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| Flood Start Only | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 16 2015, 10:51 PM (690 Views) | |
| solerpower | Apr 16 2015, 10:51 PM Post #1 |
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This morning on my way to work I stalled out getting on the freeway (92 Geo Metro, coil ignition, 5 speed). I could not start normally, but it will flood start (gas pedal all the way down). It will immediately die if I lift my foot off the accelerator, it will not idle. The only thing I did different this morning is I left it idling before leaving for 10+ minutes. It did not overheat. Things that I have ruled out or tested: Compression good Timing good, although rough trying to hold idle at 800rm. All fuses test out good Injector resistance tests out good. TPS sensor tested out good. ISC tested good Voltage to coil good. Fuel pump was pumping (fuel looked incredibly clear). I did a combustion test and it burns normally. Fuel relay was cycling for 2 seconds. Spark plugs looked okay, they looked wet with fuel. Distributor cap okay Distributor rotor okay CPS distance was right Resistance across distributor signal wires was right 170 However I tested power to the distributor signal wires with ignition on, and both were putting out only .69 volts. The 91 FSM for the Suzuki Swift non-gt ignition indicated that it should be 12 volts. Can someone confirm that is supposed to be 12 volts? I'm am thinking FI relay or ECM issues. What do you guys think? Edited by solerpower, Apr 16 2015, 10:53 PM.
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| solerpower | Apr 17 2015, 06:34 PM Post #2 |
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I swapped out the EFI relay with one I had on hand. No change. No check engine light except for 12. I need to finish up with the trouble diagnosis of Electronic Fuel Injection system parts whose trouble is not indicated by the self-diagnosis function. Hopefully tomorrow. |
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| Hanuman | Apr 17 2015, 07:16 PM Post #3 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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sounds like your injector is not closing, or the o-ring has failed. remove the air cleaner and housing lid. turn ignition to the run position for 2 seconds, then off, then back to run.....dont start.....do that cycle 2-3 times to insure the fuel injection system is fully pressurised. with a bright flash light shine down the throttle body and atch the base of the injector for drips. look for pudled fuel in the intake manifold. |
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| t3ragtop | Apr 17 2015, 07:21 PM Post #4 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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ditto on the injector failing. when they leak they dump raw fuel directly into the manifold and you have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to get the ecu to stop firing the injector in flood clear mode just to get the engine to cough to a start. |
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| solerpower | Apr 18 2015, 02:37 AM Post #5 |
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Thanks. I will check tomorrow.. I have a spare injector on hand and was planning on swapping it out. However the injector in the car is less than a year old. I remember the o-ring on the thing and something about installing it was slightly different than the original injector. I will laugh if it is the stupid o-ring. When I looked at the spray pattern it didn't look quite right. Edited by solerpower, Apr 18 2015, 02:38 AM.
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| Highwayman | Apr 18 2015, 11:16 AM Post #6 |
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I had a car flood once upon a time and it was a shorted to ground wire going to the MAP sensor on the firewall with the little vacuum hose on it. I know if you unplug it the car wants to die or run real ruff. I dont know what happens if it fails other than the time the wire had all the insulation burned off. I retaped the full length of wire then it quit flooding. |
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| Hanuman | Apr 18 2015, 05:29 PM Post #7 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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guy came to my house in a 94 advnced IM. dirty grounds. failed map. failed isc. brand new plugs ungapped and covered in soot. it barely drove over. almost could start hot it wasnt pretty.....lol cleaned the grounds...ran a little better. swapped and gapped plugs.....ran a little better. gave him my spare used map.....ran way better. turned idle speed screw...smooth idle. he baught a new map sensor, gave me the new one and kept my old one. i bumped into him a few months later, said its the best its run in 8 years! this summer im doing his clutch and fixing the isc. ....................................................... i had a bad vacuum line at my vacuum guage tee.....kept falling off creating a vacuum leak to the map sensor. runs rich, idles rough. low and mid rpm has more low end torque. i just put the vacuum line back on with out actualy repairing....allowing it slip off at will...about 13 times over a few weeks. experience is a very valuable tool |
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| solerpower | Apr 18 2015, 08:19 PM Post #8 |
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Fuel injector wasn't leaking. Replaced top 0-ring. Even tried the spare injector. Nothing. I realized that my spare ECM is not the same. I will try swapping out the MAP sensor. Vacuum and connection to it were good. The test for the MAP involves wiring some three volt batteries in parallel. I'll swap it first . I left the ECM hanging for the complete barage of testing. I will get back to it later when I feel up to it. |
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| solerpower | Apr 25 2015, 10:28 PM Post #9 |
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I tested out the entire fuel, ignition, and ecu including every sensor, and nothing was wrong. (All the way through the flow charts and even some additional testing. I was getting spark, and fuel was pumping. I could not get it to start on starter fluid. I replaced the plugs, no difference. I put some Sea Foam fuel treatment in the gas tank. I flood started it with the accelerator all the way down. This was minutes after putting the fuel treatment in. It was extremely hard to start. I had to crank for over a minute. Slowly I got it to start and rev up, but it still felt bogged down. I brought the rpm's down and had to feather the throttle to keep it running. I brought it back up and then I felt and heard the bogging blow through. The rpm's went all the way up, and when I brought it back down it was idling and running normally. I had slightly over half a tank, and had not recently fueled up. I'm thinking someone put water in the tank. There is still the slightest chance that it was a plugged cat, but I don't think so. |
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