator mod is the way to go although prices have risen fairly dramatically. the good bracket and pigtail set is up to $55 with $15 shipping and the last delco-remy cs130 105 amp alternator with the corrct ear clocking and threaded hole i picked up was $100. the alternator that is loud and running hot is toast. change it before it kills your battery. |
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| GoingGranola | Nov 9 2014, 06:51 PM Post #12 |
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Advanced Member
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I found out it was a loose belt thanks to MightyMouse. Just put a crow bar and tighen it down and no squeal wat so ever. so happy |
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7:57 PM Jul 10