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| 2001 Chevy metro start problem; Having trouble starting metro | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 8 2014, 07:53 PM (982 Views) | |
| Floopy | Nov 8 2014, 07:53 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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Okay, so about 5 days ago I could not get my metro started (yet again) its been in on-going problem but anyways. The car will crank and crank and crank and will not start, it will always crank and crank and start(takes roughly 1-15 seconds but it did start). Did quite occasionaly have white smoke come out of the tailpipe at start up. Now i get nothing. When i got the car back from the mechanic about a week and a half ago they told me the ecu read a check engine light for the throttle, they sprayed some brake cleaner or carb cleaner in it and got it to start right away. Another possibility in the ecu reading was the Cat. I tried spraying a little gas in the throttle body and got nothing today. So then i got the idea of unbolting the downpipe from the exhaust in case of clog in the cat. Still got nothing but it didnt hesitate it sounded like it really wanted to start then but would not crank over. Could the cat be clogged?? Any ideas ?? |
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| Floopy | Nov 8 2014, 10:26 PM Post #2 |
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Fresh Fish
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Another question im curious of im looking all over do they not make exhaust manifolds without the intergrated cats?? 1.3L engine |
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| Metromightymouse | Nov 9 2014, 04:54 AM Post #3 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Do a compression check (instructions in the how to section) and report back with the numbers. It's also a good idea to provide a full breakdown on what the car is. Compiling all the info here, 2001 Metro 1.3. Auto or Manual? What did the shop do? |
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| Woodie | Nov 9 2014, 07:49 AM Post #4 |
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Geeze Mmm, I'm just following you around and agreeing this morning. Compression check is a good idea, this is the time of year that all the tired engines decide they don't want to start because of the colder weather. The smoke on startup is probably valve seals on that engine, but when the seals go bad you're usually getting near rebuild time anyway. There are MANY things it could be, bad ground or electrical connection is a strong possibility. If your cat is built into the manifold, you have California emissions. Replacement is harder to find and more expensive. There is a cat free manifold available, but you'd need to modify the rest of the exhaust to match up, and probably extend the O2 sensor wiring to get to where the bung is, further downstream. I doubt your problem is the cat though, that problem will usually idle fine, but run out of power as you go faster. Take the O2 sensor out of the manifold and try starting it, if there's a clog, it will run much better with that huge leak at the O2 sensor bung. |
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| Floopy | Nov 9 2014, 09:33 AM Post #5 |
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Fresh Fish
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I will get a compression test done. and the car is a 01 chevy metro auto sedan. The last mechanic visit the shop cleaned out the throttle and tps sensor and it started right up apparently and a week and half later wont start again. I have a huge list of stuff that has been replaced in this car a new fuel pump was put in about a month ago. I also had all new ground wires put in. When i was playing around yesterday after i unbolted the downpipe and sprayed a little gas in the throttle it would crank much further like it wanted to start but wouldnt crank over. Could it possibly also be a crank sensor?? Could injectors also cause this?? |
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| Floopy | Nov 9 2014, 09:43 AM Post #6 |
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Fresh Fish
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Its currently snowing so i dont wanna go outside lol |
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| Greywolf | Nov 10 2014, 05:59 PM Post #7 |
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Mostly Harmless
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White smoke is normally coolant - check your radiator just in case. Old time smoke check chart: White smoke - coolant Blue smoke - Oil Black smoke - FUEL (especially diesel, but not this time) There five systems surrounding every engine... MECHANICAL LUBRICATION (oil) COOLING ELECTRICAL (Divided into charging system and ignition. You can crank it - so focus on ignition) FUEL This is useful sometimes in troubleshooting, because often you can narrow it down to just one of them. If a compression check is good - it means that one of the other four systems is at fault. The compression test verifies your engines mechanical system Does the car hold and maintain it's coolant level? If not - it could indicate a blown head gasket. Gaskets are forty bucks, last time I bought one. PS: I'm not impressed with whoever you took it to. Just sayin'... If it was me, I'd pull the head and look inside just to be sure of what I was dealing with, in particular because it is a northern operated car. People often get scared to do serious repairs in the north for some reason, where here we would want to know what condition the internals were in. I have worked up north myself, I was a Maryland boy - but stuff is just plain harder to do in bad weather. I remember having my fingers try to stick to metal in the cold Edited by Greywolf, Nov 10 2014, 06:19 PM.
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7:57 PM Jul 10