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| Park Lamps/ Wiring Issues | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 6 2015, 10:32 PM (1,966 Views) | |
| Nicademas | Mar 6 2015, 10:32 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Ok I need help. I just bought a 1990 Geo Metro Base. At the time the head lights, Licence plate lights, rear park lights, break lights, rear turn lights, rear haz lights, and the dash lights worked. The front park lights, turn lights, and haz lights did not work. Also the dome light does not work at all. So I replaced all the bulbs in the car and checked the fuses and relays. The front park/turn lights still do not work. Hear and there my Rear turn light would stop working until I hit the housing. But the Haz lights in the rear still worked. I am getting power to the fuses for the park lights by checking with a test light. So I tore apart my dash thinking something was lose. Now my dash lights and my rear park lights don't work even with all the connectors connected. But my rear turn and rear haz lights still work. I found that my dimmer switch was broke (even though it was working until I disconnected it). So i removed it. ALL THAT BEING SAID HERES MY QUESTION: 1: SHOULD my dash lights work with the dimmer switch removed? a: If not how can i bypass it until i get a new one? 2: If I have to "HIT" the rear light housing to get the turn light to work, should i look for a bad ground? a: If so, isn't the ground a wire that runs back to the dash? B: If so, where should i look? 3: Since my rear park lights were working is it safe to assume that the front ones have no affect on them no longer working? a: If the front park lights do affect them, what should I look for to get the rear/front park lights working? WHEW...... Any help would be appreciated as im about to torch this car..........
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| 1DCGUY | Mar 6 2015, 11:40 PM Post #2 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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Check the fuse that runs the dash, dome, and tail lights, I'm pretty sure it's burned out!!
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| Nicademas | Mar 7 2015, 12:16 AM Post #3 |
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Learn to read. I have checked all the fuses and I have power getting to all of the fuses as I have stated. |
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| Good bye | Mar 7 2015, 12:27 AM Post #4 |
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If you get short with people, no one will help you! |
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 7 2015, 02:49 AM Post #5 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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I will second, please drop the attitude. One persons "I checked the fuse" doesn't necessarily align with what we mean when we say to check the fuse. Have you done more than look at the fuse? It happens that the fuse blows in such a way as to not be visibly blown. It is a good place to start, followed by tracing the power at the wiring connectors down the line until you find where the power stops. There is a wiring diagram in the forum for the 94 that should be close to your car. It is in the manual section, on the second page in the 94 Library thread. |
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| evmetro | Mar 7 2015, 02:50 AM Post #6 |
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I was getting ready to answer your post, but then I read this... |
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| pvr007 | Mar 7 2015, 03:10 AM Post #7 |
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I Would check compression first......
Edited by pvr007, Mar 7 2015, 03:10 AM.
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| Nicademas | Mar 7 2015, 03:24 AM Post #8 |
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Witch tells me you really dont know whats going on but instead you just decided to be a smart ass...... |
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| Hanuman | Mar 7 2015, 04:36 AM Post #9 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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you my want to checkout his website, or the links in his signature for all of the electric vehicals he builds, including a few electric metro..........he also has many how to do threads on body work. now,did you check the use with a dvom? often on metros the fuses blow on the side where its not visable, also the plastic fuse box will melt and coat the fuse, or the fuse box contacts in a thin film of plastic. you said you have power on one side......with a fuse in place you need power on both sides. there is a ground wire in the trunk area.....i cant remember if its bhind a tailight or behind the plastic trim....EVMETRO would know.......my specialty is engine electrical and drive ability, other members are more knowledge able with the body electrical. clean your grounds and positives: http://geometroforum.com/topic/5720306/1/ one of the grounds on my list can cause the windshield wipers and turn signs to do some crazy laugh able things. Edited by Hanuman, Mar 7 2015, 04:37 AM.
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| Nicademas | Mar 7 2015, 05:08 AM Post #10 |
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New Member
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Yes I did use a DVOM. But i pulled the fuses all are good and nothing is melted. I did see the post about the headlight dimmer switch melting that one wire so I pulled the fuse box and found it was hot at one point. But it was still making connection. Either way if im reading the wiring diagram right that shouldn't interfere with the park lights circuit. I havent been able to get to the back paneling because my snow tires are in there and i got a perforated disk in my back. I can lift anything. I'm getting surgery on the 1tth and im not trying to go to the ER before then... Now back to the fuses. I know witch fuse controls the park lights. (15A left column 3rd down) If you are looking at it, my test light lights up on the left contact but not the right. Does this indicate a bad fuse box? Edited by Nicademas, Mar 7 2015, 05:09 AM.
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| Hanuman | Mar 7 2015, 05:39 AM Post #11 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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this is where dianosing by internet gets tricky...... with no fuse or a bad fuse, one side will be hot. with a good fuse both sides will be hot. assuming the fuse is good and installed the test light not lighting up can only be one of two things: test light didnt make contact on right side of fuse. test light didnt make good contact with ground. of course, i may have misunderstood you...... |
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| Hanuman | Mar 7 2015, 05:43 AM Post #12 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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i see the "quoting" is mesing up again tonight....lol |
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| Nicademas | Mar 7 2015, 06:33 AM Post #13 |
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New Member
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You understood me right. But i even tried a new fuse because the resistance was wrong on the old one. But I haven't tried a jumper wire yet so i might do that next..... |
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| Stubby79 | Mar 7 2015, 12:27 PM Post #14 |
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If it hasn't been said already in all that going on...you can test for a bad ground by running a wire from where you know you're supposed to have ground (at the tail lights or wherever) to bare metal/bolt on the body, and see if that bypasses your problem. Alligator clips are your friends. (Just don't try grounding out the "hot" side...)
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| evmetro | Mar 7 2015, 12:46 PM Post #15 |
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Which witch is telling you this? Does she know how to work on cars? |
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going on...you can test for a bad ground by running a wire from where you know you're supposed to have ground (at the tail lights or wherever) to bare metal/bolt on the body, and see if that bypasses your problem. Alligator clips are your friends. (Just don't try grounding out the "hot" side...)
7:53 PM Jul 10