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| NO headlights,ddl,radio, or horn; All fuses are good | ||||||||||||||||
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 12 2015, 11:26 AM (937 Views) | ||||||||||||||||
| p-robo | Mar 12 2015, 11:26 AM Post #1 | |||||||||||||||
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The other day while driving i parked for a few minutes and when I restarted the car it was if the battery had been disconnected. The radio had no preset stations etc, so I reset them and went on. Later that day I had a meeting to get to and while driving the radio went out and had no power to it and at that same time I realized that the headlights had gone out and I didn't even have the DDL and the horn was out so I pulled to the side of the road and popped the hood and all of a sudden the headlights came back on so I got back and the radio was back also.After about a mile they all went out again and will not come back. I have checked the notorious burnt pin on the fuse box and its good. All fuses are good battery is brand new. Even when I had the burnt pin problem I always had the day driving lights. I did find and replace the ground from the distributor to the coil wire harness was burnt so I replaced it. I have a relay wired directly to my fog /driving lights so I changed the relay and checked all wires and grounds for that.Please tell me in simple terms what have I missed. A mechanic recently reworked and put a new head on because I bent the pistons by putting the cam in the wrong position. Even when I had the burnt pin on the fuse box it didn't affect the radio or horn I called myself checking the grounds under the hood but what did I miss. It's a 95 3/5 . Please keep it simple I'm more mechanical than electrical. Thanks | |||||||||||||||
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| p-robo | Mar 12 2015, 09:09 PM Post #2 | |||||||||||||||
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OK after working all day on it and still not resolving the problem I did find one thing. I laid down on the driver floor board and started to move the wiring just above the fuse box and the lights came on and everything started to work while I did this. When I stopped moving the wires the problem came right back so I know I have a short somewhere in that area. I removed the fuse box to get a better look at the wiring but nothing is obvious as far as burnt wires or corrosion that I can see. Does anyone have a suggestion to lead me in the right direction. Please don't say grounding unless you know of a specific place I should look as I have checked every ground I can see or know about and have been unsuccessful in finding damage or loose connections.HELP!!! and thanks | |||||||||||||||
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 12 2015, 10:21 PM Post #3 | |||||||||||||||
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Powdercoat Wizard
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In the manual section of the forum on the 2nd page is the 94 Library which has the FSM for the 94 Metro. The wiring for the 94 should be nearly identical and the schematic is in there. Look for somewhere where all the affected circuits are together. | |||||||||||||||
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| p-robo | Mar 12 2015, 11:03 PM Post #4 | |||||||||||||||
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Thanks MMM, I do have that manual and looked for what you described but I can't seem to figure out how they come together into one of the connectors to the fuse box. The wiring diagrams for the things that went out are very similar but it may as well be in another language for me to narrow it down. Thanks for replying I will keep at it til I figure it out or someone comes up with the same problem that they have solved. | |||||||||||||||
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 12 2015, 11:21 PM Post #5 | |||||||||||||||
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Powdercoat Wizard
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8a-11-4 in the 94 manual shows most of those items powered by one inlet power feed. looking further. | |||||||||||||||
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 12 2015, 11:26 PM Post #6 | |||||||||||||||
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Look at the white/yellow wire feeding off of the fusible link C, 40 amp in the underhood fuse box. | |||||||||||||||
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| p-robo | Mar 13 2015, 10:08 AM Post #7 | |||||||||||||||
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OK I will concentrate on that area first today and give a report of any progress later this afternoon. thanks, Phil | |||||||||||||||
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| Good bye | Mar 13 2015, 10:21 AM Post #8 | |||||||||||||||
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I recommend that you check the ground connection at the transmission and at the core support near the drivers side headlight. I suspect something here because of your failed ground between the distributor and the coil. This may have nothing to do with your current issue but it may be related. | |||||||||||||||
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| myredvert | Mar 13 2015, 01:07 PM Post #9 | |||||||||||||||
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myredvert
