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| Installing a Headlight Buzzer - Can it be done in a '91; Headlight Chime Buzzer Issues | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 2 2015, 06:32 PM (2,438 Views) | |
| chapelhilldave | Jan 2 2015, 06:32 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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I've seen examples of headlights on after you pull the key out leading to a buzzer or chime. I think 1993 or 1995 and later meto's have this installed from the factory perhaps? My 1990 base model does not, and thanks to the awesome recessed lights I can't see when I get to work and it's lightened up on my commute, I have killed my battery way to many times. I coast in engine-off all the time, and just blank on the headlights. Everything I find says to wire the buzzer to a light related fuse, and a fuse that goes off with the key, causing the buzzer to get hot from the lights, and ground from the other accessory, only if the key is out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=873bKjLkXCg Problem is, Metro lights are backwards as I understand it, and always hot, and so every fuse I tried ran the buzzer all the time no matter what, or never at all. I couldn't find any combination on either prong of the fuse that would make it work properly. Do I need to tie it into a headlight fuse, and a wire to like the windshield wiper motor or something? I have no Heat/AC/Stereo/Dome Light to play with, so I can't try splicing it into any of them. There are great write-ups liek this one: Headlight Buzzer Additionhttp://www.midknightmagic.com/index.php/how-to-add-a-headlight-on-warning-buzzerchime/ However I don't have rear wipers, or defrost, or any of the fuses they recommend, and I am pretty sure I tried every fuse combo under the dashboard and nothing worked. I await your knowledge metro gods. Edited by chapelhilldave, Jan 2 2015, 06:33 PM.
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| Old Man | Jan 2 2015, 06:46 PM Post #2 |
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Fuse box under dash--fuse #6 is the fuse for the buzzer---look at the second pic here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/5018841/1/ |
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| Fubar007 | Jan 2 2015, 07:18 PM Post #3 |
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I tried to do it once on my 93 Vert. Spent the biggest part of the day tinkering with the fusebox with no luck. Finally surrendered. |
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| nathan298 | Jan 2 2015, 08:01 PM Post #4 |
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Geo Resurrector
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Here's how I hooked mine up on my '91. http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=797332&t=5101335 Basically you just need to buy a 12v buzzer from RadioShack, ebay, etc...then plug the positive lead into something that only has power when the headlights are on, and plug the negative into something that has power when the ignition is on, but does not have power when the ignition is off. |
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| chapelhilldave | Jan 2 2015, 10:13 PM Post #5 |
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That's the question, what doesn't have power when the ignition is off? I can't tell from your write up where you put the positive wire.
Edited by chapelhilldave, Jan 2 2015, 10:18 PM.
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| Good bye | Jan 3 2015, 01:51 AM Post #6 |
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Really? After I repaired the door switch for the dome light the factory beeper tells me when I leave the lights on. Check it out. |
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| chapelhilldave | Jan 3 2015, 06:13 PM Post #7 |
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I have not even residue left over from the door switches or the dome light. I can tell they once existed but that's it. It's a very stripped down metro. I have another less stripped down, I'll see if I can make the buzzer work there. But it's an 89 and has no factory buzzer as far as I can tell either. Where is the factory buzzer? |
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| myredvert | Jan 3 2015, 06:26 PM Post #8 |
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myredvert
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There are schematics for the audio warning system in the FSM, maybe you can get some ideas from those. Section 8A-76, Electrical Diagnosis, Audible warnings, and also the "Warning" link at the very end of the list of "Just 1994 Wiring Circuits." (link>>) 1994 library; FSM and related links |
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| Metromightymouse | Jan 4 2015, 12:52 AM Post #9 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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I will try to remember to work this out for you tomorrow. I will work up a diagram along with the parts you need. |
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| Car Nut | Jan 4 2015, 04:04 PM Post #10 |
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Been needing to do this mod forever. I run with my headlights on all the time. (And leave them on all the time) Wouldn't mind a bit if the early models had come with DRL. I know, I know, everybody else deletes them. I'm trying to make sure I'm seen.
Edited by Car Nut, Jan 5 2015, 08:01 PM.
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| Metromightymouse | Jan 5 2015, 06:07 AM Post #11 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Ok, so the most important item is a 5 wire relay with the 87a terminal. From Amazon With 4 extras to use later. From Ebay Pins 85 and 86 are power to the coil to activate the switch. You will hook one side to switched power, such as the accessory wire that powers the radio or anything else that won't turn on when the ignition is off. This wire will already be fused so you don't need to add one in the circuit. The other side is run to a ground location. If you look at the bottom of the relay you should have 3 pins running the same direction and 2 that are close together running the other direction. If you turn the relay so the 3 are vertical and the 2 are horizontal then pins 85 and 86 will be on the left and right side. Pin 30 is called the common pin or terminal etc. This is the line that is being switched and is the pin that is facing the same direction as pins 85 and 86. Pin 87 is for normally open operation. With no power to the relay, pin 87 is not connected to pin 30. When power is applied to the relay, the switch closes and 87 and 30 are connected. Pin 87a is for normally closed operation. With no power to the relay, pin 87a is connected to pin 30. When power is applied to the relay, the switch opens and 87a and 30 are no longer connected. According to the 94 wiring diagram there is a black wire from the combination switch that is the ground for the headlights. This wire will have 12v on it when the headlights are on and will have 0v on it when the headlights are off. Cut that wire. *gasp* Trust me, it will be ok. The side from the switch gets hooked to pin 30. The other side gets hooked to pin 87. Pin 87a runs to the positive side of your buzzer and the negative side of your buzzer is connected to ground. Be sure to use the same size or larger wire as the wire you cut to wire the buzzer. If you use the relay as described but do not put a buzzer (or anything else) on 87a, the lights will turn off with the key. You could also wire a light instead of a buzzer to notify yourself that the lights are on. A red 12v light or 12v LED in a good spot could work quite well without any annoying noises.
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| myredvert | Jan 5 2015, 09:26 AM Post #12 |
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myredvert
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Just curious, but were there years/models that did not have the audio alarm, or is this something that is being added when the module is no longer working? Mine never worked when I got my 91 Vert, and while looking at the schematics I noticed there is something in the module called the "Ignition Key In/Lights On Control" tied to the LH door jamb switch. Once I fixed the door jamb switch, both the key and lights alarm started working again. |
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| Old Man | Jan 5 2015, 09:36 AM Post #13 |
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That's kinda the same experience I had with my '91 'Vert, RedVert. When doing some cleanup/repair on the drivers floorboards I reconnected some wiring behind the outside kick panel on the drivers side. My dome light started working and that "PESKY" buzzer was activated. |
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| Metromightymouse | Jan 5 2015, 03:37 PM Post #14 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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The OP has stated that none of those items are part of the car anymore. No dome light or door switch. |
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| David95237 | Jan 5 2015, 03:58 PM Post #15 |
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You did pretty good only thing is I wouldn't cut the ground, just splice in to it. |
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