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| First Brake Job Advice | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 5 2015, 06:50 PM (2,272 Views) | |
| MechaGodzilla | Apr 9 2015, 10:16 AM Post #16 |
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Hey all! While I wait for my parts to arrive, I'm starting to gather materials. Anyone know what size plastic tubing fits on the bleed valves? I think that I heard 1/4" mentioned in one of the how-to bleed brakes videos- does that sound right? |
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 9 2015, 10:25 AM Post #17 |
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Troll Certified
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The nipples on your new calipers might be a different size, maybe. I would just wait until you get them and run to a hardware store and get a length of what you need. (bring the nipple) |
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| Old Man | Apr 9 2015, 11:34 AM Post #18 |
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Visit the fish supply area of your local hardware. The tubes they use for the air filters fit my brakes nipples. Also, if you know an old person on oxygen snag one of their old used nose pieces. That hose fits also. Easy way to bleed brakes/change fluid. get 4 quart jars. put hoses on all 4 nipples. open all 4 bleeders. keep the master cylinder filled. as each corner starts oozing clear fluid close the bleeder.----takes a while but worked on mine. |
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| MechaGodzilla | Apr 10 2015, 08:15 AM Post #19 |
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Thanks for all the great advice. The parts showed up yesterday (ordered Sunday night / standard shipping - thanks for the quick turnaround, RockAuto!) so hopefully I'll be able to start working on this tonight or tomorrow. I'll put up some pics as well. Good advice about bringing the new caliper nipple to the store, Coche Blanco. If I didn't have it with me I am certain to have bought the wrong tubing. Turned out to be 1/4" but they had tons of different sizes, so... Definitely want to try the 4 x corner bleed, Old Man. Maybe not on this project, but the brake fluid on my Accord needs to be changed out soon so I will probably try it then. Edited by MechaGodzilla, Apr 10 2015, 08:17 AM.
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| MechaGodzilla | Apr 11 2015, 12:58 PM Post #20 |
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Update...![]() New parts ![]() Driver side- before ![]() Passenger side- before OK, I managed to get the flexible brake line disconnected and was (eventually) able to remove the caliper and bracket from the driver side, but now I'm stuck. ![]() I can't get the Phillips screws out of the rotor. One of them looked a bit stripped before I even tried it. I also noticed that there aren't any bolt holes to help get these off so I guess I'm just going to have to beat on them until they loosen up? Anyone have advice on removing these screws? Also I don't see any replacement screws with the new rotors so I guess I will need to find some new ones. |
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| aaronvincent | Apr 11 2015, 01:15 PM Post #21 |
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Mr Mojo Risin'
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I just did the brakes on my 2000 and it turns out those screws don't do jack...so when you get them off you can toss them aside and leave them off. You need a phillips head that fits in the head perfectly with no wiggle room, I used a #3 phillips head on mine to prevent further stripping. You need to apply a generous amount of PB Blaster to the screws and let them sit for a few hours if not a day to loosen them up. When unscrewing put a good amount of force on the screwdriver to limit slippage and uneven contact. I had a hell of a time getting the caliper mounting bolts out, they were in there TIGHT. Had to soak them in blaster and tap them quite a few times to even get them to budge at all. Ended up stripping one of them Good luck with the rest, those calipers can be a PITA so take your time. Mine squeak for no known reason and they're brand new |
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| MechaGodzilla | Apr 11 2015, 01:29 PM Post #22 |
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I was hoping that there was some sort of "magic screwdriver" for this, but I guess I'm doing it right with the #3 + PB. ![]() I'll definitely leave those off when I install the new rotors. I haven't looked yet but I'm assuming there are torque specs for the caliper bolts. Luckily mine seem to be loosening w/o any huge issues. D/S are off and P/S are broken loose, but I'm leaving that side on for reference until I'm finished with the D/S. |
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| Old Man | Apr 11 2015, 02:02 PM Post #23 |
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Use a screwdriver that fits TIGHT, and one you can use a hammer on. Hold the screwdriver in place good and tight with a slight rotating pressure. Smack the screwdriver with a hammer just as you put excessive rotating pressure on the screwdriver.-----or----- go buy a screwdriver designed to hit with a hammer and automatically rotate. As a last resort, (my FIRST resort), use a 1/4 inch drill bit and drill the heads off. after the rotor is out of the way grind the bolts off smooth. Edited by Old Man, Apr 11 2015, 02:04 PM.
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| Woodie | Apr 12 2015, 03:51 AM Post #24 |
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There is a majik screwdriver, it's called an impact driver. I've heard it called a pit, but not lately, maybe that's an old timer's term.![]() Sometimes if you put a good quality screwdriver in there, put some anti-clockwise tension on it, and smack it with a hammer, it will jolt it free. Same idea as the impact driver without buying one. Never seen a rotor without the extra screw holes for getting it off, hope that doesn't turn into an issue. I'd sure be hitting the inner diameter of the rotor with PBlaster while I'm figuring out how to get the phillips screws out. |
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| sphenicie | Apr 12 2015, 08:33 AM Post #25 |
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use your digital camera to document, before you dig in. we did not have this option back in the dark ages, so cool to have this technology stuff! edit; I don't even mess with the rotor screws, if they don't come out right now, I just drill the heads out with 1/4" bit. you can grab the stub with grips OR just grind flush. Edited by sphenicie, Apr 12 2015, 08:39 AM.
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| MechaGodzilla | Apr 12 2015, 06:54 PM Post #26 |
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First, as many have suggested- this was the solution to the screws:![]() About 5 seconds per screw to drill out, then filed them flat. I had a lot going on yesterday so I finished up the driver side last night. a couple hours of work because I don't have the best tools and was being pretty methodical about everything. ![]() Passenger side went pretty quick this morning and then about an hour to bleed all four lines. Drove it around for a bit to make sure everything is holding together. No leaks or squeaks so far; the fluid level is holding steady. Thanks for the help everyone!
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| Good bye | Apr 12 2015, 07:10 PM Post #27 |
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That looks very nice, I am blessed with no road salt here in Oregon. |
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| MechaGodzilla | Apr 13 2015, 08:20 AM Post #28 |
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BTW- after doing this job, I have one piece of advice to add for a first timer: get the loaded calipers. It gave me serious peace of mind knowing that all of the parts were there and that I wouldn't be running to the auto parts store looking for stuff that I hadn't anticipated needing. |
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| Rondawg | Apr 13 2015, 09:14 AM Post #29 |
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Good job! Them darn Phillips screws gave me fits too. I tried heat from a propane torch, with an impact driver and plenty of penating oil too. Still had to drill one out. This was on a Carolina car with very little rust. |
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 13 2015, 03:12 PM Post #30 |
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Troll Certified
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I'm glad I was able to help, and I'm even glad(er) that you were able to get your brakes back up to par.
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