Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
95 2 door gti swap
Topic Started: Apr 26 2015, 08:58 PM (3,976 Views)
jeremy_nash


so I am swapping a g13b from an 89 gti into my 95

fully rebuilt, arp rod bolts, arp head studs, .5mm overbore flat top pistons. bd10 profile cams
g16 oil pump

Posted Image

Posted Image

after 2 months of working on it in my spare time, a friend came over and the motor is finally in!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Good bye


That looks like fun. Keep us posted!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash


Well it is going to have microsquirt for engine management, so I will be working on the wiring next. I also have to modify the trans mount on the drivers side as only one stud from the mount lines up with the trans bracket.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Good bye


I think when I went the other way with a 95 I just drilled a new hole through the frame rail and used a long grade 8 bolt and nut. I used the correct bracket for the trans.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Stubby79
Member Avatar


:drool
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash


I am using the correct bracket for the trans, I am going to modify the tranny mount by welding the bottom of an old one to it, offset so that it will allow the use of both bolt holes in the bracket.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash



have made a little more progress on the car, microsquirt can only drive one low impedence injector, or 4 high impedence injectors per channel. stock gti injectors are low impedence, so I would have to run resistors, or swap to high impedence injectors. I opted for the latter, selecting a set from a 97 suzuki esteem. I used the harness from a 2000 esteem, modifying the injector clips so that it would have a single disconnect to ease in possible future troubleshooting. the injector pintle caps I wasn't a fan of, so I removed the pintle caps from the stock gti injectors, and used them with the new injectors.

anyway, on with the pics

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image


Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash


I have also made some progress on the wiring, will be using some of the factory wiring, to operate the cooling fan, the temperature gauge, and the oil pressure light. all extraneous wiring has been removed where appropriate. no progress pics of that though.
Edited by jeremy_nash, May 17 2015, 07:37 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
punkozuna
Member Avatar


Awesome swap! Please keep us updated. Especially when you get to the megasquirt tuning stage.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash


Once I get the rough basemap to idle and driveable, I plan to use the autotune feature of tunerstudio to finetune the maps
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
solerpower
Member Avatar


Which version do you have? Isn't Microsquirt version one? I really need to read up on Megasquirt. Engine looks nice. What compression ratio did you go with?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash


Went with stock compression ratio of 10to1. Microsquirt is based off of the megasquirt 2, and running the msextra firmware, it can decode the stock reluctor wheel in the distributor!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
solerpower
Member Avatar


Is this being turbo charged or did you just want to play around with the engine management system?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy_nash


It will one day be turboed, if I can come up with a placement that will let me keep ac. Also, I have been Interested in the megasquirt engine management and the things it allowd you to do, such as percentage based ethanol corrrction, its integration with my wideband, and many other things!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
t3ragtop
Member Avatar
Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the reason the ms2 will decode the cam angle sensor is that because caaarlo wrote the code for the ms1 and migrated it to the ms2.

and that's how it is done. you input the data to go through the automatic build of the base mapping and get a start and idle. after you go through all the checks at idle, and one of the big ones is dialing in the dwell so that your coil doesn't burn up. another one that will give you fits is dialing in the potentiometers on the front end of the signal conditioning circuitry. that signal conditioning circuit interacts with v/r sensors and turns them into voltage generators.

the hard part of moving to turbo with the microsquirt is that you will absolutely want to run in sequential injection and the ignition has got to be perfectly rock steady. with the v/r on the crank trigger wheel i was generating nearly 70 volts at around 6000 rpm and it was causing the ignition to fart and reset. if that happens when the engine is on boost and under load you will shoot a connecting rod straight through the front of the block. ;)

i ended up going outside of the normal megasquirt box and re-designed the timing controls and depopulating the ms2 ver. 3.0 board of all the signal conditioning bits, even the crystal. i used hall effect devices on the crank and cam, outboard hed conditioning circuits that had outputs that i ran straight to the pins on the processor. that turned the timing signals into the "clock" instead of comparing the timing signals to the crystal's frequency.

the result was rock steady timing tested to 18,200 rpm. ;)

i also used the jbperf 4 channel board to move all the drivers off the ms2 main board. that got rid of all of the components for injector drivers from the main board. i used individual, discrete ignitors, the oem hitachi bits used on suzuki cars, to move the big drivers out under the hood and those work like a charm while removing some other heat generating parts from the megasquirt's case.

on your wiring, the megasquirt is really susceptible to ground loops so you want to designate a single point on the engine block and connect all of your grounds to that point. it's called a "star" grounding method. i even incorporated all of my instrumentation and gauges into that grounding technique.

when you are filling in the blanks in tuner studio to set the base mapping, don't forget to change the starter speed from the default and pay attention to battery voltage default so that voltage sag doesn't keep causing resets before the engine catches.

and this one almost drove me nuts. it's really hard to provide a tachometer signal from the megasquirt. the only way i could accomplish that was to build a transistor circuit that fired into a relay coil turned into an inductor. the flyback from the collapsing magnetic field around that relay coil was enough "oomph" for the stock tach to operate. actually, making the factory tach operate took a lot of tinkering and maybe 4 shots at building a circuit with the correct transistor and coil combination. the key is to generate a flyback pulse that's big enough to run the tach. on the pre-98 instrument clusters the tach signal is derived from the flyback pulses off the ignition coil and that signal is massaged by the noise filter which a basic pi filter. the resultant pulse has to be 17 volts or higher to make the oem tach work. ;)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Project Forum · Next Topic »
Add Reply