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| How does I Subwoofer?; Kicking and screaming... | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 4 2014, 07:14 PM (3,817 Views) | |
| Greywolf | Nov 8 2014, 08:12 PM Post #46 |
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Mostly Harmless
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Keep in mind the power that will be needed. Power in watts is additive. If I remember right, the formula is voltage times current (amps times v) I'm not reliable tonight - budwieser does that.. But if thats true ten amps times twelve volts is 120 watts. You ain't gonna run this at a rate the alternator can deal with constantly. It just can't do it... 100 watts plus 100 watts is still 200 watts. The charging system in a metro or swift is limited, but extra batteries can soak up extra capacity. They would have to be given time for the 40 or 60 amp alternator to charge them back up. I don't think you can run a system like that continuously - but if extra batteries are in the loop it could run longer. ~You should think about a battery "ISOLATOR" which can prevent the main engine battery from being robbed of what it has to have to start the car if the audio system drains everything else. Also (from RV experience) use deep cycle batteries. They will not allow themselves to be drained to ruin - they stop discharging before damage happens EVERYTHING like that, has a price in terms of "POWER" or energy Edited by Greywolf, Nov 8 2014, 08:24 PM.
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| Freeman | Nov 10 2014, 09:37 AM Post #47 |
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The Family Man
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Take his word for it. I was merely suggesting something that had proper numbers. I have a 'BOSS' amp and it does an amazing job of driving any and everything I have ever hooked up to it. The rating is total BS though. |
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| nickb803 | Nov 10 2014, 02:55 PM Post #48 |
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NickB803
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For my 1994 I had the following: 4" kicker (x4) in factory locations 3x6 kicker (x2) in rear parcel shelf 12" Pioneer Champion series in sealed box (made to sub specs) Alpine MRP-500 amp (sub) Alpine MRV-F300 for other speakers 4 gauge wiring kit Red top optima cs130 alternator mod big 3 upgrade Best part is I have maybe $450 in the entire setup. Most things I got used or traded for. I didn't want to hack up my door panels etc for different speakers. Not winning any sound competitions but the music is clear, loud, and the sub hits. |
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| Cobb | Nov 16 2014, 06:07 PM Post #49 |
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BANNED
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I cant wait for the topic to change to walling off the vehicle and SPL and such.
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| Mythstae | Nov 16 2014, 10:14 PM Post #50 |
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Subwoofer install is currently on hold. And do remember, this isn't even for me. It's a customer car. |
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| Cobb | Nov 17 2014, 05:42 PM Post #51 |
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BANNED
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On hold?!?!?!?! Mutha&$#^%^ son &%(& (&*^&*()^ hold :banghead.
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| 92blumetro | Dec 20 2014, 11:38 AM Post #52 |
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jack of all trades, master of two
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my simple set-up is sony deck, infinity speakers (2-4 inch, 2- 4x6, 2- 6 inch) (deck powered) large power cable(2 ga) no fuse but instead an actual CIRCUIT BREAKER for that cable 1200watt d-class mono block, pair of OLD phoenix gold 12'' subs, factory built "wedge" box. no idea of dimensions of box, but I can make the system pound when I want, or turn them subs off to listen to talk radio. as for running the power wires beside the rca cables, I have had NO INTERFERENCE/ NOISE on the last few installs I have done....always did them separate before, but the last few I became lazy and ran them down the same side of the car.....but the cleanest installs are when you can remove the interior and plan out the install, and route the wires accordingly. its a 1400 watt, not a 1200 watt.....380 watts rms@4 ohm, 700 watts rms @ 2 ohm
Edited by 92blumetro, Dec 21 2014, 09:49 AM.
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son &%(&
its a 1400 watt, not a 1200 watt.....380 watts rms@4 ohm, 700 watts rms @ 2 ohm
7:57 PM Jul 10