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| simple starter problem? 92 metro manual | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 19 2015, 07:34 PM (1,542 Views) | |
| myredvert | Apr 22 2015, 03:55 PM Post #16 |
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myredvert
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![]() If you have access to (or get) a test light, you could also consider following the diagnostic/troubleshooting procedure for the starter circuit/system in the Factory Service Manual. FSM section 8A-30, Electrical Diagnosis Starter and Charging |
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| aeiou | Apr 22 2015, 07:42 PM Post #17 |
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New Member
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thanks again for all the suggestions. interestingly, i found this thread on the forum that details my EXACT problem: http://geometroforum.com/topic/3470853/1/ not sure if she solved it, but the logic used to diagnose the issue is pretty much what i gleaned from other threads and what you all told me. my buddy came over and we used a test light to find the problem. it seems like the problem is between the fuse box and the ignition. there is a relay between them that looks like it has been modified. when it won't start i just wiggle the wires until it does. i will post a pic when i figure out how. |
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| aeiou | Apr 22 2015, 08:14 PM Post #18 |
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![]() ![]() so these 2 pics show the relay between the fuse box and the ignition. the back light green translucent connector connects black w/yellow from the fuse box to a brown wire into the relay. the front light green translucent connector connects black yellow from the ignition into a yellow split - one black wire goes to the relay and the thick red wire goes into a fusable link which connects to the ECM(?) that bolts under the dash, it has also been altered i think. the other yellow split bridges white w/green and the thin red wire which also goes into the altered ECM. my buddy didn't think was factory and had no idea what was going on. the yellow spilt on the white w/green wire has a lot of bare wire showing. ![]() the ECM is wrapped with electrical tape and has two bare wires - one green, one black - coming out of it. you can see the thin and thick red wires going into it. the white wire goes from the relay to the ECM. so can someone tell me what is going on here? and would wrapping the white w/green wire at the yellow split, again bare wire exposed Edited by aeiou, Apr 22 2015, 09:10 PM.
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| aeiou | Apr 22 2015, 08:19 PM Post #19 |
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on 2nd thought, could this be a solution to the clicky starter issue talked about often the forum?
Edited by aeiou, Apr 22 2015, 10:39 PM.
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| Metromightymouse | Apr 23 2015, 05:40 AM Post #20 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Not likely. It appears to be an ignition interlock for an alarm or breathalyzer type device. Since you are in Portland, if you don't feel confident in doing wiring work and want to drive to Longview you can shoot me a PM and we can see if something can be worked out. You can also PM Mythstae and her wire for hire service and she can likely sort it out for you as well. The best solution is to cut out the damaged wires (or cut them where they are damaged), remove all the non factory wiring and devices, and solder and heat shrink the factory wiring back together. The part at the end is not the ecu, it might be the factory service port, but I suspect it's part of whatever was installed and should be removed. The most helpful thing at this point would be the correct wiring diagram out of the FSM. |
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| myredvert | Apr 23 2015, 06:57 AM Post #21 |
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myredvert
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Something you haven't told us? ![]() The Engine Control Module (ECM) is a module that controls the engine - in other words, a computer (located higher up under the dash). Judging by the shape and number of terminals, to me it looks like the Data Link Connector/Serial Data Port that is used to connect a Tech 1 Scan Tool to read data from the ECM. Possibly they used some of the terminals for whatever type of "system" was patched in?
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| Metromightymouse | Apr 23 2015, 08:45 AM Post #22 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Um, if one of those was installed on my car, it would eventually be plunged into an existential crisis... Why do I exist... What is my purpose... why does he always blow me yet I feel nothing... Can I even measure at this point... I don't know if I work, can't it just all end... |
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| aeiou | Apr 23 2015, 11:05 AM Post #23 |
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ha! a real mystery! i traded some art and cash considerations to a good friend of mine for the car. she had gotten it from a mechanic who had picked it up out of a salvage yard and frankensteined it back together (it has a salvage title.) perhaps the breathalyzer didn't stop the fool after all.... since it starts again, i'll watch it awhile, study the FCM and see if it starts acting up again. this is the first car i've ever worked on and since i have truck as well i have the time to learn how to fix it each time it putzes out. its always worth it cuz of the mileage to keep it going. thanks again for your help, i'll keep you posted... |
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| Metromightymouse | Apr 23 2015, 01:53 PM Post #24 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Here is my personal assessment, now that I can look at the crimps up close on my computer instead of on my phone. The crimps were done by a tool that is not owned by most home mechanics making this, at least possibly, done at a professional shop. That doesn't speak to the quality of the work or components, but it does make it a little less likely to be a hack job done in someones driveway. The yellow connectors are what is called a splice, but they are a variety I have not had in hand so I don't know how much damage they did to the actual wires. The splice is squeezed over a wire and cuts through the insulation to make contact with the wire inside. Usually this damages the wire by cutting many of the strands of wire and over time the metal of the splice stops making contact with the wires. I don't know if that is going on in this case. The exposed wire is bad, especially if the wires or components are free to move around under the dash. I understand the "leave well enough alone" policy pretty damn well, and there has been many a time I wish I had listened to the voice in the back of my head that was saying it. Normally when I'm done, things are much better than when I started, it was just more work than I wanted, or even thought I was getting into. You can see what a mess I made for myself in the wiring over 15 years with this car in my project thread. It is all resolved now and much better than it has been in years. My recommendation is to get the FSM wiring diagram and use it to return the wiring to the way it left the factory. Using butt connectors is acceptable if you have a good crimp tool and make strong, solid connections. The better solution is to cut where the wires are damaged and solder them back together and cover the connections with heat shrink insulation. Butt connectors are a long term temporary connection (they should outlast the car). Soldering is a permanent connection. |
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