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| How to Remove/Backout ECU Connector Pins | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 19 2015, 01:43 PM (660 Views) | |
| SpringSummerAutumnWinter | Mar 19 2015, 01:43 PM Post #1 |
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Now that it's not freezing out, I'm back at troubleshooting my Idle Control Sensor (ISC). I'm following the FSM on page 6E2-A2-59 and I'm on step 3. I'm stuck at the part where I'm supposed to "back out" (remove) the pin at terminal A7. I've searched the forums but haven't found any information. Google yielded a number of guides/videos on the subject but the connectors are all a little different. The gist seems to be that there are two holes for each pin. One where the pin goes in and one where a tool is inserted to allow for the removal of the pin. It sounds like there's a plastic clip of sorts locking it in and that the tool needs to pry this clip apart so that the pin can be removed. I've tried using a paperclip that I filled an edge on at ~45 degrees, but haven't had any luck other than to mishape the hole... In fact, I initially thought the big hole was where the pin went in and that the small hole was for removing the pin. Nope. I just hope I didn't destroy the connection. It looks like I did, but the car seems to run the same and no error codes. Any advice on how to do this? I'm eager to continue troubleshooting but am afraid that I have or will damage things and create far more work. |
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| Hanuman | Mar 19 2015, 03:47 PM Post #2 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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what is the problem that you are having? are you experiencing no idle speed control? (many things can cause this ) racing idle speed? (many different things) rough idle? loping or surging idle? or did you get a code 46? all this means is the throttle angle is not what the computer expected.......completely different from the above list. |
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| Hanuman | Mar 19 2015, 03:49 PM Post #3 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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clean your grounds: http://geometroforum.com/topic/5720306/1/ you cannot correctly test for electrical problems unless your grounding and positive systems are cleaned to the same conditions as when they left the factory...over 20 years ago. these cars are very electricaly sensitive. |
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| SpringSummerAutumnWinter | Mar 19 2015, 04:03 PM Post #4 |
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@Hanuman: I already have a thread going about my idle issue here. I'm just now getting back into troubleshooting. I posted here because I couldn't find any information on how to "back out" connector pins in general/specifically with the ECU. I've cleaned my grounds already. Basically though, low idle when not warmed up. Plunger does not extend when cold and ignition in on position, nor when warmed up and the headlights are turned on. I applied power with a 9V briefly directly to the ISC and the motor extended and retracted when polarization was switched, so it works but isn't getting a signal. The relay works as well. I assume it's likely a wiring issue somewhere so I'm chasing that with the help of the FSM. I'm really just stuck with the pins right now. |
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| ranger88den | Mar 19 2015, 05:21 PM Post #5 |
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What vehicle do you have ('59 DeSoto?), there's nothing in your sig.? Some FSMs show how to remove the connector pins in the 1st part of the electric section (Chapter 8?) or you could backprobe with a T pin. |
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| SpringSummerAutumnWinter | Mar 19 2015, 10:39 PM Post #6 |
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All of that information is in the thread I linked, but I just wanted general information on how to remove an ECU connector pin. Troubleshooting my problem outside of that is for the other thread. I will however make a signature now, it is past due. Thanks. I'll check out the FSM for info on the pins. T pins are only useful for when I discover which wire (if any) has a brake in it. |
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| Good bye | Mar 19 2015, 11:11 PM Post #7 |
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I have a couple tools that I bought from a Snap-On tool truck years ago. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automotive-Electrical-Terminal-Connector-Remover-Tool-/371286124474?hash=item567260a7ba I have a compact set of something like this. |
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