Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Odd wiring issue
Topic Started: Mar 2 2015, 10:14 PM (2,630 Views)
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

OGrilla
Mar 10 2015, 07:01 AM
I appreciate the reply, but I've typed too much relevant info to respond in a civil manner.
Thanks for the restraint, it's appreciated. This happens frequently when an issue gets several days or weeks into troubleshooting. A member clicks into a thread they've read before and has no idea what they read the last time they were in the thread. They post a response to the new information which is all stuff covered by the first post. In trying to help they make the OP want to pull their hair out.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Stubby79
Member Avatar


Aye, I'll butt out now.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
Thank you for being willing to help, though.

Updates:

- Bypassed the fusebox for the headlights. It solved my headlight problem easily, but I was hoping it would do more.

- I checked my alternator before, but I checked it again today and it seems to not be magnetizing. I didn't clean the ground when I did the others, so sanding it down seems to have helped somewhat, if only to make it easier push-starting.

- Unplugged the starter bypass relay thinking it might have been putting too much strain on the system.

Where I'm at right now is thinking that my alternator is bad, but I also think it might be a short still. Can't locate any shorts yet, however. My battery keeps draining, so I'm almost certain it is the alternator. Can I work to get it fixed, or do I have to buy a new one?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

OGrilla
Mar 11 2015, 12:04 AM
Thank you for being willing to help, though.

Updates:

- Bypassed the fusebox for the headlights. It solved my headlight problem easily, but I was hoping it would do more.

- I checked my alternator before, but I checked it again today and it seems to not be magnetizing. I didn't clean the ground when I did the others, so sanding it down seems to have helped somewhat, if only to make it easier push-starting.

- Unplugged the starter bypass relay thinking it might have been putting too much strain on the system.

Where I'm at right now is thinking that my alternator is bad, but I also think it might be a short still. Can't locate any shorts yet, however. My battery keeps draining, so I'm almost certain it is the alternator. Can I work to get it fixed, or do I have to buy a new one?
They can be fixed but it is generally easier to just replace them. If you can you might pull it and have it tested.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
So, it's been a while. I've not been in a good place mentally, physically, emotionally, etc, so I haven't worked on this lately.

Updates:

- Alternator passed 3 tests at O'Reilly.

- Took it to a mechanic and two auto electricians and no one will touch it, because they either don't have time/space or don't have the proper diagnostic tool...

- Took the multimeter to as many of the wires and connectors as possible, found my coil might be bad.

- Replaced ignition coil and it worked! Twice. Then I had to replace the relay. Started 3 more times and hasn't done anything since.

- The coil isn't getting any juice.

- Got a new ignition switch. Gonna put it in tomorrow.

I'm so burnt out on this.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
Okay, so a few things. Found out we got the wrong switch. Got a 1994, so awesome...

The huge thing is this:

Comparison between the two switches.

There is a toggle switch, LED, relay, fuse, and some black box spliced into my ignition switch.

This was on the black box.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this shouldn't be here... and that it's causing my problems.

EDIT:
Another picture.
You can see the switch at the bottom in this one.
Edited by OGrilla, Mar 29 2015, 04:35 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

Looks like an alarm system to me.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
It's definitely not how the car came, though. Right? A previous owner had to have done this...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Good bye


They probably won't exchange it if you plug it in, however if the wire colors are the same it may answer some questions.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Metromightymouse
Member Avatar
Powdercoat Wizard

Yes, that would have been installed by a previous owner. The splice crimps would not have been used by any shop (any reputable shop anyway), so this is a home installed system. Splice crimps (I'm seeing at least 1 each of blue, brown, and red) work by cutting through the insulation of the wire to contact the copper wire inside. Unfortunately they also cut some of the wires as well and don't make a clean, lasting contact. Over time the cut wires can pull away from the splice or oxidation can build up at the contact points and it all stops working properly. To fix the wiring where one has been used you have to cut the wire at that point, strip back the insulation, and at least use butt crimps for a semi-permanent repair. A permanent repair requires soldering the wiring back together and heat shrinking insulation over the splice.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
Time to get my soldering kit back from my friend.

What should I do about the key tip broken in my ignition? I have it out of the car so I may as well do something about it now.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
Tons of things and I'm almost certain it's close to running correctly.