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Grounding! ![]() I agree with MMM that the feed wire from the fusible link appears to be common to most of the items you mentioned, except maybe for the radio on the ACC fuse. Considering that something may very well be loose/shorted under the dash, and that all the components you mentioned appear to also share one or more of the G200 series grounds which are inside the car, I would say grounding is a very real possibility.And, since you have had things "apart" and messed with various wiring, the junction block, connections, etc, are you certain first that all connections on it and the junction block (fuse panel) itself are secure? Don't take this the wrong way, but from what you described it seems the more you work on the car, the more problems you are developing. I'm just sayin'... try to be extremely careful, patient, and thorough. And before you get upset because I said "grounding," the following is a name, description, and a reference to the FSM page that shows a diagram of where it's located. If you want to dig into each and every component and its' specific ground and wire color, you know where to find the FSM in the library - have at it. ![]() Section 8A-11 Electrical Diagnosis, Fuse Box Details 8A-201, Electrical Diagnosis, Component Location Views (all "G" (ground), "C" (connectors), "P" (pass through), and "S" (splice) locations are shown in this section)
FWIW, G100 series grounds (G100, G101, etc.) are under the hood, G200 series grounds are inside the cabin, G400 series grounds are in the "back", e.g., inside the trunk (Vert) or in the hatch. |
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| Hanuman | Mar 13 2015, 02:36 PM Post #10 | |||||||||||||||
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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i dont think grounding is your issue....to many components you listed on different grounding points. well, they all share one common grounding point.....batter negative to the front radiator support bar......this is battery ground to all chassis grounds connection point. the only electrical grounds not using this point are ecm, sensors, engine electronics...they use the tranny ground. so clean the ground for the car body from battery negative to front radiator support......remove bolt, use sand paper or a dremel and mechanically shine every surface of the ground...both sides of wire spade, bolt lip and threads, radiator support where it contacts. tighten to spec. now....back to the fuse box as MMM mentioned......that is where your problem lies. remove it, take it inside and inspect it in good light on your work bench. clean and repair. then go through each wire connector to the fuse box individually. this is best done at night with a good flashlight, it allows you to focus more directly on the connector....since the surrounding area willl be dark. i do a lot of electrical work by flash light for this same reason.....focus points. i am a under the hood electrical guy.....i know the computer sensors and deal with drive-ability issues. when we are out from under the hood, im not the best for help. good choices for the chassis electrical are evmetro, geofonda, metromightymouse. myredverts ability to find information is in the fsm is beyond belief......but he lived by the manual as a aircraft test pilot. |
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| Metromightymouse | Mar 13 2015, 05:18 PM Post #11 | |||||||||||||||
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Powdercoat Wizard
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This was the same group of things that wasn't working for me when I finished cleaning up my wiring. Turned out I hadn't gotten the plug latched into the back of the fuse block and it had popped out. | |||||||||||||||
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| Woodie | Mar 14 2015, 05:12 AM Post #12 | |||||||||||||||
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This is usually cause by the big ground wire from the battery to the transmission being bad. When you try to start the car, the starter can't get enough juice through the big cable, so it tries to pull it through any little ground wire it can find, burning it up. |
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| p-robo | Mar 14 2015, 12:27 PM Post #13 | |||||||||||||||
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Thanks guys all great info. This is where I am after a 10 hour Friday working on it. I didn't get to see the reply from you until this morning. I took the fuse box out a total of 3 times going back over and trying new things. At the end of the night this is what I had. My headlights are working, horn is working, driving/fog lights working radio is working and my back brake lights work. To give a little background on how I have my fog lights connected. A 4 pin relay hot wired to the battery with inline fuse, spliced into the right side marker to work when lights are turned on and grounded. At the present I do not have blinkers or hazards. When I turn the left blinker on there is no blinker but the blinker light on the instrument cluster stays solid green on. When I put my right blinker on both right and left side blinkers blink and also the driving/fog lights blink with them ??? If I just push the hazard button both side blinkers and fog/driving lights come on solid but don't blink. Remember I have brake lights but do not have running tail lights and no blinker come on in the rear????? | |||||||||||||||
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| p-robo | Mar 14 2015, 06:25 PM Post #14 | |||||||||||||||
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Anyone have a suggestion or a thought of where I should be looking??? | |||||||||||||||
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Considering that something may very well be loose/shorted under the dash, and that all the components you mentioned appear to also share one or more of the G200 series grounds which are inside the car, I would say grounding is a very real possibility.

7:58 PM Jul 10