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| How to chose a manual locking hub?; Metal, nylon, made in malaysia? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 17 2014, 08:01 PM (543 Views) | |
| Cobb | Nov 17 2014, 08:01 PM Post #1 |
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So, looking at my options for manual locking hubs for my 95 suzuki sidekick ljx. Im not a professional off roader, not planning to go off roading. The auto lockers hang up and are a real fustetrcluck. The right one wont lock when needed and the left one wont unlock. I see online I have a few options. Warn is the most expensive and all metal and almost 200 bucks a set. The made in malaysia are all black, but nothing on construction, they are 100 bucks. Mile Marker makes a metal pair, but its 150 bucks. AVM is about the same, asked seller on ebay and he said they are pretty good, only a few have broke. another avm/rugged ridge has the nylon center which claims is approved by other militaries, gives better mpg, and if it fails due to the nylon center it will keep going. The nylon one is tempting as plastic against metal sound slow maintenance as its mostly will be used in 2wd. I dont know, maybe I should reservice my hubs and just squirt some axle oil on them vs wheel bearing grease?
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| Good bye | Nov 17 2014, 08:20 PM Post #2 |
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The least expensive hubs should be fine for occasional use. |
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| Cobb | Nov 17 2014, 08:47 PM Post #3 |
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Could I have them on backwards? Left on the right side, right on the left? I know with manual locking hubs I need to get out and access both wheels to turn 4wd on, but as is I have to come to a complete stop to engage 4wd and I have to back up like 50 ft to disengage it. |
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| Good bye | Nov 17 2014, 09:26 PM Post #4 |
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It is possible that there is nothing wrong other than having one engaged going the wrong way. This happens when the truck is jacked up and one gets engaged forward and one in reverse. First does it have open knuckles? Can you see the u-joint at each front wheel? If not, jack up the front end, rotate the tire in both directions and see if the hub is released. Do the same with the other side. When both sides are released turn the driveshaft in one direction only, both hubs should engage in that direction. To release the hubs only turn the wheels in the opposite direction. One should release then turn the other side and it should release. If both hubs lock by turning the driveshaft and unlock in both directions by turning the wheels then let the truck down and they should work as designed.
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| Cobb | Nov 18 2014, 06:26 AM Post #5 |
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Last time I was in 4wd it took a bit of backing up to disengaged. I just stop, shifted to 4wd and went on when it was slipping and fishtailing too much. Yesterday I tried to get on some ramps to service the gear oils. My right rear kept spinning, so I stopped, shifted to 4wd and drove right up the ramps. I backed off and out the driveway. I started to hear a noise on the right side like a tree limb was stuck in fender well. It went away. Got up to 45 and notice it steered, felt funny and had an extra vibration. Yup, it was in 4wd or the frotn axle was engaged. Yes, I can see the cvc joint and axle. Ill give that a try. I also used walmart red grease and Ive found walmart lubes are too.
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| Good bye | Nov 18 2014, 08:21 AM Post #6 |
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I have replaced many sets of automatic hubs with manual hubs over the years. |
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| don_dowdy | Nov 18 2014, 11:38 AM Post #7 |
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Shouldn't be too hard to find a factory set. What happens to the auto hubs is that they will unlock going down hill, and if you punch it at the bottom to go up the other side, the torque will break the hub when it goes to lock in again. You probably have one that's damaged on the inside. Check the 4-Wheeler forums, hubs are made by Aisin (spelling?) Toyota or Samurai hubs will usually fit if you fiddle with them a bit. |
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| Cobb | Nov 18 2014, 05:57 PM Post #8 |
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Thanks and thanks. With the stick shift I use more engine braking than real brakes. I can see if I am depending on 4wd to control the vehicle that the hubs can unlock engine braking, then when I get on it having a lapse in grip or something braking. Im leaning towards the nylon if the other forum member cant find the set he had for sale. Anyone interested in the old auto lockers? |
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| vr4 | Nov 19 2014, 12:04 AM Post #9 |
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I'll find them. OE sidekick manual hubs are aisin. Personally I wouldn't run any other option. Let me put it this way. If I don't find them or remember to look for them I'll pull mine off my truck since I haven't driven it in 5 years anyways. Edited by vr4, Nov 19 2014, 12:06 AM.
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| Cobb | Nov 22 2014, 06:57 AM Post #10 |
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No vr4, dont do that. If I lived closer Id try to buy the whole vehicle from you. I got the set with the nylon insert for 93 bucks with free shipping by rugged off road. They look substantial and are a lot heavier in weight than the stock ones. Im going to do the brake drag spring upgrade too from napa while while I have the wheel off installing this. |
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| Cobb | Nov 30 2014, 10:00 AM Post #11 |
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Got them on. The driver side axle shift was fugged up and needed the wire brush treatment. The passenger side went right on. No o rings or anything extra was needed other than some oil to lube the stuff up, no grease. Bolted on the collar, then screwed on the cap. One of the torex screw holes was tapered incorrectly so had to do some drilling to make the screw work. Basically the collar has a star outside, spline inside gear. It spins with the axle, the collar spins with the wheel. When you twist the locker knob it drops a puzzle piece in between the two so both turn at the same time. When you twist it the other way it retracts the spring loaded puzzle piece. Seems pretty simple, looks like its ok for the vehicle. it has a plastic feel, so I wouldnt push 300 hp through it.
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| Good bye | Nov 30 2014, 12:41 PM Post #12 |
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Then it is pretty handy that you don't have 300 hp.
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| Cobb | Nov 30 2014, 05:46 PM Post #13 |
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Wait til Im tuned for e85 running 30 psi of boost. Yeah, big weight difference in the feel between the 2. The auto locker is heavy like a block of lead. The manual locker is light. |
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2:25 PM Jul 11