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| Odd wiring issue | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 2 2015, 10:14 PM (2,629 Views) | |
| OGrilla | Mar 2 2015, 10:14 PM Post #1 |
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I've been searching on Google and looking through titles, but can't seem to find anything similar. I'm sure it's buried in here, but I don't know where it might be... I had a squealing belt, so I adjusted it and trimmed the timing belt cover(I replaced my engine and both had holes in the same spot on the belt cover, so I assume this is related to a typical issue?), which got rid of it. Apparently it was too loose, however, as my alternator didn't recharge the battery enough. Took a new battery(which had been going strong since '08), battery terminals(which were stock, cracked, and discolored) and replacing a 60A Ignition fuse from behind the battery(which was suffering copper corrosion) before my dad figured out it was something so simple. Made me feel silly and like I wasted my money, but why not buy it now rather than waiting for those parts to fail? Anyway, there is still something wrong with my electrical and I haven't the faintest clue where to begin. For a while now, I've had problems with my headlights and dash lights only working simultaneously on the middle setting. OFF only runs the headlights, ON only runs the dash. Nothing works until the Parking brake is released. Now my headlights don't work at all and neither does my dash. My radio doesn't turn on, my wipers run extremely slowly and get stuck sometimes, my wiper fluid slows down my car(have no idea how that works!) and I have to push-start it. I get one click before it decides to stop trying. I checked all of my fuses, and found that the previous owner used a lot of 15s in place of the 10s and put 20s in place of some of the 15s. Obviously they had issues, as well and decided just to keep the fuses from blowing rather than protecting the components. Yay for laziness. I don't know how to check relays and don't have the tools, most likely. I don't quite know how to check for shorts, but don't want to go to a mechanic or electrician without at least a basic understanding of what to bring up as the culprit. If possible, I would like to fix it myself and can get the tools I need short of subatomic particle accelerators(market is horrible for buyers at the moment) or knives because my girlfriend doesn't trust me after my thumb was recently cut open somehow.... |
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| Good bye | Mar 3 2015, 12:08 AM Post #2 |
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Do you have DVOM? That is a digital volt ohm meter, test the battery voltage with the engine off and running. It sounds like your alternator quit working when you tightened the belt. |
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| OGrilla | Mar 3 2015, 03:19 AM Post #3 |
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I do not but I can get one in the morning and test whatever I need to test. Do you think I over-tightened it? |
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 3 2015, 06:57 AM Post #4 |
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It is unlikely you over tightened the alternator or that if you did that would make it stop charging. Our alternators have to be really tight to not slip, so chances are it's fine. Use the DVOM to check the voltage at the battery with the car off and with it running. You should have 12 something volts off and 14 something volts with it running. I believe you have a couple of different issues going on. Start with the general stuff. If your battery cables were showing any corrosion going up into the insulation, then you should replace them as well. Next, clean up all your grounds; http://geometroforum.com/topic/5720306/1/ If you can follow it from this post, check what your voltage drop is in your cables; http://geometroforum.com/topic/2716924/1/ If you have a hard time following it, search on Youtube or just Google for more coherent instructions. Once those items are done you can move to the more specific causes of what you are experiencing. The headlights are a known issue and very common on 95 (and other) Metros. Instructions for what you are looking for here; http://geometroforum.com/topic/2575236/1/ If after all of this your starter still doesn't work consistently, read this; http://geometroforum.com/topic/5753206/1/ Post any issues you continue to have and we will help from there. MMM |
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| sphenicie | Mar 3 2015, 09:06 AM Post #5 |
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to test your alt, simply remove the neg battery cable from the battery, while the car is running. if the engine quits, alt is not providing current. if it runs on, alt is ok. no tools needed! keep in mind that several parts stores will loan specialty tools. buying commonly used tools is a very good investment. |
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 3 2015, 09:42 AM Post #6 |
