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How does I Subwoofer?; Kicking and screaming...
Topic Started: Nov 4 2014, 07:14 PM (3,819 Views)
Cobb
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Coche Blanco
Nov 4 2014, 08:06 PM
Cobb
Nov 4 2014, 08:04 PM
We talking about 40 thousand watts?
Yes her first sub installation will be a 40,000 watt system.
Thats what I was afraid of. :whistle

Sounds like she is on the right track. I just wonder why he wants a 2nd identical sub? He will notice much more from a bigger vs 2 identical subs. The bigger ones typically handle way more power, have a lower response range, lower sweet spot. :thumb
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bikeAmusPrime
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I have all of my stuff ready to demo. I have monster cable 4 guage cable and plenty of ring terminals. I have everything to run multiple systems. Just depends majorly on the budget. If you want I can send you my number and I can show all the different ways to run various components (amps and subs) or various vehicles. What kind of battery terminals do they have? Are they mounting the amp under the seat? Are they set on 2 sub drivers? Do they need massive power? Are there speakers locations sealed enough to get good sound reproduction?
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Mythstae
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bikeAmusPrime
Nov 5 2014, 05:52 PM
I have all of my stuff ready to demo. I have monster cable 4 guage cable and plenty of ring terminals. I have everything to run multiple systems. Just depends majorly on the budget. If you want I can send you my number and I can show all the different ways to run various components (amps and subs) or various vehicles. What kind of battery terminals do they have? Are they mounting the amp under the seat? Are they set on 2 sub drivers? Do they need massive power? Are there speakers locations sealed enough to get good sound reproduction?
I have no idea, haven't seen the car in person yet.
As far as I know, it's a 100% stock 02 Chevrolet Cavalier, coupe.
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bikeAmusPrime
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415345594&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEX8W/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Install-Cavalier-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL2EGM


You'll need to get a stereo din adapter. A plug adapter. A "amp installation kit" deck, amp speakers.

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bikeAmusPrime
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http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ele/4739632382.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/ele/4699663035.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/ele/4717390923.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/ele/4746425365.html

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Freeman
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The Family Man

Quick lesson, not sure if it has been covered.

Parts needed:
Amplifier Kit (easier to buy one in my opinion, 4 gauge should work)

Amp (The actual ratings vary, I suggest a monoblock)
These two amps probably produce very similar sound
3400W Boss brand
250W Kicker

Another matching sub (good luck. I have used pieced together sets with no real impact on sound though)

Ported box (trust me on the ported box! Any of these would work. Just use quality fasteners)

Single Port
Side ports
Ported with covers

Basic Hand tools

EDIT: See it is a factory radio:

Line out converter to add RCA connectors

First things first, disconnect the battery terminals. You know this if you have done any electrical work before (and you have!).

You need to run the wires. This is the most time consuming part. You need to run the thin wire from the kit from the radio to the AMP. It is just switched power that turns the amp on when the radio is on. You should also run the RCA connectors from the back of the radio to the amp (location) at this time. EDIT: Since it is a stock radio, you tap the line out converter into the speaker wire to add the RCA cables. You can still use the stock accessory wire for the amp to power on.

Then you should run the power wire from the battery to the trunk. There should be an inline fuse included and a ring terminal to connect it to the battery. You can definitely use an existing hole in the fire wall. All cars have them for the ECU and such. Some even have spare holes for things not included on that model. I use a metal clothes hanger and tape to push the wire through. You can also tape the wire to existing wires and pull it through.

The ground wire can be run behind the carpet in the trunk to one of the many fasteners. I suggest some 80 grit sand paper to get down to bare metal for a good body ground.

Wiring the subwoofers to the box is pretty straight forward, red to red, black to black. I would use 12 gauge wire within the box.

I also like to install the amp to the back of the box for a 'all in one' package. You can then run the wires from the box to the amp. I suggest 12 gauge wire again. The amp can screw to the back of the box

Now you can install the box in the car. Very straight forward. There are really only two options. Either it goes through the trunk or you go in from the back seat. The back seat usually has a bigger opening than the trunk (from my experience).

Once the box is in the car, you plug the RCA connectors in, the small wire is hooked up at this time also, and the power/ground are connected.

Then it is as simple as connecting the ring terminal to the battery and hooking the battery back up. The amp should power up with the radio (or a little after). Then comes the fine tuning of the amp and the radio. I tend to turn the gain up on the amp and my bass all the way down on my head unit. That way my mids and highs don't have to deal with any bass from the head unit and my subs still put out like they are meant to. You also have bass controls and a 'bass' remote with most amps. I find it useless. Run it if you want.

EDIT: Tell him to just suck it up, run 0 gauge wire and run an 18" Jackhammer sub in a custom ported box built to the specified dimensions of the jackhammer. Never look back. Also, invest in ear muffs. :rocker
Edited by Freeman, Nov 7 2014, 08:58 AM.
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pelplouffe
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Mythstae
Nov 4 2014, 07:56 PM
bkelly
Nov 4 2014, 07:51 PM
When sizing your amp make sure you go by the RMS watts at the given speaker impedance. That will be the true power of the amp, say for instance you have a 4 ohm sub you will want to find a amp the will come close to matching the rated RMS wattage for the sub. You will also want to know what ohm the amp will remain stable.

