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Help me choose a nice metro? :)
Topic Started: May 30 2015, 08:13 PM (591 Views)
Squrl888
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
Hey guys! Glad to have found this forum. I'm in Minnesota and 22 years old. College student without lots of money :shake

My car has finally turned to dust, literally. The frame on my Nissan hardbody pickup is almost nonexistent. It's a shame because everything else is nice about that car. Minnesota weather is tough because of all the salt on the road. Lots of potholes too.

Anyway! The government gave me $3500 in loans for a class that I ended up not being able to take. I could just pay that back on the loan or get myself a decent car so I don't have to bicycle everywhere I go (which I am doing now). I'm really interested in getting a Metro....and boy the verts look fun!

So a few questions:

Here's a CL ad that looks promising:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/cto/4997853317.html

Here's a few more, but they're automatics:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/cto/5019115674.html
-and-
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/5023846464.html

Is the pricing fair?

I have never driven a manual before. Would it be feasible for me to drive one of these home right away? Minimum trip would be about 20 minutes on highway and 10 minutes on neighborhood roads. I would like to learn how to drive manual, but for now I have no experience except for reading about it online :(

Is automatic a reasonable route? I understand the MPGs aren't as good, but they're still pretty high, right? Atleast high 30's? What about durability, does an automatic transmission mean more work, money, and pain down the road?

I have read some of the stickied posts here and know that I have to look for certain things. Especially things like rust on the rocker panels and such with the convertibles. Now, I barely know anything about cars. I would like to learn, and that's actually a positive for me because you guys say it's pretty easy to repair these metros. So I will have to look up what rocker panels look like and everything else to make sure the car is in good shape. I have no tools and no experience, but I'm willing to buy tools and try to fix things up. Hopefully I wont have to fix anything on these cars right away. But down the line...about how much would you say it will cost to get tools and to repair these cars to make sure they run reliably and for a long time? Especially being in Minnesota, I would like to find a way to protect all the parts I don't want to rust.


Is the convertible worth it? I think it would be fun to drive, but on craigslist someone just posted a 1993 XFI manual with 120k miles on it for $1500
Here's the link: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/cto/5050471446.html
Maybe this route would be better for the better gas mileage and lower up front cost?


Finally, I can expect these metros to last me a while, right? Especially if I put the time and money into taking good care of them?

Thank You All
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punkozuna
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Hi squrl888! Welcome to GMF. Looks like you found out that wanting a convertible carries a price premium. Since you found 3 of them nearby and they all are asking $3K, that seems to be about the going rate unless you can bargain some on the price.

An auto will get you mid 30s on the freeway. Some report better mileage but mid 30s seem to be the most common. Not really bad but I get 40-42 on my manual convertible driving it hard. As bad (or worse IMO) is that you give up performance. Metros are not fast cars but they are SLOOOW with an automatic. The automatics on Metros are pretty reliable -for an automatic- but all of the cars you are looking at are 20+ years old and it's hard to tell the condition on a craigslist ad.

You COULD teach yourself to drive the manual car home from purchasing it - many people have - but I wouldn't recommend it. If you buy a manual trans car, you could make a condition of sale that they drive to your house (or close by). I would certainly deliver a car I was selling to someone half an hour away if they showed up and paid for it. I think most people would.OR you could find a friend/relative to drive it for you. At home you can teach yourself easier.

Please read up on making safe craigslist transactions - take a friend, let someone know where you are going, meet somewhere public and busy during daytime (walmart parking lot, police station etc). I do this and many of the people I buy/sell with also ask for this. If a seller won't agree to it, don't go. I'd only take enough money for a deposit to hold the car ($100 is usually enough). When you find the car you want, check the title to make sure it looks right and that the VIN matches the VIN on the car. If that looks OK, negotiate and settle on a price. Offer them $100 as a deposit to hold the car while you go the bank for the rest. If they want to go to bank with you, that's OK - it's a public place and a good place to exchange the cash for the car. You've got to size people up - flaky and sketchy vibes will cause me to walk away even if there is no concrete reason that I can see. It's a $3k car, there are a lot of those around and it's not worth getting mugged or worse.

As for tools to learn to work on these, a couple of hundred bucks will give you a very good start.

It's hard to tell how much money it will take to keep your Metro on the road. They are about as cheap as it gets for the parts and labor costs of working in them and will last until it rusts away, gets totaled in accident or you get tired of fixing it. But the newest Metro is 15 years old, the oldest are 25. Many used car sellers lie about mileage - old Metros have 5 digit speedos that only go to 99999 miles and car that old likely has turned over the speedo once or twice. Even newer ones with 6 digit speedos have often have speedos turned back or replaced. Carfax can help determine mileage but it isn't perfect - if a Carfax is bad, run from the car. If the Carfax is good, inspect further. An inspection by a trusted mechanic (at your expense) or from a friend whose been around for a few used car purchases would be very helpful.

In today's market, you can buy brand new cars for $12-15k (even less near large cities, even less if you buy late model, used [my 2012 Sonic with 33K miles is worth about $8k on trade in and not a lot more retail). You'll get brand new and a warranty. It does not take long for a $3k POS to cost you $12K - if you have a couple of major things go wrong.