- Replaced the ignition switch with a 1995 Suzuki Swift. Or the switch from one, rather. Same size, pretty much.

- Got the alternator bench tested a second time, still passed. Put it in, push started the car and drove it up to the store and they used a handheld device this time. Turns out Mr. Smellitron 6000 does have a nose on him. Voltage regulator was out.

- I went to an alternator repair and had it cleaned, regulator replaced, lubed up and all that good stuff.

- Serpentine belt needed replaced due to heavy glazing and a tear was starting to form.

- Searched for the culprit and my timing belt cover was once again rubbing the belt. Got rid of the bits and pieces and tried tightening it down.

- Still squealing, I put WD40 into the A/C compressor pulley and amazingly my squeal was gone! I had my multimeter up on the windshield so I could see my battery from the driver's seat. Brights, radio at high volume, revving the engine, all at the same time and the alternator was STILL bringing the voltage higher than 14v almost to 14.6! Success!

- Turned on the heat(because I have no A/C at the moment) in order to further test load and BAM! . . . 11.7v and the squeal was unbearable. This must be where my short is. Something is going on in this circuit.

- Finally got the squeal to almost go away and the alternator to run correctly after removing the A/C compressor pulley and thoroughly cleaning it as well as the crankshaft pulley and then shooting WD40 into wherever I imagined it needed to go.

- The squeal comes back for a few seconds when I start it and then disappears, but sometimes will last as long as a minute. I put a washer between the alternator top mount and the adjusting arm because I noticed it would pull the alternator out of alignment whenever I tightened the bolt to tighten the belt. I think I need to put one more washer between them.

Where I'm at now is a loss of a temperature gauge. I think the thermostat is fine because it isn't overheating and the fan turns on at the appropriate times. I have plenty of coolant. I think I'm just not getting signal to the gauge, but I could be wrong.

Anyway, I felt it necessary to post my progress and success here so that maybe one person reading it will benefit.

Thanks for everyone's help and support! I will continue to post when I can and will be making it to Geopalooza this year, even if I have to panhandle and find a new job when I get back haha.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
ranger88den
Elite Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
"The squeal comes back for a few seconds when I start it and then disappears, but sometimes will last as long as a minute. I put a washer between the alternator top mount and the adjusting arm because I noticed it would pull the alternator out of alignment whenever I tightened the bolt to tighten the belt. I think I need to put one more washer between them.
"

If you are not the original owner, I wonder if alternator brackets are original to the engine (correct application), and if they are, are all bolts intact and torqued to spec.? Just a thought.
Edited by ranger88den, Jun 15 2015, 02:19 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
myredvert
Member Avatar
myredvert

Quote:
 
Where I'm at now is a loss of a temperature gauge. I think the thermostat is fine because it isn't overheating and the fan turns on at the appropriate times. I have plenty of coolant. I think I'm just not getting signal to the gauge, but I could be wrong.
Factory Service Manual, Section 8A-31, Electrical Diagnosis, Instrument Cluster with Gages, Chart #1, 2, or 3 as appropriate to your specific failure mode.

1994 FSM, Section 8A-81
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
OGrilla
Member Avatar
New Member
[ *  * ]
ranger88den
Jun 15 2015, 02:19 PM
If you are not the original owner, I wonder if alternator brackets are original to the engine (correct application), and if they are, are all bolts intact and torqued to spec.? Just a thought.


Not only am I not the original owner(<2 years), but I had my engine replaced. I doubt there is anything done correctly on this car haha. I've been slowly realizing that it has been fooled with more times than it has miles on it...

I had one bolt, minus a nut on one side of the bottom of the alternator. It's a wonder it never broke free. I replaced that with a long bolt which made it through both holes. I have no idea if it's torqued to spec or even how to check. I think I may have tightened it too much, but I'm not sure how it would effect it. I didn't see any diversion while tightening it.

myredvert
Jun 15 2015, 02:40 PM
Factory Service Manual, Section 8A-31, Electrical Diagnosis, Instrument Cluster with Gages, Chart #1, 2, or 3 as appropriate to your specific failure mode.

1994 FSM, Section 8A-81


That is incredibly helpful, thank you!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Electrical Systems · Next Topic »
Add Reply