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Subwoofers do not bump [3000 Watts]
Topic Started: Jun 9 2015, 09:30 PM (2,548 Views)
GoingGranola
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ok thanks this helps alot I will improve guys I got this thanks to you guys
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evmetro


The subs belong in a box that is specifically matched to that sub. The instructions for your subs will specify how many cubic feet of air space for each sub, and if the sub is meant to be in a sealed or ported box. If you use more than one sub on a channel, they need to be identical for series or parallel, and the ohms should match what your amp calls for.
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arudlang
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Andrew

I didn't see any details on your subs. No offense meant here but the fact that you have a $100 amp and two different subs sounds like they are probably very cheap subs or used, or both. Am I right? Cheap doesn't always mean bad I used to run el-cheapo lanzar amps and subs that would nearly blow the glass out of the buggy for less than $200 and I was happy as could be but it is possible your subs do not have very good range can can't get down to the low HZ OR perhaps there is a crossover built into the amp that is set too high not passing on anything below 80 HZ or something? I'm just trying to throw out other possibilities on limited information. My first suspect would be the enclosure as others have said its absolutely critical but other possibilities too. 22 gauge is too small for wiring to the subs hard to push amperage down such thin wire and you need amps flowing to get those woofers articulating.

If the subs are visually working their asses off but you don't hear anything, then the enclosure is probably not right.
If the subs are hardly articulating at full power then the amp is not delivering or improper crossover setup or too small a wire or a combination of those factors.

If you have a friend with subs that bump well tell him to cruise over for a visit, hook up your amp see if it makes his move like they should and hook his amp to your box and try that as well, that will narrow down the problem fast. Easy to do if you back the vehicles up to each other and have a big spool of thick wire to make the connections back and forth.

Just throwing out ideas I am no professional and there are people here with a lot better knowledge than me but I have successfully built some systems that push the limits on the flexibility of glass windows even when building on a budget or with cheaper or used equipment.
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evmetro


arudlang
Jun 10 2015, 02:59 PM
22 gauge is too small for wiring to the subs hard to push amperage down such thin wire and you need amps flowing to get those woofers articulating.

Very good point. A system that really hits will have big wire to the subs, big wire from the battery to the amp, big wire from the battery to the chassis, and big wire from the amp to the chassis. Nice solid connections everywhere. I like to use 14 gauge or bigger for subs and I usually run 0 gauge into the car from the battery to a distribution block where my amps are. That way, I can run the 4 or 8 gauge wiring as needed from the distribution block to whatever amps I am running.

Speaking of wire, it is very important to observe the correct polarity on your speaker wire connections. If you don't have each + and - connection matched on both ends, it will sound very weak and crappy. We call this "out of phase", and it is a common mistake for people to make if they are new to car audio.

Edited by evmetro, Jun 10 2015, 04:20 PM.
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banginmetro64
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OP, take advice from one member and follow what that member suggests. too many cooks in the kitchen in car audio will lead to disaster. i do tech support for a major car audio manufacturer and hear things like this every day. over 15 years in the industry and this is all to common with newb car audio people and their installs.
Edited by banginmetro64, Jun 10 2015, 06:28 PM.
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GoingGranola
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edit just bought these for 40 hopefully that will fix that impedance/running different subs problem and when I install them I will make sure they are the correct polarity

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/ele/5057173880.html

side note is this what I can expect if I blow these shitty subs?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckDstcBx3Ak
Edited by GoingGranola, Jun 10 2015, 07:28 PM.
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evmetro


Lol, that video was hilarious! 115 volts x at least 15 amps is about 1700 watts...
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RONNIEREDLINE
METRO MAD MAN

hmmm i thought i mentioned a thing about 22 gauge wire alot earlier in this thread ?? :hmm
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GoingGranola
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Ok guys hook up these identical jbl subs 8 ohm in series and they don't move at all. I think it is the amp or the wire which is 18 not 22 awg
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

new pro subs have to be broken in the get the correct movement from the spiders and surrounds.

my old buddy, wagon, was breaking in some kove armageddon 15" subs one time while i was working on my car about 20 feet away. he burped them using 120 vac from a switched outlet strip with a 15 amp circuit breaker. the cones moved pretty much at full excursion, 60 cycles per second for about 60 seconds before the breaker tripped. he did it about 10 times.

i was outside, 20 feet away and the subs pushed so much air that my pant legs flapped around my ankles. ;)
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GoingGranola
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Nice trag. The guy sold me a dead sub :l serves me right for not bringing my DMM but he won't take them back. That's why they were not moving at all because they were in series. I'm right now 700 buying an sws 1242D For 30 bucks to match my existing one and hopefully it will sound good. I think it's the 3000 boss amp not making the subs push and pull like I want to. Ie move my pants from 10 feet away. Returning the amp and going to 3xperiment with a higher quality certified rms amp like these guys say
Edited by GoingGranola, Jun 14 2015, 07:01 AM.
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Peenutzz
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Have you tried adjusting the crossover? Did you even put it on Low Pass?
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lnardozi
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Get those cheap flat extension cords and cut them up for speaker wire. You got to have #14awg or thicker wire for hi power applications.
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crazyndn
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Get some pics of your setup and model numbers/brands of your gear.
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