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| How does I Subwoofer?; Kicking and screaming... | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 4 2014, 07:14 PM (3,818 Views) | |
| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 07:14 PM Post #1 |
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I'm getting dragged into this amplifier and subwoofer stuff whether I like it or not. Doing an install for a customer; customer wants subs. I read that you don't want to try and run subs directly off the head unit, because of "clipping", which may or may not melt your sub(s)? Ok, fine. So, subs. Amps. How to install them. Etc. I know that subs need an enclosure to be mounted in. I know that amps need power cables run specifically for them. Preferably straight to the battery. I wonder if I can do this somehow without altering the factory battery cables... ![]() Give me a clue, but go slow, it's my first time... |
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| bikeAmusPrime | Nov 4 2014, 07:25 PM Post #2 |
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Find a ring terminal that will fit over the bolt of the battery terminal. Then run a 1 foot section to a (80amp or so fuse) then fun the rest of the cable through the firewall to the trunk. Find a spot to run a ground cable long enough to run to the amp and clean the mounting point and bolt it down. You can pull on of the rear strut mount bolts off and sand it down. Crimp/solder a ringe terminal and bolt it tight. Then run your rca cables and remote line. Basic amp install on a metro. |
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| bikeAmusPrime | Nov 4 2014, 07:26 PM Post #3 |
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You may have to drill a hole through the firewall and add a firewall grommet depending on application. Ie metros with AC |
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| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 07:34 PM Post #4 |
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This installation is not for a Metro; but all your points stand, regardless.
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| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 07:50 PM Post #5 |
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Customer possesses a single sub, but wants a pair of them. Sub currently existing: JL 12 W 1v 2-4 Example: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qnaUvp0Jz5J/p_13612W1V24/JL-Audio-12W1v2-4.html If we use that, we need a second one like it... right? You don't want to mix and match? Is that correct? And, customer thinks they will need a 200w-300w amp... is that correct? |
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| bkelly | Nov 4 2014, 07:51 PM Post #6 |
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Gear Head
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When sizing your amp make sure you go by the RMS watts at the given speaker impedance. That will be the true power of the amp, say for instance you have a 4 ohm sub you will want to find a amp the will come close to matching the rated RMS wattage for the sub. You will also want to know what ohm the amp will remain stable. Enclosures should be close to the recommended sizes. If you want to go all out on the enclosure you can take the T&S parameters and use WinISD to design a enclosure volume for specific needs. If you want more help just let me know. |
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| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 07:56 PM Post #7 |
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I understood almost none of that. The sub says it's 75-300 watts; ok, great. Top number is "peak", right? Ok, moving on. If customer wants TWO subs of that same kind, is a 300 watt amp the kind to get, or do you MULTIPLY, IE, need a 600 watt amp? I don't know how I would know anything about at what ohm the amp will be stable. Not building an enclosure. Will buy one. Crutchfield lists the ideal sealed and ported enclosure sizes, so, good enough. Get one that matches that. |
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| Cobb | Nov 4 2014, 08:04 PM Post #8 |
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BANNED
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So, you operate a fork lift and do stereo installations at your job? You have a lot to learn. You cant slap a sub into a box, the box needs to be designed for the subs spec and customers sound requirements. You got sealed boxes, vented, different order band passes, etc. Sealed is pretty generic and best for rock music for example and takes up less room. Then you match the amp to the sub, wiring to the subs power requirements and remote from head unit to turn amp off and on and use rca to send sound signal. Depending on how much power you may need a larger or even deep cycle battery, multiple batteries and even larger alternators if not multiple alternators. We talking about 40 thousand watts? |
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 4 2014, 08:06 PM Post #9 |
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Troll Certified
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Yes her first sub installation will be a 40,000 watt system. |
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 4 2014, 08:10 PM Post #10 |
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Troll Certified
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http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4LHohuNtpJh/p_13612W1V24/JL-Audio-12W1v2-4.html This sub? The fact that he wants another one is annoying because they don't make them. Anyway, once you figure that out, I would buy a prebuilt, ported dual 12" enclosure. To save time and money. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html Then I would find an amp capable of driving both. Something in the 750-1000rms category should do the trick. You want a little too much amp for the speakers you are driving. Less power than your speakers can handle causes trouble. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZZ5bkh9nCAG/learn/how-to-match-subwoofers-and-amplifiers.html this looks helpful. Edited by Coche Blanco, Nov 4 2014, 08:11 PM.
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| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 08:13 PM Post #11 |
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Cannery is seasonal. Done for the year. Stereo installations is a side thing I do. DUH, that's why I'm asking questions. ...right, again, why I'm asking questions. I did at least look at what is recommended for this sub. Customer likes metal and punk rock. ...right, hence asking about the size of amp necessary for the kind of sub the customer has... Not that much power needed, I'm sure. Pretty generic system all around.
Coche Blanco, your sarcasm is well-placed and delightful. Also, I am shocked - SHOCKED! That your first post in this thread isn't making the obvious joke about the last line in the first post. Did I make it too easy? |
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| Mythstae | Nov 4 2014, 08:17 PM Post #12 |
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I KNOW RIGHT?! Right, that was the plan, although the sub MAY come with a box? I'm not sure yet. Haven't seen the components in person yet. That box, though, IS a box I had looked at - and the volume is close to that which is recommended... Thanks! THAT'S the kind of specific information I was looking for...
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 4 2014, 08:17 PM Post #13 |
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Troll Certified
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My ADD does not allow me to read a post longer than 5 lines. lol |
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 4 2014, 08:18 PM Post #14 |
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Troll Certified
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 4 2014, 08:19 PM Post #15 |
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Troll Certified
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My information is based off of home theater stuff, so you may get away with crappier advice in an automotive setting. A 500 watt amp is probably a lot cheaper than a 750+ watt amp, so there's that. |
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