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Please don't do this to a car with an ECU. The electronic components in the car are all designed to have stable DC power and the battery acts as a capacitor and smooths out the spiky power coming from the alternator. When you remove the battery from the circuit all the spikes and noise from the alternator are fed to every live circuit on the car, potentially frying any computer chip in it's path. If there is a problem with the alternator the risk of damage goes up. Can it be done and nothing bad happens? Yes, I've done it myself before thinking/ reading about it, but this isn't one of those "in this perfect set of circumstances that almost never happens" kind of things. Every time you do it you risk loosing electronic items in the car. This is one of those old leftovers from cars without a bunch of electronics. There is no risk if you do this to your old 50s/ 60s era cars because there aren't a bunch of computer chips to fry. |
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| David95237 | Mar 3 2015, 10:42 AM Post #7 |
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I was working on a van conversion a while back. It had a relay to disconnect the battery if the tv was left on too long. Well the relay was bad, once I started the van the relay failed and I was seeing 27 volts on my meter. I immediately shut the van off and bypassed the relay. Got lucky and only blew one fuse. |
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| myredvert | Mar 3 2015, 11:25 AM Post #8 |
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myredvert
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In addition to checking your alternator output, have you replaced all the fuses with the proper sizes/ Also, what has your charging indicator light been doing through all of this? |
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| OGrilla | Mar 3 2015, 03:09 PM Post #9 |
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I'm just getting to read all of this. I appreciate all of your advice and am already learning a lot! I'll get back to the other posts with updates after I ride my bicycle to the store and start checking things off the list. But first: what is the charging indicator light? Where do I find it? |
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| myredvert | Mar 3 2015, 03:17 PM Post #10 |
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myredvert
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The red lit 'battery" icon in the instrument cluster. Should be on when you turn the key on, and go out after you start. |
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 3 2015, 03:17 PM Post #11 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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When you first turn your key on and the warning lights all light up along the bottom, the charge indicator light is the picture of the battery. It should turn off when the car is started and running. The oil light should behave the same way. it is the light in the shape of an old hand pumped oil can (it has a drip falling off of the pointed end usually). |
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| OGrilla | Mar 3 2015, 03:26 PM Post #12 |
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That was showing up dim when I first started having problems after loosening the belt. It would get brighter as the rpms got higher. Now it seems to have gone away, but my whole dash is dim so I can't clearly tell. I know my brake and seatbelt indicators still work, at least. |
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| OGrilla | Mar 3 2015, 04:25 PM Post #13 |
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The battery was at a steady 11.4v and then when I turned the key to on(it won't start remember) the voltage started at 9.1v and dropped .1v every second until I switched it off at 8.7v. Checking the battery again it's at a steady 11.1v. EDIT: Power to the starter and alternator are both 11.0v. EDIT2: Replaced fuses with proper resistances according to this topic. Another thing I failed to mention is that the tip of my key broke off inside the ignition but I've been driving it for well over a year that way. I don't know if it's an issue or just something else to fix. Edited by OGrilla, Mar 3 2015, 05:34 PM.
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 3 2015, 05:16 PM Post #14 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Get a charger on the battery or replace it. Since it is new, get a charger on it and get it back above 12v. Next you very likely have a connection issue between your battery and the cables or the cables and the rest of the car. Revisit your cable ends and make sure they are clean and tight on the cables and the battery posts. If that doesn't restore the dash etc to normal brightness then check the main fuse in the underhood fuseblock. With the negative cable off the battery check for any loose or corroded connections on the bottom of it. Also check the wiring bundle that goes through the fenderwell there and make sure it hasn't rubbed through the insulation and is shorting out the wiring there. |
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| OGrilla | Mar 3 2015, 07:29 PM Post #15 |
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I checked my main fuse using this video as a reference and it was blown. Replaced it but my car wouldn't start. Push started it and everything worked! Now I'm letting it run to charge the battery. I cleaned the grounds and tightened my alternator earlier so I'm pretty confident this will do the trick. It's at 13.5v right now. I also replaced the fuses beneath the dash as they were all wrong. Nothing has blown so far. Thanks for the help! If anything else goes wrong I'll be sure to let you know.
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