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GTI brakes mod; Need a little advice
Topic Started: May 10 2015, 01:52 PM (856 Views)
Otey13
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Geo Nerd

Just picked these up the other day. :rocker It was too good of a deal, this is the second set that I have. The first ones need a lot of work :smackface
As you can see the fronts have new rotors and pads, the rears have been turned with new pads and the calipers have been rebuilt with new bearings pressed in the rears. But I'm having trouble finding an OEM new or used Proportioning valve. I was thinking of going with the after market Russell from Oreilly. Any thoughts? Suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks :thumb



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evmetro


I have not done this mod, so I do not know about the details, so I am wondering why you need another proportioning valve. Is there something wrong with your old one, or do you need a different one for this mod?

I have done custom brake systems with Tilton and Wildwood products, but I am not familiar with the Russell ones. If I needed a proportioning valve, I would not hesitate to use an aftermarket one, but the stock one would be the easiest, since you would not need to adapt anything.
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Otey13
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Geo Nerd

Thanks evmetro! :thumb Well I was told this because I'm going from drum to disk in the rear that I need one. If you have to slam on the brakes it keeps the back brakes from locking up first. The valve keeps most of the braking power on the fronts then it closes the backs. Our metro's have one built into the master cylinder but it's for rear drum. I think :D after I have looked it up on the web :smackface It has something to do with the drums start open then close when brakes are applied, if you swap drums for rear calipers the calipers are already closed, hence I need to regulate the rear calipers to keep them from locking up first. The Russell you can adjust up to 60%. Was also looking at the JEGS valve.

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Good bye


The factory proportioning valve is adjustable if needed. I ran my car with 98 front brakes with the GT rear discs for two years with the stock valve. Everyone said I needed to install the correct valve. When I installed the 1.3 I installed the GT valve, I could not tell any difference between the two. The car stopped great both ways, I would say try it. I drove it in snow and ice with no problems.
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Otey13
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Geo Nerd

me and my metro
May 10 2015, 04:22 PM
The factory proportioning valve is adjustable if needed. I ran my car with 98 front brakes with the GT rear discs for two years with the stock valve. Everyone said I needed to install the correct valve. When I installed the 1.3 I installed the GT valve, I could not tell any difference between the two. The car stopped great both ways, I would say try it. I drove it in snow and ice with no problems.
Thanks for the info :thumb Did you adjust the factory valve? and if you did was it by trial and error?

By the way sorry you sold your car :(
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

there's a steel cap clamped to the proportioning valve's body by 4 bent fingers. straighten out the fingers and pull the cap off. then you will see the stem and lock nut.

the proportioning valve's job is to adust the applied hydraulic pressure to the rear system so that the rear brakes don't lock up before the front brakes.

i have run the vert proportioning valve with the 4 wheel disc conversion but you can get your stopping distance tuned up by adjusting the valve. it takes some work and a lot of trial and error braking. ;)
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Otey13
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Geo Nerd

t3ragtop
May 10 2015, 05:29 PM
there's a steel cap clamped to the proportioning valve's body by 4 bent fingers. straighten out the fingers and pull the cap off. then you will see the stem and lock nut.

the proportioning valve's job is to adust the applied hydraulic pressure to the rear system so that the rear brakes don't lock up before the front brakes.

i have run the vert proportioning valve with the 4 wheel disc conversion but you can get your stopping distance tuned up by adjusting the valve. it takes some work and a lot of trial and error braking. ;)
Bout time you chimed in :D So do you think the best way to adjust it is put the car up on some stands(safely) no wheels and run the car and adjust the brakes or just find a vert replacement?
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Good bye


I did not adjust the factory 91 valve, and I could not tell any difference with the GT valve. And adjusting it in the air won't help, it is all about weight transfer and tire grip.
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Otey13
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me and my metro
May 10 2015, 05:43 PM
I did not adjust the factory 91 valve, and I could not tell any difference with the GT valve. And adjusting it in the air won't help, it is all about weight transfer and tire grip.
Great advice! I'll need to take it all in, I just don't want to have to do things twice and I don't want to hurt the car. :(
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

eventually i swapped in the gt proportioning valve. from what i can see there are 4 part numbers spread across the model ranges. they are the same valve, just different adjustments and parts numbers with different colors on the stickers.

one time i pulled the cap off a gt proportioning valve, loosened the lock nut, and counted the turns as i ran the adjuster screw in so i would know what the setting was for the 4 wheel disc brakes. i wrote the number down so i have it somewhere for reference but i forget where it is.

you won't hurt anything by running the base model geo metro proportioning valve, it just won't be the factory adjustment for the rear discs.
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Otey13
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Geo Nerd

Thanks t3 and me and my metro and everybody else that has helped me with this.
I'll try them all and see what works best.
I will update with the findings :thumb
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

I am going to watch this mod. I really want to do this.

Do you need the larger rims or will thirteens work ( I have newer michellins on the car and nice alloy rims.)
Edited by calrenman, May 18 2015, 06:28 AM.
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Good bye


I had to grind one bugger weld on one wheel to clear the rear discs. I ran 13" steels on this car for a couple years. Since I had 98 front brakes there was no problem there. I do not know if 13" wheels clear GT fronts.
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Otey13
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Geo Nerd

I'll be doing the thread when I get back from Texas, around the 2nd week of June, brakes, new kyb's, lowering springs, anti sway bars, and A/C. I took my other set of 13's and bolted them on just to see if that would be a problem and they cleared just barely. But I think I'm going with new 14's anyway. I want to see the calipers though the wheels :rocker
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Otey13
May 18 2015, 10:32 AM
I'll be doing the thread when I get back from Texas, around the 2nd week of June, brakes, new kyb's, lowering springs, anti sway bars, and A/C. I took my other set of 13's and bolted them on just to see if that would be a problem and they cleared just barely. But I think I'm going with new 14's anyway. I want to see the calipers though the wheels :rocker
:gp I have KYBs, drilled and slotted 1998 brakes, Full urethane suspension, Defenders and nice Alloy rims I plan on keeping. That is why I am asking. I have cool spokes so the visuals would be nice. Thanks.
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