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Brake Pedal Pushing to the Floor, Parking Brake Light Stays On, Very Little Braking Power
Topic Started: Feb 24 2015, 12:31 AM (995 Views)
GEOspatial
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chris
[ *  *  * ]
So, a couple days ago, my parking brake light would flicker on and off when I released it. Now it's to the point where it stays on all the time. I just figured it was a loose cable or something. It didn't slow the car at all and when applied, it worked. Well, today, the brake pedal pushed to the floor. I don't know if it's related but it happened. I checked the brake fluid (it's dark outside) and it looks empty. The brake light appeared on the dash but I thought it was referring to the parking brake, not the fluid. EEK!
I've read online that it could be the rear wheel cylinder.
Could it also be a small leak that has vanished over time?
How do I check the rear wheel cylinder?
Should I try to add brake fluid and see if that helps the situation?
Is it something an inexperienced car mechanic can figure out? Thank you!
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

One, it you are going to drive the car you're going to have to add brake fluid and bleed the brakes (lots of youtube videos for that, same basic process for all cars. While you are bleeding the brakes you can look at the backs of the wheels for signs of fluid leaking. A decent leak will generally make a spray pattern on the back of the tire (if you take it off and lay it in front of you it will have marks running from the inner edge of the tire to the outer edge). If none of the wheels look like they have marks from a leak then you will want to check all the lines from the master cylinder to the wheels, you should find a leak somewhere along the line. If it's a line it should drip while you are trying to bleed the brakes. It is not a good idea to drive with a leak for the reasons I'm sure you discovered. A small leak can also turn into a large leak in very short order.

Replacing a rear wheel cylinder is pretty easy. The calipers in the front could also be the source and they are a straight forward replacement as well. The rubber lines can be a little tricky getting them off, but other than that they are a straight forward take em off and put the new ones on. If you have a leak in a metal line it is a little more involved.
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Woodie
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Except for the friction material and the drum, the emergency brake is completely separate from the rest of your braking system, that's the point of it.

I'll bet your rear adjusters broke and the rear wheel cylinders needed to go WAY beyond their normal travel to take up the slack. One of them eventually blew out of the cylinder and now all the fluid has come out.
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GEOspatial
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chris
[ *  *  * ]
So, the brakes are working again after adding fluid but I did spot a leak in the back. It was the rear brake cyclinder, it's this plastic tubing connecting the metal brake line to the rear wheel cylinder. I dont know what the part is or how to fix it. Looks like it got knocked off and the bushing started leaking. Any advice?
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Stubby79
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My advice? If you don't know what you're looking at, take it to a mechanic to fix. Especially since this involves your - and others - safety.
Edited by Stubby79, Mar 9 2015, 04:41 AM.
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perfesser
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Elite Member - Former Metro owner

:thumb :gp

There are a lot of ways to ease into working on cars. Brakes aren't hard if you know what you're doing!!!, but they are no place for a crash course in auto mechanics! Especially the "crash" part!!
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Silver2K


There is nothing wrong in learning by doing. Sounds like you have concluded the leak is in the rubber hose going to the rear cylinder. If you can get a factory service manual you could find out what the hose is called. Or just go to an auto parts store and ask them. Before you replace the hose, clean it off and have someone step on the brakes while you look at the hose and see if you can verify the source of the leak. Fluids leak down and the hose may look wet cuz it is the lowest point relative to the source of the leak.

Here is my advice when working with brakes. Always use a flare nut wrench when attempting to loosen or tighten any nut on a brake line. You might be tempted to use a crescent wrench but you will strip the nut. Kind of sucks to buy a special wrench just for brakes but that is what it takes.
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GEOspatial
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chris
[ *  *  * ]
Hey guys, I went to my local auto shop and they ordered a new rear brake hose. I thought it was the clip causing the leaking. haha. Wrong. They said it was most likely the hose because the clip just keeps it in place. Looked at a youtube video of eric the car guy replacing a brake hose. Got a flare nut wrench. Replaced it today and the leaking has stopped! Brakes are much firmer. The hardest part was gettin gthe clips back on.
Edited by GEOspatial, Mar 23 2015, 08:11 PM.
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Woodie
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Remember, the other three hoses are the same age and have seen the exact same conditions.
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perfesser
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Elite Member - Former Metro owner

:gp :thumb
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myredvert
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myredvert

Quote:
 
Remember, the other three hoses are the same age and have seen the exact same conditions.
Quote:
 
:gp :thumb
:+1

There's a darn good suggestion in that thought, specifically, you should consider changing them all before one of those "just as old" hoses fails while driving, possibly in a bigger way, and cause you to instantly lose a lot of brake fluid at a time when you may not want to part with it.

Slow leaks and the warning light are wonderful things, but the warning light won't help a lick when a hose or line decides it's finally had enough.
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Silver2K


Good job GEOSpatial!
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