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My '93 Convertible is possessed
Topic Started: Feb 15 2015, 08:32 PM (1,233 Views)
CharlestonMetro
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Fellas, I am losing my mind here.

1993 Convertible Metro.

It's always had the "clicky starter" issue off and on. I've read how to fix that. Previous owner "fixed" the issue by putting in a Ford solenoid.

My problem now is the car won't start half the time. Nothing happens when I turn the ignition. I temporarily jumpered the clutch safety switch to see if that was the problem, and it still didn't work (so I plugged it back in.)

What I've been doing is starting the car with a screwdriver until I could get time to fix it. Now that works about half the time...it just clicks. :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead

Then we wind up using the "boyfriend" starter, meaning I push the car and she pops the clutch.

At this point, I'm fine with putting in a button or switch on the dashboard to start the car. What would be the easiest way to do that?

I appreciate any help anyone could provide. This forum is a great community!
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

Why not just replace the starter with a new one?? :ermm:
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CharlestonMetro
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1DCGUY
Feb 15 2015, 08:40 PM
Why not just replace the starter with a new one?? :ermm:
At first, I ruled it out because the starter will work fine for a week. Then not start at all. Then work fine for awhile. I was under the impression it would either work or it wouldn't.
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nwgeo


Yep, seems it is time for a new or new used starter. Make sure it is not the ignition. Ignition is a weak point in these geos. Of the 10 or so geos I have had/have seen at lease 3 have been bad and have seen many more in the pnps and also on this forum.
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

CharlestonMetro
Feb 15 2015, 08:42 PM
1DCGUY
Feb 15 2015, 08:40 PM
Why not just replace the starter with a new one?? :ermm:
At first, I ruled it out because the starter will work fine for a week. Then not start at all. Then work fine for awhile. I was under the impression it would either work or it wouldn't.
Don't rule it out, replace it, and your trouble should go away. :thumb

BTW, disconnect the battery before you replace it. ^o)
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CharlestonMetro
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1DCGUY
Feb 15 2015, 08:57 PM
CharlestonMetro
Feb 15 2015, 08:42 PM
1DCGUY
Feb 15 2015, 08:40 PM
Why not just replace the starter with a new one?? :ermm:
At first, I ruled it out because the starter will work fine for a week. Then not start at all. Then work fine for awhile. I was under the impression it would either work or it wouldn't.
Don't rule it out, replace it, and your trouble should go away. :thumb

BTW, disconnect the battery before you replace it. ^o)
Thanks 1DCGuy. I will do that. I also received a PM that said to check the battery cables for a voltage problem. I appreciate the willingness of complete strangers to help in this forum! :cheers

Oh, and I will disconnect the battery before I work on the car. Thankfully, I am not as dumb as my post appears. HAHAHA
Edited by CharlestonMetro, Feb 15 2015, 09:02 PM.
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Old Man


before anything (after disconnecting the battery)---disconnect any and all electrical connections on the starter, clean them and reinstall. Mine was acting up and the wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter was corroded. Cleaned it and no more problems.
Edited by Old Man, Feb 15 2015, 09:14 PM.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

If you haven't been to MMM's starter theory, go there and read that. If the screwdriver was not making clean contact that could explain why it didn't work. If it was making clean contact then the problem is either the cables are not delivering the voltage to the starter or, more likely, the starter is worn out. Without getting too deep into how a starter works it is normal for a worn out starter to work off and on. Absolutely check the cables since that is free and if they check out or if the issue continues, replace the starter.
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Rondawg
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I had an old Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel. It would act up every so often, totally dead, no click nothing. I discovered that just tapping on the starter with a mallet would work. Not kidding.....some kinda dead spot in there somewhere. Statrters for them were rare and expensive so I figgered I would just keep a ball peen hammer under the seat. I wound up donating/giving it away before it got bad enough to replace.
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CharlestonMetro
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Update!

My Metro is no longer possessed! :rocker :rocker :rocker

Here is what I did.

Took out Ford solenoid and junked it.

Put in new starter. (remanufactured Mitsubishi from AutoZone)

Turned ignition switch...nothing.

I now assume the ignition switch is bad.

Not wanting to hassle with the cost and effort of replacing the ignition switch, I put in a push-button starter switch.

I ran a hot from the battery to a button mounted in one of the plastic knockouts in the dash. Put in a 20 amp in-line fuse Hooked the other side of the switch to the solenoid.

Now the car starts over and over and over and over again without a problem.

Downside? I am slightly concerned about bypassing the clutch safety switch. My girlfriend knows not to push that button unless she is out of gear, feet on the clutch and brake and the emergency brake pulled (just for good measure.)

Comments? Better way of doing it? Thanks! :cheers :cheers :cheers

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Scoobs
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:D

http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=648137&t=4798133

Instead of running all your power to a switch, why not route it through a relay
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CharlestonMetro
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Scoobs
Feb 22 2015, 10:08 PM
http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=648137&t=4798133

Instead of running all your power to a switch, why not route it through a relay
I read that, but didn't do it because I don't have the sticking solenoid problem. What are the advantages of doing it that way?
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Old Man


run the hot to the clutch safety switch THEN go from the safety switch to the start button.

Now the clutch safety switch will work.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

Old Man
Feb 22 2015, 11:15 PM
run the hot to the clutch safety switch THEN go from the safety switch to the start button.

Now the clutch safety switch will work.
Yep, this is the proper way to do it.

The relay makes it so the wire in the car only has to carry a small amount of current. Keeps you from burning out the switch and means if something in the circuit develops some extra resistance the starter should still work.
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

read post #13 and #14.route it as oldman described but then go through a relay as mmm posted.

why a relay?
the heavy current can weld a push botton switch...engaging your starter untill you have disconnected the battery....you also will wear out the clutch safety switch quicker with this much juice.

circuit #1: battery+ ------clutch safety switch----push botton-------relay.............ground.
circuit #2 : battery+-------relay contacts------starter tab. (starter will provide the ground)
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