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| ignition coil help!!!!!!!! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 23 2015, 11:12 PM (2,424 Views) | |
| faygoninja | Mar 23 2015, 11:12 PM Post #1 |
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so i think the coil went out. its getting power but nothing is going to the dist. my car is on the side of the road and i dont want them to tow it if i can avoid it. the parts stores in my area dont have it, needs ordering. is there another car that i could swap in and it work or am i SOL? |
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| faygoninja | Mar 23 2015, 11:49 PM Post #2 |
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anyone? |
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| don_dowdy | Mar 24 2015, 12:07 AM Post #3 |
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Looks like they are Metro only, and not that many years of Metro. Sorry. |
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| Old Man | Mar 24 2015, 12:37 AM Post #4 |
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check the ground. corroded ground makes the coil not work. |
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| Spellsing | Mar 24 2015, 12:45 AM Post #5 |
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Elite Member
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It could be many many things besides the ignition coil. It could be a bad timing belt. It could be the same problem I'm experiencing right now where the pickup coil inside the distributor unraveled and wrapped around the rotor shaft. There are just so many things that could cause this problem aside from the ignition coil bad. |
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| Hanuman | Mar 24 2015, 02:13 AM Post #6 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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lets check for spark and for fuel...............follow my directions and report back test for spark: disconnect the center plug wire from the distributor that runs back to the coil. insert a clean spark plug into the center plug wire. grab jumper cables and connect the negative lead on one side to the battery negative post. connect the other negative jumper cable clamp to the threads of the spark plug. crank engine..............do you have spark? check for fuel: grab a bright flashlight anda friend. remove the aircleaner housing from the throttle body. (remove wing nut, unbolt tab from valve cleaner) have a friend crank the engine DO NOT CRANK AT FULL THROTTLE.....while they are cranking the engine shine the flashlight down the throttle body and watch just below the base of the injector.....you should see a fine cone of fuel being sprayed. the flashlight will reflect off the fuel making it easier to see. is the injector spraying fuel?............ do you have fuel? Y/N do you have spark? Y/N ................................................................ If no fuel and no spark then check all fuses with a dvom, and test all relays..... are fuses and relays good? Y/N if good, disconnect the crank position sensor and attempt to start at 1/4 throttle.....it may not idle with out holding the gas peddle down a little. cel will be on. ........Did it start? Y/N |
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| Hanuman | Mar 24 2015, 02:18 AM Post #7 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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if you have fuel and no spark: 1.35-1.65 ohms primary coil resistance @68 degreesF 22.1 - 29.9 Kohms secondary coil resistance @ 68F......replace if bad. ignition in run. terminal 1 of coil to ground is battery voltage.......if no, check feed wire. ignition in run. back probe terminal 2 and 4 of the noise suppresor filter to ground = battery voltage. if no, check wiring. disconnect noise suppressor filter. check terminal 3 and 4 resistance 2.2 Kohm. terminals 1-2 and terminals 3-4 resistance is infinity if no, replace. ignition on. disconnect ignition control module (igniter) terminal 1 to ground = battery voltage.....if no check wire. with a test ligt on battery + probe the ground circuite of the ignition control module. is light off? check ground circuit wires for a open. if light was on.....test light on battery + probe terminal 3 of the ignition control module. crank engine, does the light flash bright to dim? if yes replace the ignition control module. if no check for ashort or open in the ignition trigger signal wire. if good ecm is next on ther list.......but they are bomb proof......likely you missed something |
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| faygoninja | Mar 24 2015, 10:07 AM Post #8 |
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its getting fuel. the coil isnt firing. replaced with a new coil and still nothing. 80 bucks and a 35 mile drive one way. getting it towed back home. if it was the timing it wouldnt turn over right? |
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| Hanuman | Mar 24 2015, 02:35 PM Post #9 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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read my post #7 "test, dont guess"----MWEBB i provided everything you need to test on the ignition system for diagnosing "fuel, but no spark" good news is, you now have a spare ignition coil! |
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| Spellsing | Mar 24 2015, 04:27 PM Post #10 |
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Elite Member
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I would recommend following Hanuman's checklist step by step. I've been browsing the Full Service Manual and he's balls accurate on the troubleshooting guide he's written you. I know, it's a lot of work but do you want to keep buying parts you don't really need right now? I didn't want to do this stuff either, but I found out a multimeter is 10 bucks at walmart. |
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| scubaman | Mar 24 2015, 07:28 PM Post #11 |
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scubaman
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My workmate had the same symptoms, and it was because the timing belt broke. Of course you can crank the engine but its just the bottom half that's moving. Follow the steps. |
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| faygoninja | Mar 24 2015, 11:59 PM Post #12 |
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alright ill follow the steps. the intial "rush" was my second vehicle was on a flat. didnt want to really have to deal with it. now i got it back on its legs, its time for the metro...extra coil...thats a good one........ ![]() |
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| greenbean95 | Mar 25 2015, 07:04 PM Post #13 |
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Fresh Fish
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My manual doesnt show me where the cam / crankshaft sensor is located on my 95 1 Ltr. Is it on the right side of the distributor? or where. Thanks for your time forum. |
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| faygoninja | Mar 25 2015, 10:54 PM Post #14 |
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![]() ok so here is my problem, is this part of the distributor? what do i need to replace? it looks like a winding for the pick up...i think |
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| faygoninja | Mar 25 2015, 11:42 PM Post #15 |
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ok the p/u coil is blow out. now to find one on the cheap..... |
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