Enclosures should be close to the recommended sizes. If you want to go all out on the enclosure you can take the T&S parameters and use WinISD to design a enclosure volume for specific needs.

If you want more help just let me know.
I understood almost none of that.

The sub says it's 75-300 watts; ok, great. Top number is "peak", right? Ok, moving on.
If customer wants TWO subs of that same kind, is a 300 watt amp the kind to get, or do you MULTIPLY, IE, need a 600 watt amp?

I don't know how I would know anything about at what ohm the amp will be stable.

Not building an enclosure. Will buy one. Crutchfield lists the ideal sealed and ported enclosure sizes, so, good enough. Get one that matches that.
For what i saw its 300w RMS with a peak of 600w.....
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Freeman
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The Family Man

OHMs made simple.

Check what rating the subs are rated at. 300w at 4 ohm stable, etc. That is your goal for the amp, 4 ohm. When you buy the amp, it will have a wiring diagram. Follow the instructions to wire it for 4 ohm. Now that the ohms match, you are done.

When finding the 'right amp', check the ohm. If your speakers are 300w RMS at 4 ohms, you want an amp that produces 300w RMS at 4 ohm stable. Ignore everything else. It doesn't matter if it is 3000W PEAK at 2 OHM, you want the ohm rating that matches the speakers and the RMS.
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arudlang
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Andrew

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Yea, these days there's not many reasons to use more than one woofer.


:+1

Just give me one 2000w RMS 15 inch sub in a sealed cube with a little padding and a proper amp to drive it with remote gain control, thats enough boom booms to put a big smile on my face with the gain set low, and when some clunker rolls up with his two 10 inch pawn shop woofers making more fart noises than actual music noises, I crank the gain up until even they can't hear their own system B-)
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Freeman
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The Family Man

Well, if you go with 1 woofer, I suggest this amp:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-K0DNAjlipDG/p_113X5001/Kenwood-Excelon-X500-1.html

It is rated at 300w RMS at 4 ohms. That is exactly what that speaker is rated at and it should perform flawlessly.

Here is an appropriate box:

http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E12SV-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1415375559&sr=1-1&keywords=12+inch+ported+subwoofer+box

I'd still use the 4 gauge wiring kit. You can probably use a 6 gauge if you want. 12 gauge speaker wire may be overkill, but it won't fall short.
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Cobb
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arudlang
Nov 7 2014, 10:47 AM
Just give me one 2000w RMS 15 inch sub in a sealed cube with a little padding and a proper amp to drive it with remote gain control,
I went from 8 to 12 inches, big difference even with same amp 2 8s to 1 12. I went to 2 12s, maybe 20% louder.

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Mythstae
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bikeAmusPrime
Nov 7 2014, 02:35 AM
You'll need to get a stereo din adapter. A plug adapter. A "amp installation kit" deck, amp speakers.
:lol I DO know how to install stereos. Just not amps and subs. Yet. :deal
Nonetheless, thank you, for the helpful advice. If I didn't know it already :lol I would have needed to know! :lol
TurboEF
Nov 7 2014, 08:53 AM
See it is a factory radio
It is currently a factory stereo. Replacing the stereo is step one.
I already have a mount kit (DIN adapter) in my possession. Waiting on the special wiring harness, and the head unit itself.
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Cobb
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What about the oem speakers? I ve very happy with kickers as they have some low or bass in addition to some highs.

My main problem is amp mounting. It seems almost anywhere is in the way, under the front seats, under the back seats. Seems the best place is inside the dash somewhere. Id thought about doing that and buying a set of installation connections so the amp can pass through to the oem wiring of the car so I dont need to rerun new wire to all the speakers and back to the amp.
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Mythstae
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Cobb
Nov 8 2014, 12:24 PM
I'd thought about doing that and buying a set of installation connections so the amp can pass through to the oem wiring of the car so I don't need to rerun new wire to all the speakers and back to the amp.
...I've thought about that in the past, when ruminating on the subject of amps... :hmm
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Cobb
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Metronomicon
Nov 8 2014, 02:57 PM
Cobb
Nov 8 2014, 12:24 PM
What about the oem speakers? I ve very happy with kickers as they have some low or bass in addition to some highs.

My main problem is amp mounting. It seems almost anywhere is in the way, under the front seats, under the back seats. Seems the best place is inside the dash somewhere. Id thought about doing that and buying a set of installation connections so the amp can pass through to the oem wiring of the car so I dont need to rerun new wire to all the speakers and back to the amp.



Posted Image

Posted Image

What is this? A fan ventilated concealed spot for my compact Kicker 1000 watt amp? Don't mind if I do.

Problem solved. :smackface
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