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ISC not working; possible problem with relay
Topic Started: Jan 27 2015, 01:02 PM (5,930 Views)
freegeo
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Swapped out the MAP sensor this morning and checked the voltage at the MAP. Got a reference voltage of 4.98 volts and a signal voltage of 1.60 to 1.70 volts at idle. Did rev up the engine and the signal voltage varies as the throttle changes. Seems to run a little better. going to drive it a few days and see how it does.
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

freegeo
Feb 7 2015, 02:04 AM
Yes I can get back to were it was. I barely moved it. I have been writing done what adjustments I have been making.

I'm not sure a 94 is the same as a 97. One is a obdi and the other a obdii. Quite a bit of difference in how they work.

I'm not giving up until I get it running right. Only way to learn is to try and learn how it works.
"I'm not giving up until I get it running right. Only way to learn is to try and learn how it works."

:thumb :gp
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TripleThreat


THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:09 PM.
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geo-miami
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[ *  *  * ]
In my 3/5 95 I have no volts(.5 volts) in port # 4 ics relay, (no wire short), relay works ok , I cleaned all ground. So I assume that my pcm is fried.
I followed the procedure about driveability for this car to check it out.
Anyway most of members will give you the best answers for it and see what happen. Luck. :hmm
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TripleThreat


THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:09 PM.
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freegeo
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TripleThreat
Feb 12 2015, 04:30 PM
Hey free, it's been a while since you posted. Any updates on your car's idling issues? Hope all is well and no news is good news!
The car has been running pretty good. I have had to work some overtime so I haven't had the time to do much else. I have the weekend off and hope to work on it a little bit more. I just want to go back and recheck what the settings are now.

The engine has done something a couple of times, When letting off the throttle (normally with the clutch pushed in and slowing down to stop or turn) the rpm's will drop below 850 and the car has died. Most of the times it will stay at a raised rpm until after the car has come to a stop and then the rpms comes down to an idle.

Everything else works the way it should. idles up when cold and slowly idles down as it warms up. Much better than it was before.

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TripleThreat


THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:09 PM.
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

freegeo
Feb 13 2015, 01:09 PM
TripleThreat
Feb 12 2015, 04:30 PM
Hey free, it's been a while since you posted. Any updates on your car's idling issues? Hope all is well and no news is good news!
The car has been running pretty good. I have had to work some overtime so I haven't had the time to do much else. I have the weekend off and hope to work on it a little bit more. I just want to go back and recheck what the settings are now.

The engine has done something a couple of times, When letting off the throttle (normally with the clutch pushed in and slowing down to stop or turn) the rpm's will drop below 850 and the car has died. Most of the times it will stay at a raised rpm until after the car has come to a stop and then the rpms comes down to an idle.

Everything else works the way it should. idles up when cold and slowly idles down as it warms up. Much better than it was before.

ides down low and stalls while rolling in nuetral?...........

with the engine warm and at idle.......start wiggling all the wiring and harnesses......
map, cam/crank sensors, coolant temp, isc, iat, coil , grounds, fuses.....tbi and wiring inside tb.
something is probaly loose or occasionaly shorting out.
20 year old cars.....stuff wears out.

the car should have a higher idle while rolling in nuetral....it stops a few seconds after the car stops.
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freegeo
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TripleThreat
Feb 13 2015, 02:23 PM
I am definitely glad to hear it is better and driveable. That is a huge prgression. Give yourself a pat on the back. Like I said when this all started about requiring patience. If you don't have it when you get the car, you will either have it by the time the car is fixed or give up...

I am getting a data cable for my car and I that way I can plug in and see what all the sensors are doing in real time per rjsdotorg. I think that will be the best way to fine tune the engine management issues. It will have to wait until next payday but it is at the top of my list now that my car has the engine back together and running. yay!
Yes I have plenty of patience, it took me 6 months to rebuild the engine and get it back in and running.

I have a ultragauge that i use to better my mpg and to watch what the engine does during driving. Thats how i knew the car was not going into cutting the fuel off during decel.
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freegeo
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Hanuman
Feb 13 2015, 02:52 PM
ides down low and stalls while rolling in nuetral?...........

with the engine warm and at idle.......start wiggling all the wiring and harnesses......
map, cam/crank sensors, coolant temp, isc, iat, coil , grounds, fuses.....tbi and wiring inside tb.
something is probaly loose or occasionaly shorting out.
20 year old cars.....stuff wears out.

the car should have a higher idle while rolling in nuetral....it stops a few seconds after the car stops.
Yes idles down low and stalls while coasting with clutch in and trans in gear. Like I said it has only died a couple of times. I have noticed that it will occasionally idle down but not stall and die but the rpms will go back up and then once stopped idles back to 850 rpm.

It has gotten really cold and I haven't had a chance to try pushing the car in neutral to see if the engine will idle up or not.
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freegeo
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Hanuman
Feb 13 2015, 02:52 PM


the car should have a higher idle while rolling in nuetral....it stops a few seconds after the car stops.
I went out to the cemetry today and there was a small hill so I stopped at the top and let the car get to an idle. I stuck my leg out the door and gave it a push start. The car didn't go maybe 15 feet and the idle went up to 1500 rpm. So everything checks out for that.
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freegeo
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Hanuman, In another post I think I read you stated not to back probe a connection at the back of the ECM. Does this apply when using a DVOM? How do you verify the correct voltage is getting back to the ecm?
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

freegeo
Feb 15 2015, 11:47 PM
Hanuman, In another post I think I read you stated not to back probe a connection at the back of the ECM. Does this apply when using a DVOM? How do you verify the correct voltage is getting back to the ecm?
i corrected my self in the next post and said BE CAREFULL!

never use a test light to test the ecm pins when the ecm is plugged in.......a test light is more than enough to over load your ecm circuitry.

unless the ecm needs to be included in the test, disconnect.

a dvom (multimeter) uses a very small draw on the electrical system, so its safe for the ecm, but if your on the wrong pin......you can over load it.

pretend your a brain surgion, dont touch the test leads untill your are 110% positive you under stand what you are testing.
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freegeo
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The car has been running pretty good. Has only died once since I last posted. One thing I have noticed is that when it is in decel (the trans still in gear and slowing down) is when the engine seem to stumble. What part of the engine control system needs checked out to se if I can correct this?
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TripleThreat


THANKS GMF!
Edited by TripleThreat, Mar 14 2015, 11:09 PM.
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