Here's an autotrader search for Minneapolis area, new cars below $14k. On the front page are many between $11-12k. IF I had $3k to buy a Metro convertible and NEEDED a reliable car, I'd put the $3K down and buy one of those. It's safer, has AC, more reliable, gets good mileage, will last 100k+ miles, smells new and has a warranty. You will probably put as much money every month on Metro repairs as the payments on one of these.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/New+Cars/cars+under+14000/Minneapolis+MN-55401?

If you really can't afford the payments, you can get used cars less than 10 years old with fewer than 60k miles for $6-8K.
Still a better bet IMO than a 20 year old Metro if you must depend on the car.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/Used+Cars/cars+under+8000/Minneapolis+MN-55401?

A Metro is a good 1st car if you want to learn to work on cars, can afford to have it break down occasionally and have someone around to help you learn the ins and outs of buying, selling and working on used cars. It's a real good car if you are a seasoned mechanic, don't have much money, can avoid buying a real POS and don't mind working on the car. It's not a good car if you have to depend on the thing to get you to work

If you go for a Metro CHECK FOR RUST!
Edited by Metromightymouse, May 31 2015, 10:40 AM.
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punkozuna
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This one seems a bit cheaper and the owner claims the frame horns are rust free:
http://stcloud.craigslist.org/cto/5039157320.html

This might be worth considering - 40k miles, decent mileage,

removed to correct forum display, sorry. MMM
Edited by Metromightymouse, Jun 1 2015, 04:16 AM.
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RONNIEREDLINE
METRO MAD MAN

i would pay back the loan, they charge a hefty interest rate, and if they ever find out you didnt spend it on the education, you might get into trouble, just saying, if you give it back, no troubles for sure ????
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myredvert
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myredvert

you need to Pm members perfesser and 1DCGUY. Ask then if they might be available to give you some "hands on" training on what to look for, or if they might be interested in checking out any Metro that looks promising. Offer to pay them fairly for their time - it would be the best investment you could ever make if you end up getting a Metro.

The biggest unknown besides rust is the condition of the engine - it's not uncommon at ALL for people to sell off their Metro becasue they are having engine issues or a mechanic told them it needed a rebuild. A compression check before buying would be in order if you hope to find a car that you know won;t end up needing a rebuild just to make it even semi-reliable.

If you need to get a reliable car you need to be careful, put some serious research and effort onto picking the right one, and try to enlist some "professional' help.

Good luck! :cheers
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Squrl888
Fresh Fish
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Thanks! you guys are awesome!
I have read but will be rereading and considering these posts.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the input :)

About the loan - Yeah....I do feel bad considering using that loan for something other than education.
Fact is my car just broke down and I'm biking everywhere right now.
It's tempting to use some of that money towards a car.
I can probably save up $1500 in a couple months though.
I don't wanna be on my bike in a thunderstorm though, but I can just annoy my gf or friends for rides every time that happens.

And thanks for the links too punkzona :cheers
Edited by Squrl888, May 30 2015, 10:51 PM.
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idmetro
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Great advice above. I would also add that after getting a vehicle you should seriously consider getting yourself a AAA membership with the extended towing option. It will take some $$$ but at the price of towing the break even point is pretty much one use... An added benefit is that the membership goes with you not the car, so if you are travelling with someone else and they break down you just dial up AAA and they send a truck to help - I've used it several times when in someone elses vehicle, can't tell you how nice it is to know that you don't have to wake people up or ask them to come get you when you are hours away from home
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nineoneandblue
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Anyone notice or have the same problem looking at this topic. The page is too big from left to right, I have to scroll right to read the entire post or see the post # in the right corner. All other topics I open into are fine, just this one is different....... odd :hmm
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

It's the links, I'm attempting to correct it.
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nineoneandblue
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Thanks.... glad it's not just me.
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Metromightymouse
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Fixed.

As far as the loan is concerned, if the terms of the loan say it is for education related expenses, transportation to school counts. If it says it is for books or tuition only, then purchasing a car with it would be an issue.
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punkozuna
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After re-reading your situation (college student, no regular income <I assume>, $3500 lump sum to work with), I have to lean more toward ronnieredline's response. You just don't have enough time or money available to take a risk on a $3k car. Maybe spend a little on your bicycle (add an electric drive kit?) or look for a cheap moped/motorscooter (avoid the uber-cheap nobrand, Chinese models. A 1980s/90s Honda scooter is a much better bet on the low end of the price range - just look for a good one). I know that a bicycle or scooter isn't realistic for year-round use in Minn.

If you do decide to get a car, THE most important thing is to buy one in the best condition you can find. A gas hog in great shape is WAY cheaper and less hassle than an econo car in poor shape. I'd probably stick to U.S., major Japanese (Honda, Toyota, Nissan) or Korean brands.

One type of car that comes up in my searches that IMO is probably your best risk is the "retirement car" or "grandpa car". These are usually mid-size domestic cars (Buick Regals, Olds Auroras, Ford Taurus etc) that people buy just before they retire. They almost always are v-6, automatic with air conditioning. Often, these cars will go 10-15 years without accumulating much mileage. Then the owners die and the heirs aren't interested in an old, unexciting car.
When you get one of these cars you can often get a few years worth of use before something big comes up. They still need to be inspected and evaluated like any other used car before buying but the seem to be have the best risk-to-reward ratio for someone that NEEDS a cheap car.
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nineoneandblue
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I'm still seeing the same screen.
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Metromightymouse
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nineoneandblue
May 31 2015, 10:54 AM
I'm still seeing the same screen.
Fixed.
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