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| Subwoofers do not bump [3000 Watts] | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 9 2015, 09:30 PM (2,549 Views) | |
| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 09:30 PM Post #1 |
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I have two subs one at 500 RMS watts and the other at 400 peak watts and they are in parallel to put 2 ohms on the amp (4//4). The amp is 3000 RMS watts which should be like 1000 RMS right? which would blow my subs but they just dont bump hard core. What am I doing wrong? Thanks, GoingG |
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| RONNIEREDLINE | Jun 9 2015, 09:53 PM Post #2 |
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METRO MAD MAN
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subs need to be in a box and also have a vent hole at the right size for the box. i guess you have all this? maybe your amp isnt putting that much out? is it new? got the right wire size for the amp and speakers? maybe someone else can chime in that knows more about the newer stereos they have out today, im kind not up to date with them. redline |
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 09:56 PM Post #3 |
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yup I have I think 4 guage and then around 22 for the speaker wire. I think the amp would bump my speakers to move shit. I can notice the bass but its not ruining my hearing at 22 like it should be doing |
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| evmetro | Jun 9 2015, 10:04 PM Post #4 |
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You don't want to run two different subs in parallel, especially in the same box. I am not sure what amp you are running, but if you want a rough idea of how many watts it really is, look up the average retail price. How ever many dollars this is, it should be right around how many real watts your amp is capable of. |
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 10:14 PM Post #5 |
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it goes for 100. It is a Boss AR3000D. Also it has an input sensitivity from 100mV - 2V or 2V-8V and gets reall soft and quiet when I turn it to 2V-8V which I think is weird. Should I wire them in series? |
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| RONNIEREDLINE | Jun 9 2015, 10:15 PM Post #6 |
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METRO MAD MAN
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22 gauge sounds kinda small for big subs and the wattage your pushing? |
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| bkelly | Jun 9 2015, 10:19 PM Post #7 |
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Gear Head
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EV MetroThere is so much involved in a proper setup. Its not just throwing subs in a box. I hate prefab ported boxes, it's a waste of money. Ported enclosures need to be built to the subs TS specs and tuned to a specific frequency. There also also specs for sealed enclosures. Also what is the voltage at the amp and the fuse rating on the amp. New amps are so overrated in power, I prefer amps with low THD and a true RMS rating. My amps are old school unregulated power supply and are underrated on power. They also weigh about 3 times of most of today's amps. Edited by bkelly, Jun 9 2015, 10:24 PM.
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 10:19 PM Post #8 |
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I have a DMM idk if that can measure RMS Volts EV. It is rated PEAK POWER @ 2Ω 2200 Watts x 1. maybe the amp cant deliver the kind of power I thought it could? |
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 10:21 PM Post #9 |
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bkelly you mean the fuses on the amp or the fuse I have on my power wires |
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| bkelly | Jun 9 2015, 10:24 PM Post #10 |
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Gear Head
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Fuses on the amp Edit I looked up the specs, it's fused 60 amps. I would recommend an alternator upgrade. Also look into OHMS law. http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw2.html 14 volts at 60 amps yields 840 watts To calculate the circuit power... The formula is W = V x I or, W = I2 x R or, W = V2 / R Edited by bkelly, Jun 9 2015, 10:34 PM.
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 10:32 PM Post #11 |
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I took two classes on electronics so I got that down V=IR. the fuses on the amp should be 60. People are saying I should not be running two different subs so I am going to try and get the same ones in it and see if that helps. Wouldn't the alternator only need to be upgraded if my lights were dimming?
Edited by GoingGranola, Jun 9 2015, 10:34 PM.
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| bkelly | Jun 9 2015, 10:34 PM Post #12 |
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Gear Head
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The specs I looked up was two 30 amp fuses. |
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 10:35 PM Post #13 |
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ya let me go run out and check that lol |
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| GoingGranola | Jun 9 2015, 10:38 PM Post #14 |
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http://imgur.com/bZCmu5b too lazy, this pic say 70 in total but that is a max of (70*14) equals around 980 rms? also Im running the alpine DVC as a Single 4 ohm coil. idk if that makes a difference Edited by GoingGranola, Jun 9 2015, 10:39 PM.
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| bkelly | Jun 9 2015, 10:41 PM Post #15 |
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Gear Head
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As stated also. Always use the same subs together, running the lowest impedance isn't always good for sound quaility and it causes the amps to run hotter. I always build with plenty of head room. Get a amp that have a good bit of RMS power over the speakers rating and turn down the gain. The THD stays low and the amp runs at a happy thermal load. Go to features and specs http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_52122_Boss-AR3000D.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Item_Brand_SKU&scid=scawd9365874&gclid=CKqqwemahMYCFQ-SaQodoB4A4g there is no need in beating a dead horse. Right now I would be concerned with the voltage supply from the alternator, alternator wire upgrade and a SOLID ground. Also loud is a relative term, what's loud to one person may not be loud to another. Edited by bkelly, Jun 9 2015, 10:47 PM.
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7:55 PM Jul 10