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| ISC not working; possible problem with relay | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 27 2015, 01:02 PM (5,933 Views) | |
| freegeo | Jan 31 2015, 02:27 AM Post #46 |
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It has those things in it but it is just laid out different. To be able to test something you have to look up 3 or4 different things to find wiring diagrams or which cavity in a connection is which. I doesn't look like link you sent me. I wish it was I would have figured this out already. |
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| freegeo | Jan 31 2015, 02:41 AM Post #47 |
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I'll try this tomorrow. There is a big parking lot a block away and i can push it over there. |
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| freegeo | Jan 31 2015, 12:53 PM Post #48 |
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I tested the ISC. Actually both of them. (original one on car) I went out and unplugged the connection at the ISC and hooked up an extra one I had(easier to see it move). Unhooked the negative cable and turned the ignition to run. Touched the negative cable to the post and nothing happens. I used a couple of jumper wires to apply voltage to the ISC motor connections. The plunger moves in both directions. The plunger also works on the one on the car. So everything checks out as far as the ISC is concerned. Now to check the TPS and see what it is doing. |
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| Hanuman | Jan 31 2015, 02:50 PM Post #49 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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TPS IDLE CONTACT or wiring in between.......thats all thats left. one of the two is telling the computer not to "idle" |
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| freegeo | Jan 31 2015, 05:04 PM Post #50 |
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I checked my TPS. I Have a reference voltage of 4.98 at the TPS. With a .014" feeler gauge between the throttle stop and the key on I had .75 volts. The plunger on the ISC was not touching the stop. I adjusted it to the FSM spec of .98 to 1.02. It was 1.00 after the adjustment. It still doesn't idle up when cold and once warm it doesn't idle down. Stays around 1500 rpm. It is around 900 when engine is started and raises to 1500 as it warms up. I didn't check the ground on the TPS but will before I try anything else. |
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| myredvert | Jan 31 2015, 05:14 PM Post #51 |
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myredvert
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Could the idle stop screw possibly have been (mis) adjusted to force the idle up previously by the PO or whomever when the engine was dying? That might go along with the TPS voltage being off.
Edited by myredvert, Jan 31 2015, 05:15 PM.
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| freegeo | Jan 31 2015, 09:30 PM Post #52 |
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Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner. Yes when I put the other throttle body on it i didn't realize some one before me had changed the throttle stop screw. The cap was still on it so it was hard to tell it had been changed. That's why I could not get the idle down. |
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| myredvert | Jan 31 2015, 09:36 PM Post #53 |
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myredvert
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I just hope you realize the winner is you. It's not who comes up with the right answer, its important that the right answer is gotten to and you get your issue solved. It was great to see how patient you stayed through the whole process and glad you were rewarded for it.
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| TripleThreat | Jan 31 2015, 09:57 PM Post #54 |
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THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:06 PM.
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| freegeo | Jan 31 2015, 10:32 PM Post #55 |
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I got it figured out but I still have some questions. I checked the TPS voltage to the PCM per the FSM procedure. It states that the voltage should be between .98 volts to 1.02 volts. I was getting .75 volts. I adjusted it to 1.00 and it did not make a difference. I had to turn the TPS quite a bit to get it to read 1.00. I could not get it to idle down past 1500 rpm. It ended up being some one had messed with the idle stop screw. I checked the voltage reading on my 96 to see what it is. It was .64 volts. It runs correctly. I put on my original throttle body since i knew it would idle down to 850 rpm's. I started it up and it ran at 850 rpm constantly. ISC would not idle up when cold just like before. I checked the voltage on the TPS and it was .75 volts. I adjusted the reading to .64 volts and it started to surge between idle and 2000 rpms. I changed the TPS on it and set it to .64 volts. I start it up and it works correctly now. When driving it now goes to open loop when de accelerating like it should. Looks like it is fixed but I am confused why the TPS signal setting is different than what is described in the FSM. ![]() Does it matter where the DVOM is grounded? Does it need to be grounded to the battery or the ground on the TPS. I did it to the battery. |
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| TripleThreat | Jan 31 2015, 11:30 PM Post #56 |
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THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:06 PM.
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| freegeo | Feb 1 2015, 12:41 AM Post #57 |
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I just realized the same thing that I used a .014" instead of .140" Big difference there huh? I'll recheck it and see how close doing it the wrong way was. Has to be close or it wouldn't of helped it. I have T pins I can use to back probe it. Hope someone else can learn from it too. Edited by freegeo, Feb 1 2015, 12:43 AM.
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| TripleThreat | Feb 1 2015, 12:51 AM Post #58 |
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THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:06 PM.
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| Hanuman | Feb 1 2015, 01:22 AM Post #59 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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They are quirky as hell. ....................................... as i always say.... they are very electricaly sensitive. the positive and grounding sides of the electrical system must be as clean and have the same resistance as it did when it left the factory....20 years ago. or the ECM will not function as designed. everything wil be electricaly will be out of spec. notice most of the metro molesting is "compensating" for something electrical that the person couldnt get to work right. |
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| freegeo | Feb 1 2015, 07:44 AM Post #60 |
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That is one thing I have realized after messing with this thing that if you make one little change it can effect 2 or 3 other things. If you don't pay attention to eveything you will be !
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I'll recheck it and see how close doing it the wrong way was. Has to be close or it wouldn't of helped it. I have T pins I can use to back probe it.
!
7:53 PM Jul 10