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Front Left Brake Issue
Topic Started: May 19 2015, 04:25 PM (689 Views)
Raingutter
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It began when I thought I had fixed a rusted slider (bottom) for the caliper. Cleaned and greased both sliders and with the plunger pushed down, the caliper would move back and forth like it should. As soon as the brakes are applied, plunger comes out and does not go back. Put new caliper on and it does the same thing. Replaced rubber brake line, problem persists. Even bled out the line at the master cylinder. Rotor is in decent shape and newer pads (4 months old). Running out of ideas and not looking forward to a master cylinder replacement when the evidence isn't really pointing to it. Any suggestions? Tips?

Thanks.
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idmetro
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Have you considered the booster vacuum line: http://geometroforum.com/topic/4744675/1/
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solerpower
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By plunger do you mean the brake piston? New or used rubber brake line? Is this front left, or front right? If front right, there is the transfer hub in the middle. I would pull the line off and have some one push on the pedal. Does fluid come pouring out? If not move up to the joint in the fender well and separate. Do the same thing. If right then pull off line at transfer hub, same thing. If still nothing, remove hub and try again. If still nothing replace master cylinder. It is also possible to have a D.O.A. for brake caliper.

Geez, posted and looked at your title. Disregard stuff on right.
Edited by solerpower, May 19 2015, 10:58 PM.
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Mrbreeze


When ya bled the brakes was the pressure that came out pretty much the same at both wheels? Or was one like a garden hose and one like a fire hose? If one was extreme, could be proportioning valve.. Just re-read your post, you may want to bleed the system, at least you'll have fresh fluid in it..
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Hotrodray1
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Over Educated parts guy

After you push down pedal crack bleeder does fluid squirt out or just dribble out?
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Raingutter
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I will check the booster vacuum line and report back after I get home from work.

When bleeding the brakes, it squirts out, no dribble, so lots of forward pressure.
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Raingutter
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I checked the two hoses for the booster vacuum and my findings are....... :)

The vacuum hose that connects to the intake and the metal line looked almost as bad as the picture in the above link. I switched that out. Good to go there.

The vacuum hose that connects to the booster and the metal line looked good. I was able to blow air through it from the metal line to booster side but was unable to go the opposite way. I then noticed a "whatamacallit" in the hose and figured it was in there to keep the air going one way. Is that hose supposed to be one way or should it go both ways?
Caliper still not functioning right and it is doing the same thing.

Any other suggestions?
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idmetro
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kind of a shot in the dark but I have seen an occasion on a different vehicle where the incorrect caliper got installed on a wheel and it misbehaved badly. I know you said you have replaced the caliper but are you certain you got the correct one? Might be worth a bit of extra legwork to make sure...
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

Yes, it is a one way hose.
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Raingutter
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idmetro, I wish that was the problem, but it's practically identical to the old one, including the malfunction going on. :lol

Metromightymouse, Thank you for your answer. :thumb

My next step is to switch out the master cylinder and booster this weekend and see what happens. :x
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Raingutter
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Well, problem fixed. No more stuck caliper. I changed the rotor and got my mpg's back. :thumb

Thanks for all the suggestions. It's greatly appreciated.
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solerpower
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Rotor or master cylinder.
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