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| Electrical Draw | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 7 2015, 08:47 PM (1,667 Views) | |
| solerpower | Apr 7 2015, 08:47 PM Post #1 |
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The battery is draining quite quickly while off. I will have to get another test light or a new spring. Somehow it went missing in action. I will have to isolate it off the battery. My guess is the aftermarket headlights. I have the 92 supplement FSM and the 91 FSM on the way. |
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| Stubby79 | Apr 7 2015, 09:01 PM Post #2 |
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Is there a question in there somewhere? Unless the aftermarket headlights bypass the stock wiring, I don't see that being the problem. Only reason I can see for someone to even mess with the stock wiring would be for HIDs. How long is it taking your battery to drain? A multimeter would be more useful to detect how much draw you have. A battery on the way out might not hold a charge properly too. |
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| Woodie | Apr 8 2015, 06:14 AM Post #3 |
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The electric seatbelts in the door are often the cause of parasitic draw. If your doors don't make a "clunk" one or two seconds after you close them, then that's the problem. |
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| solerpower | Apr 8 2015, 08:30 PM Post #4 |
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It is HID's, and belts are manual. I have always used just a test light for draw. I guess the question was what are the common causes for parasitic draw? |
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| Stubby79 | Apr 8 2015, 08:56 PM Post #5 |
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Test light won't detect low-level draw, which most are. With a multimeter set to show current (milliamps, usually), you disconnect one cable from the battery terminal and put the meter in series between the terminal and the cable and it will show you just how much draw you have. Once you've confirmed an unreasonable draw (more than 100 milliamps), then you start pulling fuses, one at a time, and retest, until you find the offending circuit. From there you get to figure out/decide what on said circuit is causing the issue. and, if it's not on any of those fused circuits, you'll have to try disconnecting non-fused circuits, like the alternator. Someone here recently had a steady, slow draw on his alt... Edit: I suppose you could test each circuit right at the fuse box, if your probes are fine enough to go one in each side of the fuse that you pull out. Edited by Stubby79, Apr 8 2015, 09:01 PM.
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| solerpower | Apr 8 2015, 10:42 PM Post #6 |
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Yep. I still use a test light. The intensity of the light tells me the draw. I have never had the light not come on with even the smallest draw. I do have a small steady draw from the alternator. There must be something minutely grounding inside. I will pull the plug and test again. However, the main draw is from the tail fuse. I will now need to go through the different systems on the tail fuse and isolate. I think my 1992 supplement has most of the electrical wiring in it. The HID's do have an aftermarket 20 amp fuse. There is no draw from the fuse though. |
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| solerpower | Apr 8 2015, 11:16 PM Post #7 |
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Interesting. If the 92 gt is the same as the 89 gti the tail is all one connection. The most likely is the front side clearance lights. I had the front bumper skirt off, and maybe I somehow put tension on a wire or pulled out a wire that is now grounding. This should not be to hard to isolate.
Edited by solerpower, Apr 8 2015, 11:17 PM.
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| Hanuman | Apr 9 2015, 01:50 AM Post #8 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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the ecm has a continouse draw. its on the tailight circuit. most radios have a constant draw also. |
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| solerpower | Apr 9 2015, 03:11 AM Post #9 |
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I should state this is for a 1992 Suzuki Swift 1.3 DOHC GT. I was thinking about this wrong above. If it is the same as the 89. It will have to be between the 40 amp engine fuse and the inside fuse box (fusible link), or the fuse box and the light switch. There is no ecm control for the tail circuit, and the radio would be on the accessory circuit (there is no radio at the moment). This being the light switch will power the circuit, and nothing past it should be hot if the switch is working. Edited by solerpower, Apr 9 2015, 03:15 AM.
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| Woodie | Apr 9 2015, 06:15 AM Post #10 |
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The ECM memory and the radio memory are both on the taillight circuit. If your seatbelts are mounted on the door, they are electrically controlled, and are often the reason for parasitic drain on the battery. |
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| solerpower | Apr 9 2015, 07:58 AM Post #11 |
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I see what you mean that the automatic seat belt control module, and ECM are the tail fuse. I also found the light remainder warning buzzer and interior (dome) light, (clearance, tail and license lights), and key remainder warning buzzer. The radio I could not find a reference to it being on the tail. I will wait until I get my 91 fsm on hand. Should be tomorrow. I am not liking how they do not have a better wiring schematic in the fsm. I could not even find the color output for the ecm. Where is the automatic seat belt control module located? Thanks |
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| myredvert | Apr 9 2015, 09:50 AM Post #12 |
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myredvert
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The key to using the FSM well is spending enough time in it to learn what and where everything is located. Give yourself some time to get proficient at using it. Whenever possible I try to look up/research most every question/issue on here for a few reasons - one so I can get more time in the FSM to become more familiar with where everything is and to continue to become more proficient at using it properly, and also so any information (specs, provedures, etc) I may pass along are verified to be accurate and not made up. FSM Section 6E2-A2. Check the "ECM Connector Identification" charts that specify each connector pin and the corresponding wire color. FSM Section 8A-201, Electrical Diagnosis, Component Location Views identifies and shows the location of every component, connector, ground, splice, and pass through. "LH Cowl Wiring" shows the connector, "Instrument Panel Wiring" shows the component. Good luck! ![]() You say "your 1991 FSM is on the way." By any chance are you the one who got the two volume set off Ebay last night for < $20? If so, I temporarily hate you.
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| solerpower | Apr 9 2015, 10:47 AM Post #13 |
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No, I bought the 92 supplement for around $10 and the the 91 FSM for $30. I thought I got a good deal. $20 for both is a great deal. The seller who I bought the 91 FSM replied back almost instantly to my offer. I think I could have gone lower. I first had put a watch on it at $60, and the when I came back eBay kicked back a discounted price by the next day, and that is when I put in an offer. If you have ever read through the ford electrical and vacuum trouble-shooting fsm you will know why I am disappointed in the electrical wiring component part of the Suzuki fsm. |
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| solerpower | Apr 10 2015, 10:37 PM Post #14 |
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Okay I have narrowed it down to the main wire harness #1 from the fusible link. The draw is .42 Amps. According to the 92 supplement the system on the white wire on that harness which is the tail fuse are ECM, Dome Light, and automatic seat belt control module. Someone had left several ground wires hanging and had not mounted the fusible link properly. They had just mounted the ground. |
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| solerpower | Apr 11 2015, 07:06 PM Post #15 |
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And the award goes to Woodie. Driver side electrical connector (automatic seatbelts). Thanks. I did little bit more trouble shooting than I needed to. However, someone had really messed up the passenger side door dome light switch. There is a 1 1/2" sized hole where the switch use to be. This is what I call a crack head. Now I need to see what to do to fix the automatic seatbelt component. Again, I did not see anything in the fsm about it. I will search the forum first. |
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